Garden
A Garden is usually understood to mean a piece of land of any description or size, attached to, or connected with, a residence, and set apart, either for the purpose of growing vegetables and fruits for the supply of the household, or for the cultivation of plants and flowers for the embellishment of any part of the house or the Garden itself. The results attending the culture of vegetable and fruits are of the greatest national importance, as representing a necessary source for supplying wholesome food, which it would be impossible to obtain unless care were bestowed in preparing the land and cultivating the crops annually, according as each may require. Flowers, and the plants specially grown for producing them, have a universal charm, presenting a means of endless study and enjoyment to all who properly appreciate their worth. The value of making a Garden of some description wherever practicable in conjunction with every dwelling house, cannot be over-estimated, as it invariably tends to promote health and enjoyment. There is an extremely wide range in its application, admitting unlimited arrangements according to the amount of available space to be inclosed or the requirements and taste of those persons who have to incur the expense of preparing or keeping it up. In large towns, the value of land precludes the possibility of obtaining any more than a limited portion as Garden ground, yet this should be utilised to the fullest extent for the purposes to which it is best adapted. The amount of interest and pleasure, apart from profit, to be derived from a Garden, depends greatly on the capacity of the individual who may frequently or occasionally visit it, to notice and appreciate the beauties of nature that may be found in every conceivable form around. These advantages of pleasure, combined with utility in obtaining the crops annually, represent the practical outcome of capital expended on Gardens, and an adequate return should be obtained in an indirect, if not in a pecuniary, manner. Very much depends on the gardener using every available means to render his charge attractive and satisfactory to all concerned, as, without this attention, a Garden becomes the reverse of what it really should be. Much more may be accomplished in a small space, it proper and continued attention is bestowed, than would, at first sight, appear credible. This is frequently exemplified in the case of amateurs, who only have window space or that allowed with a small villa or cottage. The love of a Garden and its products, in every way, is one of the prevailing characteristics of English fashion, from the highest to the lowest class of individuals, and it should receive encouragement on every hand. The more a student of nature learns of the various forms and means adopted therein for reaching certain ends, every one of which has some definite purpose, the more is he induced to pursue his investigations, although the gaining of further knowledge only reveals the marvellous extent of the system open for study to those who choose to proceed with it. The form and extent of Gardens depending so entirely on that of the house or mansion with which they are associated, renders it impossible to give more than general advice regarding their position or method of laying out to the best advantage. Some of the principal points to be adopted, and other which it is well to avoid, will be duly noticed, both in the case of Gardens of considerable extent, and also in those of smaller dimensions. FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN. In planning and laying out this department, on an extensive scale, the exercise of considerable judgment and forethought will be required. It is work that only falls to the lot of comparatively few gardeners in the first instance, yet a knowledge of its performance is frequently requisite to enable alterations to be made with part at a time, that in due course may, in some respects, convert the whole. The most important points to be observed are situation, soil, form, size, and shelter.
Situation and Soil. A situation has sometimes to be accepted irrespective of the condition or quality of the soil, but each requires an equal notice wherever there is a choice. In selecting a site, it should be, if possible, slightly undulated and face the south, or a little south-east. In dry districts, or where the sub-soil is of a gravelly nature, it would be better if the ground were nearly flat, provided efficient drainage could be secured without having to go very deep at any point. if in connection with a mansion, the best position near to it should be selected for the Kitchen Garden, on account of transferring the produce; yet it should be sufficiently far away to allow work of any description to proceed at the proper time. Many proprietors take a great interest in this department, which generally includes nearly the whole of the forcing operations, grape and other fruit culture under glass, &c. It is advisable that the approach from the mansion should be towards the front or ends of the houses, in preference to the back, which is invariably utilised for tool and other sheds. A southern aspect, or nearly so, being that usually selected for garden structures, and also for the front or principal part of a mansion, it follows that the best position for the Garden is on some point towards the east or west, far enough away to admit of the boundary wall being concealed from view by trees and shrubs, and to allow of the approach being in the direction above indicated. The condition of the