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The Planting, Feeding, and Mulching of Roses
Where winters are not of extreme severity roses may be planted in the autumn, but in most localities spring planting is by far the safer course. The beds should be prepared if possible in the autumn, in order that planting may be done early, as late spring planting usually means a serious check to the growth of the plants.
Planting Planting distances depend largely upon the type of rose. Hybrid Perpetuals, which are of vigorous growth, are usually spaced two feet by three feet. Tea roses and Hybrid Teas are ordinarily given eighteen inches by two feet, or two feet by two feet. When planting, a hole of ample size should be dug, as it is most important that the roots should be spread out carefully. All injured or broken roots should be pruned away, making a clean, slanting cut. The soil should be firmed well about the plant. Loose, careless planting is the cause of many failures, and properly firmed soil is one of the essentials of success. Watering should be done immediately after planting and the roses should not be allowed to dry out until they have become well established. Severe pruning is necessary at the time of planting. Most shoots should be cut back to two eyes. If some buds have started, due to delay in shipment, it is best to prune back to those still dormant.
Feeding Roses, though delicate and ethereal, are notoriously rank feeders and will respond most heartily to any special attentions lavished upon them. It is essential that rose beds should be well prepared in the beginning and that liberal quantities of well-rotted manure and compost should be used. No matter how thorough this preparation has been, however, it is wise, as the seasons pass, to add fertilizers in order that the soil may not become depleted. An application of bone meal should be spread over the surface of the bed in spring after growth has begun and should be worked in well with the first cultivation.
Later in the season a few applications of liquid manure should be given. This should be applied while the buds are beginning to form. In feeding with liquid manure it must be remembered that the soil should be moist at the time the application is made or serious injury may result. A solution of dried blood may be used instead of the liquid manure if it is more easily available. Mulching Extensive experiments have been carried out during the past few years to ascertain the value of mulching roses during the summer months. It has been found that a mulch serves several purposes. Perhaps the most important point in its favor is that a mulch helps to retain the moisture in the beds by protecting the surface soil from direct sunlight. This is of great benefit throughout the season and particularly during a period of drought. The mulch also reduces the actual temperature of the soil, keeping it cool during the hot days of midsummer, which is a point of great advantage to the rose-grower. It has been found that rosebushes when mulched hold their blooms longer than when unmulched. Another point of importance in the minds of many gardeners is that a mulch lessens the labor of cultivation and weeding. Peat moss, finely ground, has been found to be one of the best materials for mulching. It may be obtained from almost any nursery and is inexpensive and easy to handle. It gives the beds a tidy and attractive appearance and is altogether satisfactory. The moss should be put on at about the time the flower buds begin to form unless the ground is unusually damp and cold. A layer of four to six inches is sufficient. It is advisable to wet the moss thoroughly before putting it on the beds and it should be tamped firmly into place.
Lawn clippings are sometimes used as a mulch for rose beds and are fairly satisfactory. They do not, however, serve the purpose so effectively as the peat moss.