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Chrysanthemum (From chrysos gold and anthemon)

(from chrysos, gold, and anthemon, a flower). ORD. Compositae. A large and, from a garden standpoint, important genus of herbaceous or slightly shrubby plants. Pappus none, or cup-shaped; receptacle naked; involucral bracts many, imbricated, scarious on the margin. The florists' varieties of C. sinense alone amount to several hundreds. In determining them, the following synopsis will be found useful. (The genus Pyrethrum is now included under Chrysanthemum by the best authorities, but, for the sake of convenience, it is kept distinct in this work.) INCURVED, RANUNCULUS-FLOWERED, or EXHIBITION: Florets strap-shaped, curving inwards. Examples: Alfred Salter, Lady Slade, Mr. George Glenny, Mrs. G. Rundle, Queen of England, White Venus, &c.

RECURVED, or REFLEX - FLOWERED: Florets strap-shaped, curving outwards from the centre. Examples: Alma, Dr. Sharpe, Emperor of China, King of Crimsons, &c.

ANEMONE, or QUILLED ASTER-FLOWERED: Ray-florets strap - shaped; disk - florets tubular, densely arranged, cushion-like. Of this section, there are large and small-flowered forms. Of the former, the best examples are: Emperor, Fleur de Marie, Gluck, and King of Anemones; of the latter, or small-flowered, Calliope, Jean Hachette, Madame Montels, Marie Stuart, and Miss Nightingale. POMPONE SMALL REFLEXED, or CHUSAN DAISY - FLOWERED: Flowers small, numerously produced; florets for the most part reflexed, as in Bob, General Canrobert, Snowdrop, &c.; or fringed or toothed at their tips, as in Fimbriatum, Innocence, and Marabout for which, and we are indebted to Messrs. Cannell and Sons). A fully-expanded blossom of a reflexed Pompone is shown. The varieties of this description are the most numerous of the Pompone section. Another form of Pompone is also in cultivation, in which all the florets are quilled, as in Model of Perfection QUILLED, or PIN-FEATHERED JAPANESE: Flowers 6in. to 9in. in diameter; florets involute and tubular, or quilled, with toothed tips. The habit of the plants is tall and somewhat straggling. Examples: Meg Merrilees, Red Dragon, and Sultan.

LARGE - FLOWERED JAPANESE: Flowers large, loose; florets long, strap-shaped. In some instances, the floreta are revolute, twisted, and thread-like. There are very numerous varieties in this section. Examples: Chinaman, Fair Maid of Guernsey, James Salter, and Peter the Great.

In the select list of varieties, representatives of all the various forms of flowers in the Japanese section are included under the one heading. PROPAGATION. This may be effected by seeds, cuttings, suckers, or root divisions. The annual varieties are increased by seeds only, which should be sown in pots, in February or March, or outside. New varieties are sometimes obtained by sowing the seeds of the finer sorts. When any distinct or improved form "sports" from the original stock, it may be readily perpetuated by cuttings.

Seed should be sown in February or March, preferably the former. If slightly covered over, and placed in a warm temperature, they will readily germinate. If the seedlings are pricked off at once and placed near the glass, good plants will soon be obtained. By the middle of May, they may either be planted out of doors, to prove their worth. or in pots till they flower, which will be the first year. As the cultivated varieties are now so very numerous, propagation from seed is seldom resorted to, except with the annual section. Cuttings may be inserted at any time from October to May. The best are made of the young shoots that start from the base of the plant. Any of the tips of these will, however, root readily. A gentle bottom heat facilitates rooting; but a close pit or frame will answer without bottom heat. Cuttings should be inserted either singly in small pots, or several in a large one, in sandy soil. As soon as rooted, they should be shifted into single pots. When the plants are established in their first pots, the points should be nipped out, in order to induce a bushy and compact growth.

Suckers. These differ from the foregoing in being already rooted, or nearly so. They should be potted singly, in sandy soil, and kept rather close, till new roots are formed. Suckers are preferred by many for standard plants, as they are generally stronger than cuttings, and more fitted to form a good stem. They may also be pinched, to form bush plants. Divisions of Root or Stool. This is a quick and ready method of increasing the stock for outside culture, for which purpose it is very commonly adopted. February and March are the best time for the operation. The extent to which the plants should be divided depends on the purpose for which they are required. For outside culture, stools may be cut up into three, five, or more pieces.

