Familiar Garden Flowers

Two hundred garden flowers, each with F. Edward Hulme's hand-drawn colour plate and Shirley Hibberd's essay — five series of the best-loved flower book of the Victorian garden, complete.

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Polyanthus Narciss

Narcissus tazetta.

ONE of the smaller shadows that fall upon the garden of daffodils is the fact that the polyanthus narciss is not quite hardy enough for association with the trumpet, the incomparable, and the poet's narciss. These are all so hardy that it is quite a rare occurrence for frost to touch them; but the polyanthus or tazetta section are often crippled when just ready to bloom, and are, therefore, not to be depended on as border flowers, save in the very favourable climates of the southern and western counties. There they are safe enough, and any good soil will suit them; but they require a somewhat shaded situation, for strong sunshine distresses their somewhat succulent leafage at the time when the flowers are being formed in the bulb for the next year. Even in London, however, the tazettas may be grown with success during a series of years, provided the winters are neither late nor particularly severe. We have seen them on our heavy land on the northern side of the metropolis doing well for half a dozen years in succession. Then came a terrible winter, and many were killed, and the survivors flowered poorly, or did not flower at all. It happens fortunately that as these daffodils require pot culture to be quite safe, so they are particularly well adapted for pot culture, and amongst the most valuable of our early conservatory flowers. And as the jonquil narciss is equally worthy of pot culture, a few remarks on the management of these two flowers may prove useful.

Honesty
Honesty

The bulbs should be potted as soon as they can be obtained, and the time of flowering of any or all can be in great part determined by the cultivator, who will regulate the treatment in accordance with his requirements. All bulbs should have as long a season as can be allowed for them to make roots and prepare for flowering; and if they are wanted to flower late, they must be kept cool, so that the top growth will be retarded. Prepare for the business a compost, consisting of turfy loam three parts, leaf-mould or rotten or rotten dung (or both) one part, and sharp sand one part. The pots should be clean within and without; if new, all the better. For all general purposes 6-inch pots are to be preferred; in these place three bulbs of tazettas, or four of jonquils. If 8-inch pots are used, put in them five bulbs of tazettas, or eight of jonquils. The pots must be crocked with care to insure perfect drainage; the soil must be slightly pressed to make it firm, and the bulbs should be covered with just enough soil to hide them from view, but with their necks visible, say, for an inch or less. When potted, pack the pots together on a hard pavement in a sheltered but cool place, and cover them two or three inches deep with cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or with coal ashes, or with sand. If they are to be forced, you will be compelled to take them out in time to be in flower when wanted, but if they are to be flowered in a cool conservatory in their own time, you must see that they do not make any great amount of top growth in the plunge bed. As soon as any begin to peep through, remove the material with which they are covered, and put them into a frame or very cool house. If in a frame, shade with mats or canvas for a few days; if in a house, put them on the floor. The object in exposing them to a very subdued light is to assist the healthy colouring of the blanched portions without undue haste; but as the plants acquire a healthy green colour the shading must be removed, and they must be placed near the glass.

It now rests with the cultivator, to a great extent, to have a succession of flowers, or to have all in flower at once, or nearly so. When we talk of forcing, we usually make a distinction between that and forwarding, for all culture of hardy plants under glass consists in forwarding, even when no heat is employed. It should be understood, then, to prevent disappointment, that the tazettas and jonquils bloom in the most satisfactory manner when they are simply forwarded, and not forced. In fact, the Paper White Narciss and the Roman Narciss are the only two kinds that force well, no matter how skilful the treatment may be; but all the kinds, including the hardiest of the trumpets and incomparables, may be forwarded in what may be called a "comfortable" temperature, without the heat of the stove or forcing-pit. Keep them safe from frost, give them water liberally, keep them near the glass, and they will give you less trouble to flower them well than would a pot of chickweed or pimpernel; and even these might be worth growing in pots under some circumstances. As a matter of fact, we have seen both these British weeds grown in pots and exhibited, and we have had to adjudicate officially on their merits.

In the selection of varieties, the following should have first consideration amongst the thirty or more tazettas that are in cultivation:--Bathurst, primrose, with orange cup; Bazelman major, white, with yellow cup; Grand Monarque, white, with citron cup; Groot Vorst, white, with citron cup; Jaune Supreme, pure yellow; Paper White, pure white, very early; Sulphurine, sulphur, light yellow cup; Roman, double white, orange cup; White Pearl, pure white, primrose cup.

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