soil should be considered in several respects--as to its depth in general, the quality of the top spit, and also the sub-soil. A depth of less than 18in. will be unsuitable, the best being from 2ft. to 3ft. A rather heavy loam in some parts, with that of a lighter or more sandy nature in others, will admit of positions being selected for different crops that require such soils; and, for this reason, both are preferable if to be obtained. The quality of the sub-soil, especially when it is of an irony or close, retentive nature, and so prevents the free passage of air and water, has a great effect on all fruit-trees and on garden crops generally. Fruit-trees seldom succeed on such sub-soils, as, once their roots enter it, canker and other diseases immediately attack the branches and cause than to decay. Much may be accomplished in improving and deepening shallow soils by adding more on the top from an adjoining field or other place; but this causes a great deal of work, and, moreover, does not remove the evils attending a bad sub-soil; consequently, the latter should be avoided, if possible. The amount of drainage to be applied artificially depends a great deal on the porosity of the earth beneath the surface. In many cases, it is only necessary to drain the walks; and if the situation of the garden is undulated, this may be easily effected. Land of a retentive, clayey nature may require draining throughout in districts where the rainfall is heavy, in order to remove the superabundant moisture that would otherwise collect. In other soils, resting mostly on gravel, sufficient is generally conducted naturally by the latter from the majority of growing crops. In selecting a situation for the Kitchen Garden, the available means for supplying water must also be considered, as a large quantity is always required in summer. If it can be procured from a stream or large open reservoir exposed to sun and air, it will be found warmer, softer, and better suited in every way for plants, than if obtained direct from a well or spring. A stream passes through some Gardens, and although the water is very useful at times, its presence in spring attracts the least frost, which often prove destructive to fruit blossom and other early crops. If a natural source, higher than the garden itself, is not available, another method may be employed, such as a hydraulic ram, for forcing water into a reservoir at a point sufficiently high to insure its return through pipes to any part of the Garden desired. The above conditions are not always to be obtained, but they should be fully considered wherever there is a choice of site. Form and Size. Where, as in this case, the cultivation of fruit and vegetables is of first importance, the shape of the ground does not matter materially. This and the size are points depending a good deal on each other, and on the requirements of each place individually. An extensive Kitchen Garden, of some five or six acres of land, has often to be managed for cultivating sufficient fruit and vegetables to supply the demands of a large household. As the expense of laying out a Garden of this size, and the subsequent annual expenditure to keep it stocked, and in good order, are necessarily heavy, the greatest care should be taken, in the first instance, to utilize every means for rendering the whole a permanent success. The size, number of walls, glass structures, &c., must, therefore, entirely depend on requirements and the amount of expense to be incurred. The Kitchen Garden, or a large portion of it, is usually surrounded with walls. There are essential for the cultivation of fruit-trees that would not succeed and ripen crops in the open ground, and they are best placed so as to form either a square or an oblong, with its ends running towards east and west. Such shapes admit of the division and arrangement of the inclosure being carried out in a uniform manner, the latter allowing a much larger surface of wall exposed to a southern aspect then the former--an important consideration in many localities, as the borders share the same advantage. Whether the walls should be direct north and south, or facing a little to one side, is a matter on which opinions differ. If set on an angle from the south, they should certainly face a little in an easterly direction, to obtain the full benefit of the sun's rays before midday. Fruit-trees, suitable for all aspects, may be selected so as to cover both sides if desired. Thus, the walls having a southern aspect, should accommodate Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and some of the best Pears; the eastern would do for Plums and good hardier Pears that are too tender for succeeding in the open; the western for more Plums and Cherries, also for Apricots in some localities; and the northern for Morello Cherries, late Gooseberries and Currants. In northerly or extreme cold districts, some of the first-named of these threes require a glass covering as well. The proper levels for every main point will be one of the first conditions to be fixed in laying out, and this, on a large scale, will necessitate the use of instruments that are seldom kept by gardeners. Such main points should be decided so as to insure a means of drainage and other necessaries before any of the positions for the walls are fixed, and they should be disposed so that the intermediate spaces may be regulated from them, and the whole work proceed on a definite system thus arranged at the outset. Generally, three or four main walks, intersected with others at right angles, are