GENERAL CULTIVATION. Nearly every grower has his own particular time for the insertion of cuttings. The season ranges from October to March, but November and December are the two most popular months. As soon as the cuttings are rooted, they should be potted off, and receive no check from the commencement until they have flowered. This may be said to be the very basis of the highest success in the culture of Chrysanthemums. To prevent any check, some growers insert the cuttings separately in pots, which is a very good plan, as each, under favourable conditions, is almost sure to root, and the practice involves no waste of either time or space. Whichever plan is adopted, the plants should be placed near the glass, and shifted on successively as they require, when the roots reach the side of the ball. The final shift should be given not later than the middle of July; for although it is most important to keep the roots in full vigour during the early stages of growth, it is equally or more so that they should fill the pots, with roots before the flowering season arrives. In hot, dry places, an eastern or western aspect suits Chrysanthemums better than a southern one for summer quarters; but in colder neighbourhoods, a position facing south would be more suitable. Partial shade from the mid-day sun is desirable. The pots should be plunged to the rim, taking care to provide free egress for the water under them. Chrysanthemums require enormous quantities of water, though few plants sooner show the injurious effects of sour or waterlogged soil. The surface of the pots should also be mulched over, as a protection to the roots against excessive heat and drought, and also as a means of increasing the supply of nutriment. During bright weather, the plants may need watering three or four times a day, and must on no account be allowed to flag for want of it. In good soil, they seldom need much manure water until September, and then that made from cow or sheep dung is the best. Soil. This can scarcely be too rich when the plants are strong and placed in the flowering pots. Good loam, heavy rather than light, should be used in about equal portions with rotten manure, including some cow dung. A little soot intermixed with this tends to give the leaves a dark green colour, and materially assists them. Crushed bones are sometimes used for drainage, with a large crock over the hole. These last a long time, and afford some nourishment to the plants as well; but where not obtainable, a few more crocks should be added instead. Pots of 9in. in diameter are of sufficient size to grow large plants, if the latter are well watered, and fed with liquid manure after the flowers are set. It is much preferable to adopt this plan than to use larger pots without feeding the plants, as the soil becomes exhausted in large pots before the time when the greatest nourishment is required. Useful decorative subjects may be obtained in 48-sized pots if cuttings are put in about the beginning of August, five or six in each, and are not afterwards pinched. The soil should be used as rough as possible, without sifting, and the plants potted firmly by means of hand rammers. Less manure should be given when the plants are young and are being grown on in small pots. Training will greatly depend on the size or description of plant required. Standard specimens should be grown to the desired height before being stopped; while those intended for bush specimens should be pinched evenly, occasionally removing the points of all shoots as they grow. This must not be practised after the middle of July. The flowers also need thinning; and persons who grow for exhibition sometimes thin off all buds, except the terminal one on the shoot. By thus concentrating most or all the force of the plant into its terminal flowers, these may be grown to a very large size. Chrysanthemums readily conform to any style of training. They develop naturally into a dense bush; or may readily be grown into standards, from 3ft. to 9ft. high. For exhibition, they are sometimes severely trained, by the aid of hoops, stakes, and ties, into flat or hemispherical specimens, with the flowers laid flat on a level surface of foliage. The shoots, being fairly flexible, can be trained, when young, in any form desired. The Pompones yield most readily to flat or level training; while the Japanese are most untractable. All staking and training should be completed some weeks before the flowers appear, so that the latter may have time to readjust themselves before opening, and look more natural.

Housing and Flowering. All Chrysanthemums intended for flowering indoors should be under glass, in the autumn, before the appearance of frost. During mild weather, afterwards, they cannot be kept too open or cool; nor can the transition from the outside to the house be made too gradual and easy. Any sudden change of temperature or condition causes the leaves to become yellow; and this not only disfigures, but weakens the plants and flowers. While Chrysanthemums must never be stinted for water, less will be needed when in flower than when in full growth. They will do well in a cool greenhouse, conservatory, or window garden. Some cultivators arrange them against walls, where they are simply placed according to their height, with a temporary glass case over them; and this mode shows off the flowers remarkably well. When placed so that the merits and form of each plant may be seen, Chrysanthemums are most effective. After flowering, the plants may be cut down to within 6in. of the ground, and wintered in a cold frame, or other frost-proof quarters. Some growers, however, merely take cuttings off, and throw the old plants away; others keep the younger plants, and grow them into larger specimens the next year; while many plant them out in the open borders, or against walls, to take their chance of flowering, should season or locality prove favourable. Outdoor Culture. As an autumnal flowering plant, success would be much more general were Chrysanthemums specially cultivated for this purpose. When they are as carefully grown in the open as in pots, they often flower almost equally well. Good results are frequently obtained by keeping them in a very open place throughout the summer, at distances of 2ft. or 3ft. apart, freely exposed to the sun and air all round; and then, towards the end of September, lifting carefully and potting them, keeping close, and shaded for a time afterwards.

