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The Shady Garden: Aspidium

Varieties. Aspidium Acrostichoides, Aspidium Cristatum (will grow in moist situations), Aspidium Marginale. These three varieties mentioned above are evergreen. The hardy Maidenhair (adiantum pedatum) likes good drainage and ample leaf mold, and differs from most ferns in liking to be planted a half inch or so below the surface. The Osmunda Cinnamonea, Regalis and Claytonia varieties are effective tall-growing kinds. A pretty, rather low-growing variety is the Dicksonia Punictilobula, which grows about 18 inches high.

Convallaria Majalis, Lily-of-the-Valley. Liliesof-the-Valley require no introduction, their dainty, [94] fragrant flowers of pure white that come in early May have found their way into the hearts of most flower lovers. They grow in sun and shade, but prefer a northern exposure. A rich, light soil containing plenty of leaf mold suits them best. Plant clumps one foot apart and cover their tops with about an inch of soil. This work should be done in late fall. Each autumn a top dressing of rotted cow manure helps greatly to maintain the vigor of the plants. Otherwise they may be left undisturbed until the growth becomes too thick and the bloom deteriorates in quantity. When this occurs it is necessary to remake the bed, freshening up the old soil by additions of new leaf mold, or rotted manure and dividing the old plants into small clumps and resetting. This work is best done during November, in this locality.

Lilies. Hardy lilies are numbered among the choicest inhabitants of the garden and great is the annual disappointment of many garden owners by the failure of these beautiful and stately plants to respond to the care that is lavished upon them. There are, however, a number of very fine lilies that are of easy culture provided one is willing to meet their requirements.

The following are among the most reliable varieties. The tiger lily, or L. Tigrinum, is easily grown, being very hardy and standing much neglect. The Cand [95] dum or Annunciation lily that blooms in late June is perhaps the most widely planted variety. Of great beauty is the handsome Auratum or gold-banded lily of Japan which blooms in August. Mr. Ernest H.

Wilson in his delightful book, "Aristocrats of the Garden," tells us that he found this lily growing wild in "the volcanic ash and detritus which forms the slopes of sacred and sublime Mount Fuji." Other varieties which might be included are the Superbum, Regale, Henryi and Speciosum lilies; this latter kind comes in shades of white, red and pink and its blooming season is August and early September. The lilium Canadense is excellent for naturalizing in moist situations; its blooming season is July.

The important cultural requirements may be summed up under the following headings: 1. Good drainage, in soils that are light and porous and contain ample leaf mold. 2. Early fall planting. 3. First-class bulbs purchased from a reliable source. A good bulb is not necessarily a large one, but one that is solid throughout, rather than soft and flabby. 4. A light winter protection of leaves or strawy manure, applied in late fall. 5. Every five years or so it will be necessary to divide the bulbs and freshen up the bed with new soil [96] and leaf mold. This work is best done after the flowering season.

Let us now consider these various requirements separately. First of all, to prepare the soil excavate the bed to a depth of 18 inches or two feet; place a layer of coarse material in the bottom for drainage and fill it up with top soil, leaf mold and sand. Early fall planting is best for all lilies, but especially necessary for the Candidum, Canadense and Superbum varieties. The other varieties mentioned here are stem rooting, which means that in the spring roots are emitted from the underground stem. Deep planting is, therefore, especially necessary for this class of lilies in order to encourage the formation of a deep-root system that will be of benefit in absorbing the elements of fertility from the soil. Early spring planting can be done with this class of bulbs but, generally speaking, if they arrive too late in the autumn for outdoor planting, a better method lies in potting them up singly and in keeping them in a sufficiently cool place through winter to prevent the formation of top growth. If this is done, by the time the planting out season arrives in spring the pots will be filled with roots fully able to support the top growth which will soon follow. In planting the bulbs in the garden, dig holes to receive them that are twice the depth of the bulb and [97] in the bottom throw a handful of builder's sand, into this place the blub, and lightly sprinkle it with flowers of sulphur, then cover it with another handful of sand in order to insure perfect drainage around the bulb itself, then fill in with soil, gently firming it around the bulb.

In this climate lilies require a light winter protection applied after the ground is hard frozen, and when it is dry, in order to prevent heaving of the roots from alternate freezing and thawing.

Myosotis, Forget-Me-Nots. Myosotis are invaluable for early spring bloom, they are excellent for combining with pansies, in which case they should be planted immediately back of them as they are taller growing. It is best to renew the stock annually as better results are secured, and when this is done the plants can be discarded immediately after bloom and their space used for annuals that will continue the blooming season throughout the summer. The culture of myosotis is the same as for pansies, directions for which are given below.

Variety. Palustris Semperflorens is the best.

Pansies. The seed of pansies is best started in a shaded cold frame in early August. The seed germinates slowly and poorly and the protection of a frame insures a larger stand of seedlings than when started [98] in an open seed bed. As soon as the seedlings develop their true leaves they must be transplanted into frames containing very rich soil. Compost, leaf mold and well-rotted manure mixed together compose a good soil medium for the young plants. Plant about 6 inches apart each way, if space permits, as larger flowers result if ample room is allowed for the proper development of each plant; but if desired a closer planting can be made. Every care must be taken to encourage growth: partial shade supplied by means of lath screens or burlap bags thrown over the sash during the heat of the day is beneficial, and ample watering as well as frequent cultivation must be attended to with regularity as a checked growth will only result in disappointment the following spring. Should any flower buds appear they must be removed before they develop so as to conserve their energy for the formation of stocky plants ready for abundant bloom the following April.

After freezing weather mulch the soil between the plants with dry leaves, only covering their tops lightly. Further protection is given by covering the sash with blankets, corn fodder, or leaves weighted down with evergreen boughs, when the weather becomes severe.

In early spring gradually remove the protection and harden the plants by removing the sash a little longer [99] each day according to the weather. Planting outdoors is done in April, the exact time depending upon the season. Before planting begins the soil in blooming quarters should be enriched with ample leaf mold. The flowering season can be greatly prolonged by supplying ample moisture, cultivation and partial protection from the sun. Applications of sheep manure given every ten days or two weeks is of benefit both in prolonging the bloom and in increasing the size of the flowers. Pick the flowers frequently as this encourages bloom, "cut and come again" is true of pansies. The giant varieties produce large, handsome flowers. Always purchase the best seed, this pays in the end. [100]