sufficient for any walled-in Kitchen Garden, the quarters thus formed being sub-divided, for convenience, with paths cut in the ground. The fruit-free borders should be at least 10ft. or 12ft. wide, and the outer main walk should follow their limit at that distance from the wall. Trained fruit-trees are usually placed parallel with the main walks, sufficiently far back to form the boundary for other borders that should preferably be utilised for growing Roses and hardy flowers for cutting, or for some crop such as a salad. In many Gardens, a range of forcing houses throughout a good portion of the length is thought desirable, and they usually present a fine appearance if built on a plan and of a size proportionate with the surrounding. In most instances, it is, however, advisable to place the glass structures by themselves, just sufficiently far apart to admit of all equally sharing a full amount of sunshine and light. This allows of all being more conveniently connected with a heating apparatus without having recourse to an unnecessary number of boilers. Additional space will usually be required for fruit culture beyond that inside the Garden walls, and an adjoining site should be selected, if suitable, and included within the boundary fence. The soil, subsoil, draining, &c., will need similar attending to be bestowed as in the interior or any other part of the Garden where such trees are planted. Where a good orchard is at command for the supply of Apples, &c. a material advantage is gained in the Garden, by an extra amount of land being available for vegetable culture. It is always best to allow crops plenty of room to develop themselves, as the soil in the intermediate spaces may be more easily cleaned, and the produce will invariably be of a superior quality. Shelter. An important requisite in connection with the site selected for a Kitchen or Fruit Garden, is shelter. The most destructive winds are those from the East and North-east to north-west. If natural shelter from these quarters can be procured at the outset, so much the better; but otherwise, a screen must be prepared in some way, to neutralize the force of the wind, and to render its effect on tender vegetation less dangerous. This is most effectually provided by planting a double avenue of trees, or forming a wide plantation, so as to include trees or shrubs that are of a quick-growing nature, and are known to succeed in the locality. Scotch Firs, Pinus austriaca, P. Laricio, and several other of this family, Poplars, Larches, Elms, &c., may be freely used where they are known to succeed. Garden walls, 10ft. or 12ft. high, afford some shelter to the part inclosed; but the evil effects of cold, cutting winds have always to be guarded against, not only for the sake of outside plants, but also for those in forcing or other warm structures. South-west winds are frequently very rough and destructive. It is also advisable to provide a shelter from these, but it should be further away, so as to avoid excluding sun and light. High threes of any description are not desirable near the southern exposure. Those recommended for planting on the another and eastern sides may commence at a distance of about thirty yards from the Garden boundary.
FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. By these terms reference is made to departments entirely devoted to the cultivation of flowers, shrubs, and trees of an ornamental character, selected and arranged with the natural scenery, &c., around, to form a place of resort for interest and pleasure at all times. A flower Garden is considered an indispensable adjunct to every residence; combined with Pleasure Grounds, it has a more extensive significance as applying to that adjoining or surrounding a mansion. It must, of necessity, be within easy access, so that the most attractive parts may be seen from the window, or reached in a short time from the outside. The embellishment of Flower Garden beds, and the continued attention required to keep all in good order throughout the year, most seriously affect the other departments where the numberless plants have to be prepared, especially if carpet-bedding is introduced. Where the means at command for storing and growing these plants are totally inadequate for supplying enough to properly fill the space, it would be better to reduce the number of beds, or to devote some of them to select hardy perennials than to attempt too much with an insufficiency of material, and so destroy the effect of the whole. This is a matter requiring attention when first planning and laying out a Flower Garden. The extent of Pleasure Grounds may be as much as desired, or according as the woods surrounding the mansion will admit. They are frequently made to form a connection between this latter and some other building or permanent place of interest, such as the Kitchen Garden. Apart from the natural scenery and the free use of ornamental trees and shrubs, the introduction of many hardy flowering plants may be recommended, as suitable position for their development may, perhaps, be better found here than in the Flower Garden proper. The various tastes possessed by proprietors or their friends, with the size of the establishment and the extent to which gardening may be carried, will each have an effect on individual cases, and prevent the following remarks from being more than those of a general character. It is well, if possible, to avoid extremes in the matter of taste, as there is plenty of room for all styles, if restricted to places in which they are appropriate. Site