C. argenteum (silver-leaved).* fl.-heads white. July. l. bipinnate, hoary; leaflets acute, entire. Stem one-headed, simple. h. 1ft. Levant, 1731. Hardy herbaceous perennial.

C. carinatum (keeled).* fl.-heads white, purple; scales of involucre keeled. August. l. bipinnate, fleshy, smooth. h. 2ft. Barbary, 1796. SYN. C. tricolor. Of this hardy annual, there are numerous varieties: BURRIDGEANUM is an especially good one, as is also LORD BEACONSFIELD, for which we are indebted to Messrs. Cannell and Sons).

C. Catananche (Catananche). fl.-heads solitary, 1 1/2in. to 2in. across, pale yellow; the rays of a purplish hue outside towards the tip, and blood-red within at the very base; disk of a darker yellow. Spring. l. tufted, stalked, irregularly cut into linear acute lobes. Root-stock stout, branched. h. 4in. to 6in. 1871. One of the most beautiful plants of the Greater Atlas. Suitable for a well-drained spot in the rockery. (B. M. 6107.) C. coronarium (garland).* fl.-heads yellow. July to September. l. bipinnatifid, acute, broadest externally. Stem branched. h. 4ft. South Europe, 1629. Hardy annual. (S. F. G. 877.) C. frutescens (shrubby). Under the popular name of Paris Daisies, the flowers of this species, and others of a similar description, are very largely used for decoration. The plants also form very useful subjects for flowering in greenhouses, or in the open ground in summer. The variety ETOILE D'OR is of a pale yellow colour, and very popular. for which we are indebted to Messrs. Cannell and Sons. See also Pyrethrum frutescens.

C. Leucanthemum (white-flowered). Ox-eye Daisy. fl.-heads white. June and July. l. amplexicaul, oblong, obtusely cut, pinnatifid at base; radical ones obovate petiolate. Stem erect, branched. h. 2ft. Britain. Perennial. (S. E. B. iii. 714.) C. segetum (corn).* fl.-heads yellow. June to August. l. amplexicaul, glaucous, inciso-serrate above, toothed at the base. h. 1 1/2ft. Britain. Annual. (Sy. En. B. iii. 713.) C. s. grandiflorum (large-flowered).* for which we are indebted to Messrs. Cannell and Sons.

C. sinense (Chinese).* fl.-heads various; ray-florets very long. Autumn. l. coriaceous, stalked, sinuate-pinnatifid, toothed, glaucous. China, 1764. C. tricolor (three-coloured). A synonym of C. carinatum. VARIETIES. From the enormous number of kinds now in cultivation, we have selected the best in each class.

Incurved. ALFRED SALTER, delicate pink, very fine; ANGELINA, rich amber, shaded salmon; BARBARA, rich golden-yellow; BEVERLEY, cream-white, very broad florets; DR. BROCK, orange-red; DUCHESS OF MANCHESTER, nearly white, the back striped with rosy-carmine; EMPRESS EUGENIE, delicate rose-lilac; EMPRESS OF INDIA, pure white, very fine; EVE, pale sulphur, a most delicate and lovely shade; FAUST, crimson-purple; GENERAL BAINBRIDGE, orange-yellow, golden centre; GOLDEN BEVERLEY, rich yellow, very fine; GOLDEN EMPRESS, primrose; GOLDEN QUEEN OF ENGLAND, rich canary; GUERNSEY NUGGET, primrose, fine; HER MAJESTY, silvery-blush; JARDIN DES PLANTES, golden-yellow, very fine; JOHN SALTER, orange red; LADY HARDINGE, rose-pink; LADY SLADE, lilac-pink, blush centre, very fine; LORD DERBY, dark purple; MR. BRUNLEES, Indian-red, tipped yellow; MR. GEORGE GLENNY, pale yellow, a magnificent variety; MRS. DIXON, rich yellow, very fine; MRS. G. RUNDLE, pure white, one of the best; MRS. HEALE, pure white; MRS. W. HALIBURTON, cream-white; PINK PERFECTION, delicate pink, very fine; PRINCE ALFRED, rose-crimson, large; QUEEN OF ENGLAND, blush, very fine; WHITE VENUS, pure white, very fine.

Recurved and Reflexed. ALMA, rose-crimson; BEAUTE DUNORD, violet-carmine; CHRISTINE, peach, very fine; DR. SHARPE, magenta-crimson, one of the best EMPEROR OF CHINA, silvery-white, tipped salmon; GARIBALDI, bright red, very showy; GAZELLE, bright crimson, yellow-tipped; GOLDEN CHRISTINE, golden-buff, very fine; JULIA LAGRAVERE, velvety-crimson, very fine; KING OF CRIMSONS, rich crimson; MRS. FORSYTH, pure white; PRINCE VICTOR, dark red; PROGNE, amaranth; UNDINE, lilac, tipped blush.

