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Wall Gardening: Seeding

When the planting of steps or walls is not done while the work of construction is in progress much smaller plants must be selected for use as it will be quite impossible to insert those possessing large root [106] systems satisfactorily. Seeding is an excellent method of planting walls already built and is invaluable in the case of transforming old masonry walls for wall gardening purposes. In this case the cement that is used to bind the wall together may be knocked out wherever it is possible to do so without endangering the stability of the structure. It is not often possible to obtain crevices sufficiently large for the planting of anything but seeds; here and there, however, upon careful examination one may find an opportunity for removing a stone or brick, thus offering an opportunity for the use of established plants. Generally speaking, however, seeding is the best means of treating such a structure. A mixture of sandy soil and chopped florist's or sphagnum moss is made. Leaf mold may be substituted for moss if desired. Into this medium sow the seeds lightly, moisten the whole enough for the seeds to adhere to the soil. Pieces of this mixture are then rammed securely into the crevices and joints of the wall. Constant care as to watering is necessary to insure the success of this process until the seeds germinate and the little seedlings are strong enough to care for themselves. If practicable, it is very desirable to improvise some means for supplying partial shade, until sprouting takes place. Seeding outdoors may be done in spring, early enough for the [107] plants to become sufficiently established in their new quarters to be able to resist the midsummer heat. If a greenhouse be available for use the seeds may be started indoors during the month of February in shallow flats or bulb pans containing a layer of broken crockery in the bottom for drainage. The soil in which they are sown must be well pulverized and be made light and porous by the admixture of sand. The little plants will then be ready to be planted into the wall garden in May, or when the weather becomes settled and warm.

Propagation may also be accomplished by means of division of the old plants. As a rule this will be necessary only when the growth becomes too overcrowded and the bloom deteriorates, it will not usually be necessary to do this work more than every five years or so. When the plants are dug out for dividing purposes advantage may be taken of the empty spaces to renew the surface soil in the crevices as much as is practicable, resetting the divided plants immediately and keeping them watered until growth commences.

A rock garden differs from a wall garden in that it is an arrangement of rocks, large or small, in such a manner as to reproduce nature in its wildest form.

Rockwork is, therefore, only appropriate in such [108] A situations as are adapted to wild gardening of an informal character. Wall gardening on the other hand is most suitable in formal surroundings and is often well introduced into symmetrical gardens formal in design. It differs from a rock garden in being admittedly an artificial structure. All trace of the artificial must be concealed in the making of a successful rock garden and the arrangement of rocks must be such as to appear as if nature, and not man, had been their distributor.

Undulating, irregular, rugged ground is most suitable for use in order to impart to the work that element of nature which is so essential for success. It may be advisable to make the irregularity of the ground still greater in order to further accentuate that variety of outline which is so necessary.

Dwarf shrubs can often be used advantageously in softening the crude outlines of the rockery and for supplying variety of height and line which affords relief from the monotony of large groupings of lowgrowing rock plants or alpines. Abelias, andromedas, azaleas, dwarf rhododendrons and some of the evergreens are among those useful for this purpose. The junipers, varieties tamariscefolia and Sabina prostrata, are excellent choices to make. The same kind of rocks must be used throughout the structure [109] and, as in wall gardening, all must lie upon their flattest surface. Here and there allow the rocks to protrude boldly out of the ground, while near by, others may be imbedded into the soil so as to add to the natural appearance of the work, and to convey the idea of a rock foundation and rugged stony ground below. Whatever the method adapted in the arrangement of the rocks, the all important factor for success is a careful imitation of nature. Stability here, as in wall gardening, is an absolute essential.

Sometimes a small rock garden can be introduced into level ground and still be made to appear natural and prove to be a spot of interest and beauty. In this case ample artificial drainage must be supplied as the majority of rock plants are especially intolerant of poorly drained situations. Where the spaces between the rocks are sufficiently large it will be best to first place them in the solid ground and then to excavate the intervening spaces, to a depth of 3 feet. This depth is necessary in order to have ample room for drainage. In the bottom, place a layer of some rough material to a depth of 10 inches, next fill in with good soil, rich but sufficiently light in texture to prevent it from becoming caky. Care must be taken to ram the soil thoroughly all around and between the rocks so that no cavities will be left which would cause [110] Courtesy of J. Horace McFarland Company A ROCK GARDEN ON LEVEL GROUND SUCCESSFULLY PLANNED