and Extend. Most of the mansions built some two or three centuries ago are situated in a valley or the lower part of an extensive park. A somewhat elevated position is now invariably chosen, as the great importance of fresh air has become more fully recognized. Extended views of landscape are usually selected for the front or principal outlook; and as these already exist, and, perhaps, from part of the design in fixing the site for the building, neither of them should be selected for the Flower Garden, if another place in the vicinity can be obtained without interfering with that which exhibits natural beauty in itself. An open expanse of lawn, with a few clumps of shrubs and trees of limited growth, judiciously placed, would be more appropriate in close proximity to the building from which the view is desired, and would not be likely to detract attention, as would a mass of flowers, from the main object of view beyond. Where such landscape effects do not exist, one of the best positions may be chosen for the Flower Garden--supposing there is sufficient shelter, as the advantage of being able to view it from the windows in any weather, must not be overlooked. Some of the best-arranged and most compact Flower Gardens are those laid out on grass, in an inclosure of which a large conservatory forms part of the boundary, the other part being composed of trees of an ornamental character that afford good shelter, and do not exclude too much light. Shelter is most important in the selection of a site, as the tender exotics used in summer, especially in carpet and sub-tropical beds, will not succeed if too much exposed. Bedding plants present but a poor appearance when allowed to suffer from drought in summer; hence the necessity of an abundance of water. This may, in many instances, be obtained from that supplying the mansion, by means of pipes laid underground, and furnished with screw sockets, wherever desired, for connecting a standpipe and hose. Carrying water by hand is an almost hopeless task in a large establishment in summer. Preparation of Ground, Flower Beds, &c. Soil which is heavy and retentive is unsuited for a Flower Garden; but at times there is no choice, and the best modes of ameliorating and warming it must be adopted. The first necessary means for attaining this end is thorough drainage, not only for the good of the shrubs and flowers, but also for the whole of the land and walks. The state of the latter has much to do with the general appearance of the Garden, and, if undrained, it is impossible to pass over them with pleasure during or immediately after rain. A gravelly sub-soil will usually drain the lawn and open land sufficiently without pipes, especially if the position is a little elevated; but where the whole is of a clayey nature, and of a good depth, it may be necessary to lay them at distances not exceeding 12ft. apart. The work of laying main drains, and the branches connected therewith, should be a preliminary operation, performed as soon as the various points and levels are fixed, and before the plan of the beds is finally laid out. All tender bedding plants require a rather light, moderately rich soil, to encourage them to root and grow freely so soon as they are planted. If that secured naturally to form new beds be heavy or retentive, it should be dug out about 1 1/2ft. deep, and either partially or entirely replaced with some of a lighter description. Leaf soil is the best of all manures to use, as it tends to encourage rapid root action, without, as a rule, causing an undue growth at the top. In soils already light, an addition of something heavier in the way of loam would be advisable, otherwise leaf mould may be used in quantity. It should be thoroughly incorporated by digging, or part of the plants will outgrow the others. A flower bed prepared for planting should be firm and raked rather fine, and should present a uniform nearly flat surface, about 1in. higher than the edge of the bed, from which it should be clearly separated. Style and Mode of Laying Out. Various styles of laying out are employed: they may be practically included under two headings--the geometrical, and the free or symmetrical. The former is essentially formal and is largely employed, as being most suitable, for inclosed Gardens surrounded with everything more or less of a formal character. It admits of colours being arranged so that the proportion is evenly balanced when viewed as a whole; one-half of any correct geometrical design being intended as an exact counterpart of the other. The free, or symmetrical, style allows, according as individual taste may suggest, a much wider scope in the shape and arrangement of the beds and their mode of embellishment. This plan, properly executed, is preferred by many, as it dispenses, in great part, with the formality of the other; yet, to be attractive, symmetry must, to a certain extent, be assured both with the beds and their occupants. The surrounding scenery must also be appropriate, and should form the main guide in disposing of the space at command. Although it is scarcely possible to have an excess of flowers, when placed in their proper positions throughout an extended area, yet too much is frequently attempted in Gardens of limited proportions, with the disadvantage that the plants employed are unable to exhibit their true characters. Simple figures, as beds cut out in the turf, in a size proportionate to the surroundings, are invariably most satisfactory, in Gardens of either large or small pretensions, where the symmetrical style is