Anemone-flowered. Large: EMPEROR, blush, sulphur centre; EMPRESS, lilac; FLEUR DE MARIE, white; GLUCK, rich yellow, fine; KING OF ANEMONES, crimson-purple, very fine; LADY MARGARET, white, very fine; MADAME GODEREAUX, cream-white, fine; M. CHATE, rich peach, white centre; MRS. PETHERS, rose-lilac; PRINCESS LOUISE, delicate rose-lilac; SUNFLOWER, sulphur-yellow. Small: ANTONIUS, canary-yellow; ASTREA, lilac; CALLIOPE, rich ruby-red; FIREFLY, bright scarlet; JEAN HACHETTE, white, yellow centre; MADAME MONTELS, white, yellow centre, very fine; MARIE STUART, lilac-blush, sulphur centre; MISS NIGHTINGALE, blush, white centre; MR. ASTIE, golden-yellow; PERLE MARGUERITE, rich rose; REGULUS, cinnamon, free.

Pompones. Reflexed: ADONIS, rose and purple; AURORE BOREALE, orange-brown; BOB, dark brown-crimson; CAPTAIN NEMO, amaranth, tipped with white; CRIMSON PERFECTION, bright crimson; DUPONT DE LEURE, rich golden-yellow; ELEONORE, crimson, tipped with gold; FLORENCE, bright rose; GENERAL CANROBERT, pure yellow; GOLDEN CEDO NULLI, canary-yellow; MDLLE. MARTHE, pure white, one of the best; MODEL OF PERFECTION, rich lilac, edged white; MRS. HUTT, orange-brown; PRESIDENT, rose-carmine; WHITE CEDO NULLI, white, tipped brown. Fringed or Toothed: FIMBRIATUM, rose-lilac, suffused yellow; INNOCENCE, white; MARABOUT pure white; MONS. CAMILLE, amaranth, rose-shaded; MONS. HOSTE, deep flesh; SIR RICHARD WALLACE, rose, shaded white; SOUVENIR DE JERSEY, deep rose. Japanese. ABD-EL-KADER, deep maroon-crimson; ARLEQUIN, nankeen yellow; BARON DE PRAILLY, lilac-rose, spotted white; BEAUMONT, golden-yellow, rose-flaked at the back; BRONZE DRAGON, bronze-yellow, fine; CERES, blush-pink; CHANG, dark orange-red, with yellow back, very effective; CHINAMAN, bright violet-purple, with central silvery lines; COMTESSE DE BEAUREGARD, light rose, very fine; CRY KANG, rose-magenta, very fine; DIAMOND, bronze and orange; DR. ARDIGUIER, amaranth-crimson, marbled white; DR. MASTERS, yellow and red, gold-tipped; ELAINE, pure white, ETHEL, pure white; FAIR MAID OF GUERNSEY, pure white, very fine; FLAMBEAU, orange-crimson, reverse side yellow; FULGORE, nankeen yellow; GEORGE GORDON, vivid crimson; GLOIRE DE TOULOUSE, magenta, white centre; HIVER FLEUR, pale buff, tinted rose; JAMES SALTER, clear lilac, shaded centre, very fine; JANE SALTER, white, bordered with rose-lilac; JUPONAIS, bright deep yellow; LA CHARMEUSE, rich purple, white-tipped; LADY SELBORNE, pure white; LA NYMPHE, peach, shaded white; L'INFANTE D'ESPAGNE, pale yellow, immense; MEG MERRILEES, sulphur-white, large; M. RICHARDS LARIOS, dark rose and violet; NUIT D'HIVER, bronze, golden tips; ORACLE, deep red-crimson; PETER THE GREAT, clear lemon, large; RED DRAGON, fiery crimson, golden tips; RED GAUNTLET, dark crimson; ROSA BONHEUR, rich violet, crimson-shaded; RUBRA STRIATA, rich yellow, flaked violet and crimson; THE SULTAN, rosy-purple. Early-flowering Varieties. CHROMATELLA, golden-orange; DELPHINE CABOCHE, reddish-mauve; FRED. PELE, red-crimson; ILLUSTRATION, white, shaded; JARDIN DES PLANTES, rich yellow, also a white variety; LA PETITE MARIE, pure white; LITTLE BOB, maroon-red; MADAME C. DESGRANGE, white, with yellow centre; MADAME PICOUL, rose-purple; NANUM, blush; PRECOCITE, bright yellow; SOUVENIR D'UN AMI, pure white, very fine. for which we are indebted to Messrs. Cannell and Sons.