Cherry
(Cerasus). There are two species of Cerasus found wild in Britain; others are natives of Southern Europe. The Morello, duke, and Kentish varieties are supposed to have been derived from the wild, or dwarf, Cherry (Cerasus Caproniana), and the Geans, Hearts, and Bigarreaus from the tall wild Gean (C. Avium). They have been in cultivation from an early period, and whether the origin of all the varieties now cultivated is confined to these species, or in part to others, is not definitely known. The Cherry is the earliest to ripen of any hardy fruit (at least, the early varieties are), and, being of a very refreshing character, is much appreciated. Those unfit for dessert on account of their acidity are employed for various purposes in cooking, and the Morellos are much used for preserving or bottling in brandy. Fig. 425 represents a corymb of Cherry, with fully expanded flowers. Propagation. This is effected by budding or grafting, and, to obtain new varieties, by seeds. The stock most generally used for grafting is the wild Gean, obtained by sowing seeds in nursery rows, planting them out at the end of the second year, and growing on until large enough for use. The Mahaleb stock (C. Mahaleb) is much used in France, but it is not suited in some soils in England. Being dwarf-growing, it is useful for dwarf trees, and for Morello and other small-leaved sorts. The general plan is to bud in the summer, when the bark runs freely, choosing cloudy weather for the purpose, and carefully selecting wood-buds. If the buds fail to unite, or do not afterwards grow, the stocks may be grafted the following spring. Selection of scions for grafting is an important matter. In some varieties, the whole length of the shoot will contain only blossom-buds, except the one at the point. In such cases, the latter must not be cut off. Scions should be cut off early in the year, and laid in the ground, until the stocks have begun to grow, which will generally be in March. If prepared in this way, there is a much greater chance of success.
Soil and Situation. The soil must not be too heavy; neither will a very light one, with dry subsoil, be suitable. A good deep loam, moderately rich and well drained, will suit Cherries admirably. Rank manure should not be mixed in the soil when preparing for planting; but well-decomposed leaf soil, burnt refuse, mortar rubbish, &c., will be of great assistance to keep the compost open if it is at all heavy. If Cherries are planted against walls, the borders should be formed to slope from the wall, in order to ensure drainage. For Cherry orchards, the site selected should, if possible, be somewhat undulated, for the same reason. Cultivation in orchards is not practised in all districts, but in some counties large quantities are grown in this way, notably in Kent, Hertfordshire, and Bucking-hamshire. The position given to Cherry-trees in the majority of gardens, and that most convenient for protection, is a wall, varying in aspect with the sort grown. The earliest should be planted against a south wall; the mid-season and main crop varieties will be best suited with a western aspect; and the Morello and Kentish Cherries will do well on a wall facing north or north-west. Various systems of training are adopted for the Cherry, and the one selected must depend on the position and the space to be occupied. Standards are the most suitable for orchards, and should be planted from 20ft. to 30ft. apart. For covering high walls, an arrangement of fan-trained trees on tall stocks, with alternate dwarf trees, trained in the same way, is probably the best method. Where a large collection is desired, the trees may be grown in a limited space on either of the cordon systems; but the quantity of each sort will be somewhat limited if this method is adopted. Horizontal training is also practised, about 1ft. being allowed between the branches for the Bigarreau and other strong-growing kinds, and about 9in. for those the May Duke type.
Protection. The Cherry is an early-flowering tree, and is, consequently, very subject to destruction by spring frosts. Trees on walls may be protected by light shading or double nets in frosty weather, but coverings that exclude light are injurious. Protection from birds, as soon as the fruit begins to colour, is very necessary with all the varieties of Cherries, or the whole crop may be lost. Netting the trees is the only effectual remedy. The net should be fastened under the coping, without leaving any open spaces, and be kept from the trees by means of stakes or framework, carefully fitting it at the bottom. If any spaces are left open, the birds are sure to effect an entrance.
Pruning. Very little pruning is necessary with standard Cherry-trees, beyond keeping the heads in shape and evenly balanced. Most of the varieties fruit on spurs, and should have the growths removed in summer to about 3in. long, thereby admitting light to the fruit, and enabling the plant to form its flower-buds for the following year. If these growths are properly shortened in summer, about the time the stoning process is completed, and all superfluous shoots removed, very little pruning will be necessary in winter. The Morello Cherry requires quite different treatment, in this respect, to any others, as the fruit is produced from the wood of the previous year. The weakest shoots, and some of the old wood, must be cut away, to prevent overcrowding, the strongest only being retained, and nailed in at a distance of about 3in. apart. The fruit may be allowed to hang on the trees of the Morello, if protected, until very late in the season. Thinning of the wood, and nailing in, should be done in spring, before the buds swell, or many of the latter will be broken off. Superfluous shoots should be removed during the summer, to allow the others to ripen, and to obviate the necessity of cutting the trees hard in winter.
Cultivation under Glass. Cherries may be successfully cultivated under glass, provided care be taken not to force them too much in the early stages of growth. They may be grown in pots, if extra attention is given to watering, or be planted out. Cordon trees might with advantage be introduced into the front or some other portion of Peach houses where early forcing is not practised, some of the early varieties being chosen for the purpose. It is important that the trees should not suffer for want of water, or, on the other hand, be allowed to get soddened. A temperature of 40 deg. to 45 deg. is sufficient to start with, air being admitted on all favourable opportunities, especially when the trees are in flower. Cold draughts must, however, be avoided. Ripe fruit may be obtained in April, if the trees are started in January, and very gently forced until after the stoning period. The fruits are liable to drop in large numbers before stoning, should the house be over-heated, or the trees kept in too close an atmosphere, consequently such conditions must be avoided. Large numbers often fall from outside trees, on account of frost or continued low temperature. Trees grown under glass should be fully exposed to the air, so soon as the fruit is gathered, in order to thoroughly ripen the wood. If planted in a house, the sashes should be left open; and if grown in pots, the trees may be removed, and plunged in the open. Watering must still be carefully attended to during the whole of the summer, to mature and prepare the trees for the next year's crop.
Cherry-trees are very liable to gumming at any part of the branches where pruning or other injury has been caused to the bark. It is not considered injurious except in bad cases. Black Fly (which see) is one of the most troublesome insects the trees are subject to.
Sorts. Appended are lists of the principal kinds in cultivation: BIGARREAUS. Of these, the following are the most desirable: Black Bohemian. Flesh and skin jet-black; richly flavoured and delicious. Buttner's Black Heart. Larger than the common Black Heart, with even a more pleasant flavour.
Buttner's Yellow. Medium size, yellow, becoming amber when fully ripe; sweet and rich.