adopted. Geometrical designs may also be cut in grass, although some prefer Box or other edgings. Figure gardening was for a long time greatly in vogue; the various scrolls were represented by different shrubs and coloured gravels, the numerous narrow walks between being also graveled. The ground-plan of the Garden of the Tuileries in the time of Louis XIII. may be interesting as indicating the extent to which the system was carried out in France. Its existence in this country is now almost entirely limited to Gardens of historic interest, the general use of turf having become more prevalent, with the result that a great improvement has been effected in the majority of instances, as the plants and flowers were previously subordinate to the edgings and walks surrounding them. The method of laying out will be the next proceeding, after the points already noticed are decided, and the preliminary work of draining, levelling, &c., is accomplished. The design on paper, if to be accurately represented on the ground, should be prepared to a scale that may be easily divided, and the enlargement calculated. A Garden, in the shape of a square or parallelogram, of any size, may be more readily laid out than one with an irregular outline. The necessary tools will be a tape measure and measuring rod, a strong line, and some pegs. A right-angled triangle, a pair of wooden compasses, and a large T-square, are also useful instruments. A system of exactly ganging and marking everything, must be adopted where there are many figures to be shown in relation to each other. The outside boundary should be measured out into equal distances of one or more feet, according as it may be practicable to divide the plan; and if these points are marked with pegs, and the positions of all the walks similarly fixed, a foundation will be formed that will facilitate the means of obtaining the other references required. Where there are several walks, it would be advisable to mark all the corners, and insert a few pegs to define their boundaries on both sides. If it is necessary that a main walk should proceed at considerable length, quite straight, an ordinary line is not a certain guide. Upright stakes, about 6ft. high, specially prepared and painted white, with a broad band of black or red near the top, are most useful. When the two ends are fixed by having a stick driven in at each, the intervening space may be accurately marked by others from the sight obtained from either end. If a long curve or sweep is to be laid out, the ends must first be known, and, if possible, a few points between. This may also be marked by similar stakes; but one side is usually obtained by laying a rather heavy line with the hand, and afterwards measuring the width from it for the other. Gardens vary so much in size, shape, and other respects, that it would be impossible to give advice applicable to all alike. The foregoing remarks refer to some of the principles adopted in laying out the Flower Garden or walks in the Pleasure Ground, but other methods may be necessary in instances where these cannot be applied. The Pleasure Ground, as a rule, has only one main walk, sometimes formed of gravel, and at others of a broad expanse of turf. The principal recommendation for gravel is that, if properly laid, it may be walked on in weather and seasons when turf would not be dry enough. In forming Pleasure Grounds, much may be done with trees and shrubs that not unfrequently exit beforehand, by arranging and grouping others, so as to more fully exhibit the true character of those growing in a natural state. Avenues, glades, and vistas, with an irregular outline running into the surrounding woods, terminating with some specimen tree or other object in the distance, and clumps of massive Rhododendrons, placed far enough from the walk to show their beauty when in flower: these should be some of the leading characteristics. The planting of conifers and other ornamental trees should be restricted to such as are known to succeed in the locality, as climate and soil greatly affect them everywhere. The permanent positions for these should be selected, so that plenty of room is allowed them to develop, and nothing of interest eventually hidden in consequence. A group of conifers, planted wide enough apart to avoid overcrowding, and surrounded by an open lawn, always has a more striking appearance than when the same number are placed about singly over an extended area.
American Garden. This title signifies an open space in the Pleasure Ground, or some other part of the Flower Garden, wherein a collection of chiefly American plants, or those whose progenitors came from that country, are grown. Many of the most beautiful of hardy flowering shrubs are included amongst these, and others, of a hard-wooded nature, that are usually cultivated and thrive under similar conditions. The Rhododendron and hardy Azalea are shrubs largely grown, and both are now represented in endless and beautiful varieties. Heaths in variety, Ledums, Kalmias, Gaultherias, and many others of a like character, all help to constitute a collection of interesting shrubby plants that cannot fail to be admired. They require a light peaty soil, and will not succeed if chalk is present, or if the drainage be defective. For plants of this description, the usual and necessary plan, where the natural soil is heavy, is to specially prepare beds with peat and leaf soil, which, on the other hand, need not be of a great depth where the sub-soil is light and porous, as none of them are of a deep-rooting nature.
