Practical Flower Gardening

A trained horticulturist’s working handbook: what to plant, how to prepare the ground, and how to keep a flower garden going through the year without pretending it is effortless.

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The Shady Garden: Phlox

Anemone Pennsylvanica, Sanguinaria Canadensis, Aquilegia Canadensis, Phlox divaricata, Campanula rotundifolia, Claytonia Virginica, Hepatica, Wild Geranium, Lilium Philadelpicum, Lobelia Cardinalis, Aster: varieties corymbosus, cordifolia and patens, Dicentra Cucullaria (Dutchman's Breeches), Trilliums, Mertensia Virginica, Wild Oxalis, Violas, Thalictrum Anemonoides, Hepatica and hardy ferns in abundance, and intermingled with, the flowering plants. The presence of bowlders may be taken advantage [83] of, or they may be introduced here and there, and placed in such a way as to produce a natural effect. Clumps of ferns and flowering plants may be planted at their base, their pockets filled with leaf mold from the woods, and planted with any of the shade-loving rock plants mentioned in the above list.

Let us now consider the problem of the garden in partial shade: in such situations the choice of plant material is much more varied and includes many garden favorites. A satisfactory plan for continuous bloom for a garden so situated may be procured by the following planting.

Daffodils in all varieties and used in abundance usher in the spring season, pansies and forget-me-nots planted directly back of the pansies, and used as a border for the garden will bloom with the daffodils and make a most attractive combination. Then, too, their blooming season in partial shade is longer than when planted in full sun, as they like a cool moist soil, and protection from the burning sun which causes them to cease blooming. Phlox divaricata, Dicentra spectabilis, Aquilegia, Digitalis, and the early blooming Phlox variety, Miss Lingard, all come in quick succession, and may be followed by the lovely Hemerocallis varieties, flava and fulva, combined in order to extend their blooming season into July when the perennial [84] phlox will arrive in full glory. All kinds of hardy phlox will succeed in partial shade; varieties Elizabeth Campbell and Europa are excellent choices to make.

Plantings of heliotrope, nicotianas and petunias will help greatly in maintaining the midsummer bloom and to bridge over the gap between the end of the phlox season, and the beginning of the Eupatorium bloom which arrives in September. Japanese Anemones will follow and extend the season well into October, which is the best one may hope for in partial shade, as the Chrysanthemum, which is the mainstay of the garden during October and November, prefers a sunny spot in order to appear at its best. However, the writer has seen them blooming in the shade quite well, so they might be tried if desired, but not counted upon to do their best. Another handsome perennial which might be tried but not counted upon is the delphinium. Where space permits the use of a wider assortment of plants the following may be included: Veronica Spicata, Astilbe, Funkia, Dictamnus, Peonies, Thalictrum, Rudbeckia, Begonia, hardy Primula Aconitum, Anchusa, (variety Dropmore) and Lilies, with the exception of the L. Candidum, which cannot stand much shade and does best in full sun. A bed of ferns with hardy lilies peeping up amongst them is both dainty and cool looking, especially when planted against a [85] background of evergreens or deciduous trees. The blooming season of the lilies can be prolonged by a careful selection of varieties. The bed may be edged with heliotrope, or a rubble border with rock plants planted in among and growing over the stones, is an attractive finish to the lily bed.

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