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Winter Protection and Mulching: Rhododendrons

RHODODENDRONS-WINTER PROTECTION OF. Rhododendrons, other broad-leaved evergreens and, to a certain extent, all other evergreens, are apt to be scalded in winter by the morning sun shining through the coating of ice or snow upon the leaves, unless they are summer. shielded. They should be mulched also during both winter and The mulching of rhododendrons for summer is done for the purpose of providing a thin layer of leaf mold which will produce as nearly as possible the natural conditions of the undisturbed soil in the woods and fields where rhododendrons grow. Mulching for winter protection is effected by banking the plants with a deep layer of leaves. These leaves prevent excessive freezing and possible heaving of the soil around the roots. Rhododendrons are further protected by building a screen of evergreen boughs or of cornstalks entirely around the plantation, but especially on the exposed side. A portion of the leaves used in the winter mulch can be left when the mulch is removed in the spring. Under no conditions should an attempt be made to spade this mulch of leaves into the ground in the spring. It may be loosened slightly with a fork, but because this plant has its roots so near the surface the ground around the roots, below the natural surface, should not be disturbed.

TREES AND SHRUBS-WINTER PROTECTION OF. When mulching trees care should be taken to extend the mulch out as far as the roots extend, or at least as far as the ends of the branches extend. Most of the Japanese flowering peaches, cherries, etc., need a four-inch root mulch every winter in severe climates. Boxbushes, many other evergreens, and some deciduous material should be tied in winter. This is done to keep the plant from splitting under the weight of the heavy snows. Bands of rye straw or burlap are better than string for tying. Shrubs and trees when planted in groups or plantations, being thus close together, will protect each other to a considerable extent. When plants are of doubtful hardiness, screens may be erected for protection on the most exposed sides, or completely surrounding the plants. Such screens may be made of poles to which is attached brush or burlap. Another method is to make a screen of boards. Screens are frequently used to protect evergreens, trees, and shrubs. A shed without sides also may be constructed over such plantings. This is done to avoid loss by drip from buildings, or breakage from the weight Shrubs may be wrapped with straw or burlap, the covering being bound with raffia or twine. A pole is usually placed inside the wrapping to prevent the plant from bending or breaking. It is preferable, however, to plant more hardy types of material, because screens are extremely unsightly unless the plants are in an obscure location. of snow.

LAWNS-MULCHING OF. After the first year it is generally not necessary to protect lawns in winter. If a mulch is desired use straw or well-rotted manure old enough so that there is no danger from weed seeds. In the spring the coarse manure should be removed and the finer portions pressed in with a heavy roller. Heavy, coarse manure is apt to suffocate the growing grass and leave bare spots on the lawn. GENERAL CONDITIONS. Fall-planted material, especially perennials, and in the heavier soils, should be well protected during the first winter with a mulch of strawy manure or hardwood leaves. Compact or fresh manures should be avoided. Fresh manures, free from straw, will burn the plants, and compact manures will cause decay and fermentation, due to lack of aeration. A good strawy manure should be used. In the spring the litter may be removed, and the finer portions of the mulch spaded into the beds. When leaves are used, provision must be made to prevent them from blowing away. Boards, branches, or wire netting can be used for this purpose. Mulching, applied very early, may be harmful by reason of encouraging late root action and top growth. Therefore, it is always advisable to delay root mulching until, after several light freezes, a crust has formed on the ground. Evergreen boughs, when procurable, make an excellent protective covering. After a dry fall most plants, except some perennials, are benefited by being thoroughly soaked with water before freezing weather occurs. This is especially true of conifers and broadleaved evergreens. Cultivation in shrub and perennial beds can be stopped as soon as danger from weeds maturing their seeds is over. This will furnish some protection and will also discourage late growth of plants.