Sub-tropical Garden. Where means are at command, sub-tropical gardening should be adopted in summer so far as the number of plants and suitable situations admit. It is imperative that the latter should be well sheltered from rough winds, as these soon destroy the fine foliage of the plants used. If a suitable site can be obtained in the Flower Garden, it is preferable, as forming a contrast to the ordinary flowering subjects used in the other beds. Large plants, such as some of the hardier palms, tree ferns, Musas, &c., in pots or tubs, present a fine appearance when plunged outside; but these require considerably more room to keep them in winter than can be allowed in any except very extensive places. Many other plants are, however, available that may be raised from seed or cuttings each spring, and these form, in suitable situations, a commendable addition. They require a deep rich soil and more light than palms, &c., which make but little growth outside. Sub-tropical plants, such as Acacia lophantha, Cannas, Eucalyptus globulus, Grevillea robusta, Melianthus major, Ricinus in variety, Solanums and Wigandias, with many others, are all of easy culture, and are very effective on account of their varied and attractive foliage.
Hardy Perennial Garden. After a long season of comparative neglect, the large and very important class of herbaceous and other hardy perennial plants once cultivated are again assuming their proper position in many Gardens, by having an extensive border or other space specially devoted to their accommodation. An open situation and a rich soil are preferred by the majority. Shelter, afforded by trees or by other means, is advisable, supposing the former are not near enough to overhang and cause shade, or for their roots to impoverish the ground. Many of the choicest alpine plants require partial shade and thorough drainage. These succeed best in positions such as the nooks and corners of rockwork; consequently, the latter is a useful and oftentimes requisite addition. Herbaceous plants are not unfrequently disliked on account of the appearance nearly always presented by some of the tops dying away. There are, however, always others to form a succession and prolong the flowering season; and it must be remembered that the decaying tops should only be partially removed, as they form the natural protection for the roots in winter. Sufficient interest should be developed in hardy plants for the general beauty and floral display presented by such a large proportion of their number, to completely ignore an objection like this. The Perennial Garden or mixed border should be of considerable width, to admit of tall-growing subjects being included; and if a background can be obtained of high Rhododendrons or other evergreens that shelter without causing too much shade, the cultivated plants will be benefited, and, when in flower, will be seen to the best advantage. In Fig. 76 is represented a summer view of an existing garden, a little less than an acre in extent, devoted chiefly to the cultivation of hardy perennial and alpine plants. Sufficient space is here found for upwards of 2000 species and varieties, and all succeed more or less under unfavourable atmospheric conditions.
Rock Garden. Where numerous hardy alpine and herbaceous plants are cultivated, a Rock Garden, greater or less in extent, is the most suitable place for their accommodation. Many of the best and rarest species will not succeed so well elsewhere as they do amongst the crevices on an elevated piece of rockwork, which, in addition, affords a situation for an endless variety of hardy and half-hardy plants. There are few Gardens in which something of the sort might not be constructed and rendered attractive, especially in localities where stones are plentiful. After being once planted, the requisite care in after treatment is but nominal, compared with the additional interest thereby secured, particularly when only a select class of plants is allowed, and these are appropriately placed, according to their height or special cultural requirements. Attempts are sometimes made, in a Rock Garden of an extensive description, to imitate, so far as practicable, the work of Nature in the arrangement of the stones employed. This has often to be conducted partially at the expense of providing adequate means for the well-being of the plants, which should be the main consideration. Where space and material are unlimited, excellent result may be attained; but in a confined area, the effect produced in many cases only shows the insignificance of the work in comparison with that of Nature. Rockwork may be introduced for various reasons, apart from the culture of alpines, such as hiding an unsightly wall or other objects of limited height, or for giving a diversity to an otherwise flat and uninteresting scene. A Rock Garden may be successfully formed where the surface is generally flat, by digging a deep cutting of an irregular outline through a piece of ground, and utilising the soil thus obtained as mounds of uneven heights along the upper part on either side, whereon trees and evergreen shrubs may be planted as a background and for affording shelter. The stones should be arranged to form cavities of an irregular size and shape, for the accommodation of various plants, from the sides of a walk made in the centre of the cutting, up the gradual slope formed by the soil, until the shrubs in the background are reached. It does not so much matter what