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Auricula (Primula Auricula This)

(Primula Auricula). This favourite spring flower was, at one time, almost universally cultivated, but has of late years fallen into much neglect; it is now, however, happily regaining enthusiastic admirers. Although its culture is not nearly so difficult as is generally understood, a few special items of treatment are nevertheless necessary to grow it successfully. Frames for the reception of Auriculas should be prepared, with a good bottom drainage, and an inside staging, similar to the back stage of a lean-to greenhouse, arranged as near the glass as possible. If the frames are about 4ft. wide, they will be very convenient; 1ft. deep in the front, and about 3ft. at the back. This will allow for a good stage arrangement. Of course, it is not necessary to construct an expensive staging, as common boards can be laid upon pots of various heights, the same results being practically secured. These frames should face north from May to October, and south in winter, during which latter time it will be necessary to well cover the sides with straw or brake. When frosty, the lights must also be mated; but, unless there is absolute fear of frost, the glass should not be covered, as the more light the plants receive the better. On all suitable occasions, both during summer and winter, air must be freely admitted, and a good look-out kept during showery weather; hence it may be necessary to tilt the lights with blocks rather than remove them entirely. The latter plan should be adopted whenever practicable, especially during early spring, and after they are well established in their fresh pots in summer. This will greatly assist to ripen the crown, and produce hard, stout foliage, which will endure the winter much better than if grown with less air. Many cultivators prefer small span or lean-to houses to frames; and it must be admitted that these are better, more convenient, and in every way more beneficial. Simple, inexpensive structures, no higher than is absolutely necessary for convenience, with top and side ventilation, will meet all requirements; and if a 2in. hot-water pipe is arranged next the eaves inside, it will be a decided advantage during very severe weather.

Soil. The best compost that can be prepared for Auriculas is as follows: Four parts good fibrous loam, one part well-rotted cow manure, one part good leaf soil, and one part ??coarse river or silver sand, with a little charcoal or pounded oyster-shells added. Carefully mix the whole together before using. The loam should be stored about twelve months previons to being used, and it should be selected from districts with a fine atmosphere; the turf should be cut about 3in. thick. Cow manure that has lain for a year or so, and been subjected to sharp frosts, is most suitable, as insect life, which it very probably contains, is thereby destroyed, and the whole materially sweetened. Potting. This operation requires to be carefully done as soon after flowering as possible, unless it is desired to save seed, when it must be deferred until the seed is ripened. May and June are the best months for general potting, and whatever the size of the pots used, they should be carefully and thoroughly drained. After a good layer of potsherds, place some charcoal, leaf mould, or spent hops. Many good growers use the last very advantageously. For good flowering plants, 48-sized pots are used, many cultivators preferring glazed pots to the unglazed; but such are not absolutely necessary to ensure success. Before repotting, remove most of the old soil, and with a sharp knife cut off any bruised or cankered portion of roots; the stout tap-root may also be cut away if devoid of fresh rootlets. Do not pot very firmly. Remove the plants to their summer quarters, withholding water for a few days, and keep the frames close. About a week after potting, water may be advantageously given, the plants will then soon resume root-action, and air may be admitted afterwards on all suitable occasions. The collar or neck of the plant must be left well above the surface of the soil.

Watering is a point that requires careful attention, as neglect in this matter will result in failure. During the growing season, Auriculas require an abundance of water; in fact, they must never be allowed to get dry. In the winter, they must only be watered when they are really dry, especially during a severe season. Care must be taken to avoid watering the leaves, particularly in early spring, as this tends to spoil the effect of the charming farinose foliage. Above all, water must not be allowed to stand in the heart of the plant, as such will inevitably cause incipient decay. Hence it is necessary to keep a sharp lookout for drippings from the glass, and to maintain tightly-glazed frames. On all occasions, decaying leaves must be removed, and especially during winter.

Top-dressing. About the middle or end of February, when the plants commence new growth, the surface soil should be removed about an inch or so deep, and the pots re-filled with a rich compost made up of the following: Two parts of turfy loam, one of rotten cow or hen manure, and one of leaf soil; if a little Standen's Manure is added, the compost will be improved. After this top-dressing, the plants may be watered freely.

