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Persian Cyclamen

Cyclamen Persicum PERSIAN sowbread is not often put to the use the name suggests for it, but if the pigs had access to the florist's treasures, they would no doubt appreciate the flavour of the round corms or bulbous roots of the cyclamens. It would be a veritable case of casting pearls before swine to permit the experiment, and it is more agreeable to confine our attention to the flowers and give no further thought to the possibility of converting the roots into mild pork. Although introduced at least as early as the middle of the eighteenth century, this must be regarded as quite a modern plant, for its proper cultivation may be spoken of as a recent discovery. It was the settled custom of gardeners to give the plant careful frame cultivation until it flowered, and then to "dry it off" and neglect it for some months, when it was again taken care of, in due time flowering again, unless, as often happened, it died through being forgotten. The consequence of this treatment was that its beauties were never fully developed, and there is some evidence of the poor state of the plant in the figure of it that appears in the Botanical Magazine in the year 1788 (t.44). When the right way to cultivate the plant was discovered, a wonderful change took place; the flowers were enlarged in size, they became richer and more various in colour, more deliciously fragrant, and their profusion became a matter of astonishment. It is quite a common event to see Persian cyclamens with from fifty to a hundred flowers, all fresh and perfect, and we once saw a plant that must have had at least five hundred blossoms; it was presented at a meeting of the Floral Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society by Mr. Wiggins, on the 12th of February, 1884. That plant was at least seven years old, with a corm nearly as large as a baby's head. To grow such a plant is not exactly an easy task, but we shall describe the routine, and it will be at the discretion of the amateur to follow it, whether for the production of neat little plants or for giants of high renown.

It is of the utmost importance to begin with good seed. The best time to sow it is as soon as it is ripe, which will be in June or July. Sow in pans filled with a mixture of equal parts peat, loam, and leaf-mould, with silver sand added to cause the mixture to feel gritty between the fingers. The compost must be well chopped up and mixed, but must not be sifted; and the seed must be very lightly covered. A temperature of 75 degree Fahr. is required to get the seed up nicely, and a cucumber house is the best place for the seed-pans because of the atmospheric humidity.

When the young plants appear the pans should be removed to a cooler position where there is abundant light and air. The little plants will grow freely if regularly watered and protected against any sudden changes or extreme conditions. Be careful not to give too much water, for that will render the soil sour, and put a stop to healthy growth altogether. As autumn approaches the growth will cease, but the plants must be kept under glass in a frame or greenhouse, and they ought never to be in a lower temperature than 40 degree Fahr., even when quite at rest.

In October or November take out the little corms and pot them separately in small pots, using the same kind of compost as before. Now put them in a warm house, and they will soon begin to grow again, a temperature of 55 degree to 60 degree Fahr. being most suitable for them. They must be kept near the glass and have air at all favourable opportunities. Thus they will pass the winter, making a nice growth, and as spring advances they will go to rest. From the end of April until the end of August a cold frame in a somewhat shady situation will suit them better than a house, but care must be taken to protect them from cold winds and from all extreme conditions. At the end of August they must be shifted into pots of five or six inches diameter. They should never have larger pots than they are likely to fill with roots pretty quickly, for if the soil become sour the plants will not thrive. For this potting prepare a compost of equal parts turfy loam, fibrous peat, and fresh dry horse droppings, with sufficient silver sand to lighten the mixture. A half part of sand will probably be needed. Replace in the cold frame and let them remain there about a month, and then transfer to the greenhouse. A temperature of 50 degree Fahr. will suit them well; let them be near the glass, and give air at every favourable opportunity. They will flower grandly and compensate you for your trouble.

When the flowering is over let them go to rest, but do not distress them in any way, and take care they never become dust dry. When they have rested about a month repot them, and take care in doing so to remove all the old soil without doing any injury to the roots. When you have acquired some experience you may assist the bloom with liquid manure; but a beginner should not venture on this course, for the cyclamen is not a gross feeder, and a good bloom may be secured without the aid of any stimulant.