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Same Rose as Fig. 29 Properly Pruned

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F دو shoot of "E." "E" in Fig. 29 should be cut to the fourth bud on the outside, and this is shown in Fig. 30. "F" is undoubtedly the strongest cane and on its whole length the young shoots have started vigorous spring growth. Cut "F" to five eyes as in Fig. 30. Had this plant (Fig. 29) been pruned in the early spring the dormant buds on "A" and the lower buds on "B" and "C" would have been forced into growth, but as the stems were left long, the sap went to the top of these weaker-growing canes. If cane "F" had been somewhat larger, and "B," "C," and "E" had been as small as or smaller canes than "A," the plant would have been too one-sided and it would have been necessary to have cut "F" back, certainly to the third bud, which is on the outside, possibly to its lower bud to equalize the growth; but in this instance the three remaining canes in the center, "B," "C," and "E," are nearly as large as "F," and the cane "A" by being cut back to its second eye should throw out strong growths, as the two buds remaining will secure all of the sap of this stalk.

These instructions are given for general work to secure the greatest number of fine blooms. Naturally, if a person wishes exhibition blooms, and is willing to be satisfied with only a few of these, after growth has started and the shoots have broken, he should again go carefully over his plants and cut out all weak growths, keeping only the most promising shoots of the most vigorous canes. It will generally be necessary, in order to secure this result, to cut back to two shoots, but with a particularly vigorous and promising growth leave more, in which case, however, cut off the weaker growths belowin other words, following out the first theory, the fewer buds the more sap to each.

The English custom for exhibition varieties, as a general rule, is to wait until the flowers have been formed and then to cut out such growths as are not required, mainly because they are not promising, and to allow all the vitality contained in the sap to go to the blooms which are left. Such blooms, receiving all the nourishment, tend to be larger and more perfect than the average flowers. However, they do not surpass the average bloom recommended to any marked degree, and they cut down the number of flowers so greatly that they are not worth the sacrifice they entail except for exhibition purposes. The bush should be carefully and thoroughly pruned according to the rules given above, an additional and very necessary point being that the cut ought to be made not less than one-quarter of an inch above the bud and not more than one-half of an inch from it. The cut should not be straight across, that is, parallel with the ground, but should be slanting. This will keep the water from rotting out the wood too quickly before the bud starts and the shoots are established. The cut should be clean. An ordinary pair of gardening pruning shears is the best implement for this work. These shears must be kept sharp, otherwise they leave rough edges and bruise the bark, which then will not heal.

The most comfortable way in which to prune is to have a heavy square of carpet placed on the ground on which one may either sit or kneel. It is impossible to do any great amount of pruning unless some such method is used; to keep the dampness from coming through the carpet should be doubled over at least once. Persons having trouble with their eyes should be very careful to use their glasses in this work, as more minute attention is required than one would think. The foregoing suggestions apply mainly to a large amount of pruning, but even where the plants are few it would perhaps be best to employ this method, as the operation would certainly be much more comfortable. In all pruning a pair of heavy gloves will be found a necessary protection.

In the autumn the only pruning necessary is to cut down the bushes so that the fibrous feeding roots will not be broken by the thrashing about of the tops in the heavy winter winds. It is quite easy to cut down to an approximate height until the early spring pruning, and when the plants have done blooming and the frost has set in severely cut to an approximate height of one foot and a half, except in strongest growing kinds and climbers. Do not cut to less. The buds liable to break are upper buds, and if forced in a warm, late autumn or early spring, after breaking they will certainly winter kill. If left short there are not enough buds remaining below to carry out the scheme of pruning; if left longer, no harm is done.

Under pruning it is well to include the cutting of the bloom. This is a part of rose culture which is usually neither considered nor understood. It is not easy to regulate by actual rule but if the principle is understood the proper cutting of roses is a very easy matter. In this, as in spring pruning, the method to be employed depends entirely upon what is desired. Cutting off the blooms insures more.

If they are not cut new growth will not start so quickly. For this reason it is advisable to pinch off any blooms which may have been left on the plants.

This should be particularly noted with all bedding varieties which are kept for garden decoration and are not usually cut. If a stem is left and the seed pod forms it takes the greater part of the nourishment on any shoot, the sap going to the top as has been previously noted. Nature thus provides for the greatest amount of sustenance going to the seed pod. By autumn, if blooms are not cut but pinched, the plant is more bushy and has perhaps somewhat better foliage. In the cutting of the stems be careful to leave enough buds below the cut on the shoot to provide other shoots, which will later in the season give more blooms. On the stronger varieties in the June blooming season, on a Hybrid Tea rose or a rose which is expected to bloom again, leave enough buds to give shoots for summer and for autumn bloom. Therefore, in such cuttings leave never less than two buds at the base of the shoot, and with very strong varieties three buds, always seeing that the bud is a strong one. If a long stem is left on the plant more flowers will be produced but they will not be on such stalwart stems, nor will they produce as fine blooms. If cutting from a Hybrid Perpetual, or from a rose from which no more bloom is expected, to cut to one bud will be sufficient. In this cutting of blooms, the same as in pruning, follow the well-known theory that on a weak growth you can cut farther back than on a strong growth. If, however, the plant is uneven in growth, care must be used to aid the spring pruning of such a plant by following out the work already started and cutting back harder on the stronger side. Approximately on an average growth leave, as above stated, two buds on the constantly blooming varieties. In late fall cutting it will be unnecessary to leave any buds below the cut as there will be no more bloom after frost. In the weak kinds, the frail, drooping stems are not needed on the bloom, but they should not remain on the plant; therefore cut harder on the weak growths and afterwards reduce the length of the stem. Unless the plant is hybridized or the seed is desired, the seed pods or heps are not needed, and if twice a week all old blooms are cut from the plants, the beds will be in better order and more flowers will be secured thereafter.

Spring pruning as given here applies to roses after the first year. For the first year they should all be cut back to three eyes on good wood and one eye on weak wood. This gives the young, unestablished roots less work to do and provides more time for them to prepare for the following year.

In pruning varieties not mentioned in the lists the main work to be done is always to cut out all the dead wood. This, of course, also applies to the lists.