Propagation by Offsets. When top-dressing, any offsets with roots should be removed, and as soon after as possible the remaining ones should be taken off, as it is much more desirable to do so early than later on, when repotting; for, when making the first growth, they are the more likely to root better, and stand a greater chance of making good plants before the season is over. Fill well-drained 3in. pots with sandy soil, and arrange about four offsets round the sides; place under a bell glass, or in a close hand-light, watering very sparingly so as to prevent them damping off. They will soon establish themselves, after which air may be admitted, and the plants may ultimately be potted off singly. To induce choice varieties to make offsets, the top of the old plant should be removed and treated like the others, when, as a rule, several shoots will be produced, which in due time may be removed. By this means, a nice stock of the rarer kinds may be obtained; whereas, if such a course were not adopted, the rate of increase would be extremely slow. Flowering. During the flowering period, watering, as already stated, must be carefully attended to, for if the plants are allowed to get dry, the flowers will quickly shrivel. They must also be kept well shaded from sunshine, which quickly destroys the delicate blossoms. As the trusses are developing, particular attention must be given to night protection. It is, perhaps, better to cover every night than to run the risk of exposing the unexpanded flowers to frost, as the effect is very prejudicial; in fact, if subject to frost, smooth even flowers may not be expected.

Seed Saving and Sowing. The only way to obtain new varieties is by seed; hence the value of careful seed-saving will be apparent. Severe discrimination must be exercised in the selection of parents, and the flowers must be very carefully crossed. The anthers should be removed from the pistillate parent, if possible, before expansion, so as to prevent any possibility of self-fertilisation; and, when the stigma is ready, the pollen must be conveyed by means of a small camel's-hair brush, care being taken not to mistake the brushes used in different classes. It has been observed in Auriculas that the issue from crossbred seed favours the pollen more than the pistillate parent; hence the necessity of selecting good pollen parents. It is best to confine hybridisation to separate classes-i.e., cross a Self with a Self, and a Green-edged variety with another of the same class. The importance of selecting the best in each class scarcely needs suggestion, having regard to constitution as well as the quality of the flowers. The seed should be sown as soon as ripe, or early in March, in well-drained pots, filled with sandy soil, which must be well watered previous to sowing. When this operation is completed, the seed must be lightly covered with coarse sand, a sheet of glass placed over the pot, and the latter stood in the hand glass, where the offsets are rooted. Some of the seedlings will appear in a month, but the bulk from that sown when ripe will not be seen until the following spring; while others will germinate even during the ensuing summer. The late comers should be particularly cared for, as they frequently produce the best varieties. When the seedlings are large enough, they must be pricked off in pots of sandy soil; and, when well established, potted off singly into small thumb pots, and afterwards encouraged as judgment suggests. Some growers allow the seedlings to remain in the store pots till they flower, when the best are kept, and those not required disposed of.

Insect Pests. Green fly are often very troublesome, and should be exterminated as speedily as possible, by tobacco fumigation, or by dipping the plants in a solution of Gishurst's Compound, or carefully prepared Fir-tree Oil, all of which are effectual. Many authorities denounce fumigation, while others advocate it. The roots are also attacked by a mealy louse, named Trama auriculoe, which clusters about the roots and collar of the plants, sucking nutriment therefrom; and although, provided they do not attack the collar, they have no greatly prejudicial effect on the plant, yet it is desirable to exterminate them. The only effectual way of accomplishing this is to remove all soil, and thoroughly cleanse the roots and collar in a solution of soft soap, with a little Fir-tree Oil added. Of course, this is most easily managed when repotting; and, unless the plants are very badly infested, it would not be advisable to run the risk of root washing later in the year. Classes. Auriculas are now arranged in five classes, four of which constitute what are known as "show or stage Auriculas," while the other is known by the name of "Alpines." Each class is characterised by special points of distinction, which, in the opinion of the strict "florists" school, it is of the utmost importance to observe; and as there is room for systematists in this, as well as in any other branch of floriculture, we will follow the arrangement usually adopted, and described the distinguishing features of, and enumerate some of the best varieties in, each class, with their raisers' names attached:

Green-edged. Outer edge green, or but sparingly dusted with powder; next, a zone of colour known as the body colour, which varies, the darkest being most esteemed; both edges of this zone should be even, especially the inner one, but there are few flowers perfect in this respect. Next to the body-colour is the paste, which occupies the space between the inner circle of the latter and the throat, this should be pure and dense, with a distinctly circular outline at the throat; the throat and tube should be bright yellow. Of course, this ideal standard has not yet been reached, as there are supposed defects in all or some sections of the flowers at present known. Leading Varieties: ADMIRAL NAPIER (Campbell), ALDERMAN WISBEY (Headley), APOLLO (Beeston), CHAMPION (Page), COLONEL TAYLOR (Leigh), DUKE OF WELLINGTON (Dickson), FREEDOM (Booth), GENERAL NEILL (Traill), HIGHLAND BOY (Pollitt), IMPERATOR (Litton), LADY ANN WILBRAHAM (Oliver), LORD PALMERSTON (Campbell), LOVELY ANN (Oliver), LYCURGUS (Smith), PRINCE OF GREENS (Traill), PRINCE OF WALES (Ashton). Grey-edged. Edge heavily dusted with powder, so as almost to hide the normal green colour; other points same as the Green-edged varieties. Leading varieties: ALEXANDER MEIKLEJOHN (Kay), CHAS. E. BROWN (Headley), COMPLETE (Sykes), CONQUEROR OF EUROPE (Waterhouse), DR. HORNER (Read), F. D. HORNER (Simonite), GENERAL BOLIVAR (Smith), GEORGE LEVICK (Walker), GEORGE LIGHTBODY (Headley), JOHN WATERSTON (Cunningham), LANCASHIRE HERO (Lancashire), RICHARD HEADLEY (Lightbody), ROBERT TRAILL (Lightbody).

White-edged. Edge so heavily dusted with farina as to completely hide the green and give it a white appearance; the powder frequently as dense as on the past portion; other points like the first. Leading varieties; ACME (Read), ANNE SMITH (Smith), ARABELLA (Headley), BEAUTY (Traill), BRIGHT VENUS (Lee), CATHERINA (Summerscales), CONSERVATIVE (Douglas), COUNTESS OF WILTON (Cheetham), EARL GROSVENOR (Lee), FAVORITE (Taylor), FRANK SIMONITE (Simonite), GLORY (Taylor), JOHN SIMONITE (Walker), NE PLUS ULTRA (Smith), REGULAR (Ashworth), SMILING BEAUTY (Heap), SYLVIA (Douglas), TRUE BRITON (Hepworth).

Selfs. Tube bright yellow, and circular at the top; paste dense, pure, with an even edge; all the rest of the flower of one colour, without shades or edging; any colour holds good. Leading varieties: APOLLO (Hay), BLACKBIRD (Spalding), C. J. PERRY (Turner), DUKE OF ARGYLE (Campbell), FORMOSA (Smith), GARI-BALDI (Pohlman), HELEN LANCASTER (Pohlman), LORD OF LORNE (Campbell), MAZINNA (Pohlman), METEOR FLAG (Lightbody), METROPOLITAN (Spalding), MRS. DOUGLAS (Simonite), MRS. STURROCK (Martin), OTHELLO (Netherwood), PIZARRO (Campbell), TOPSY (Kaye).

Alpines. Centre golden yellow, or white, and destitute of powder; body colour various; edge one-coloured, shading off pale towards the margin. These are much hardier than any of the other classes, and will do well outside in most places. Leading varieties: A. F. BARRON (Turner), BEATRICE (Turner), BLACK PRINCE (Turner), BRONZE QUEEN (Turner), COLONEL SCOTT (Turner), DIADEM (Gorton), DUCHESS OF CONNAUGHT (Turner), EVENING STAR (Turner), GEORGE LIGHTBODY (Turner), JOHN LEECH (Turner), MRS. BALL (Turner), MRS. DODWELL. (Turner), MRS. LLEWELLYN (Turner), MRS. MEIKLEJOHN (Meiklejohn), MRS. THOMSON (Turner), QUEEN VICTORIA (Turner), RUBENS (Turner), SAILOR PRINCE (Turner), SELINA (Turner), SPANGLE (Turner), SYDNEY (Turner), TRIUMPHANT (Turner).