the quality of the soil is underneath, providing it is porous enough to insure drainage, as additional new soil should be given each plant when inserting it. Formality must be avoided as much as possible in the arrangement and the stones should be deeply embedded, in order to hold them firmly. Various aspects are desirable to suit different plants, and these should be readily secured in a Rock Garden by the irregular shape the latter should assume in construction. Artificial masses of rockwork, for ornamental effect, are sometimes introduced into the slopes of hills adjoining a mansion; and, if properly executed, they present quite a natural and fine appearance. The extent of, and position for, a Rock Garden must depend on the surroundings, and on the amount of space and number of plants at command. If arranged on a mound in the open, the slope should be very gradual; and a good proportion of shrubs should be introduced near the top. Dwarf-growing shrubs, Yuccas, and other subjects of an evergreen character, are always acceptable for their attractiveness in winter when the primary alpine and herbaceous occupants are resting. Care should be taken not to over-fill the cavities with soil, so as to bury the stones; and the surface of each, when planting, should be left somewhat flat, in order that rain and other water may enter the ground instead of running off. Considerable experience is necessary for the proper construction of a Rock Garden on a large scale, and a knowledge of the various habits of hardy plants is requisite before their positions for planting can be appropriately fixed. A quantity of loam and leaf soil, with some small pieces of granite or other stone, should be mixed beforehand, and a portion placed round each plant, the addition of peat being made in the case of those requiring it. Rockeries usually improve in appearance with age, and when the plants have had time to develop and fill their allotted space. Other plants may be continually introduced, and improvements effected, where the arrangement of those first selected proves in any degree unsatisfactory. Annual top-dressings of new soil should be given to such as do not appear to succeed; and a plentiful supply of water in summer is requisite, almost without exception, for all.
Wild Garden, Of recent years, the naturalisation of hardy plants has received more than usual attention by the formation of Wild Gardens, wherein they may grow and produce an effect by an artificial arrangement something like the appearance presented by them in a natural state. The spot selected for a Wild Garden should be possessed of some natural attraction adapted to artificial improvement; otherwise, the attempt to imitate Nature will be but a poor one. Various strong-growing perennials that cannot be afforded space to develop in the mixed border or rockery, form the best of subjects to arrange in the Wild Garden, which, in country districts, cannot be better situated than in a part of the Pleasure Ground more or less surrounded with woods. Many of the beautiful bulbous plants that may be secured in quantity, succeed admirably under trees; and, when flowering above the grass, in spring, in large groups, they present a charming appearance. Narcissi in great variety, common Hyacinths, Primroses, hardy Cyclamens, various Liliums, Snowdrops, and numerous other subjects of a similar nature, are well suited for naturalising in masses. Tall-growing plants, such as Asters, Foxgloves, Polygonums, strong-growing Roses, and others, in endless variety, may be similarly treated where there is sufficient room for their full development. The Wild Garden, as its name indicates, should be specially set apart as a place for the cultivation of hardy plants that grow freely, and where they may be allowed to do so at will with only very limited restriction.
Rose Garden. The popularity of Roses, and their general beauty in summer, demand special attention in the matter of cultivation, which cannot be better secured than by specially selecting a position for the purpose, and arranging the different sections, as dwarf, standard, climbing, or pillar plants, to form a garden exclusively for Roses. A piece of ground should be set apart in every large establishment for this purpose, and if the habits of the various sorts are studied and due notice given in the respective positions selected for them, a floral effect may be obtained, and a greater or less quantity of flowers gathered for four or five months in the year. For further information and culture, see Roses.
VILLA GARDENS. Villas most largely preponderate in the suburbs of cities and extensive commercial centres or towns, and are built either as detached or semidetached residences, with an adjoining Garden, that must necessarily be of a limited character. Detached villas are usually situated at or near one end of their own grounds, a small space at the front being devoted to lawn and shrubs, with or without a carriage drive to the door, and the back part also laid out in lawn, with the addition of as many shrubberies and flower beds as may be thought desirable; the space beyond this being utilised for a Kitchen Garden, if there is sufficient inclosed. Semi-detached residences are frequently limited to a piece of land not much exceeding half the size of that allotted to those entirely isolated, and are at a further disadvantage of each being overlooked from the neighbouring side. It frequently happens that these Gardens are laid out by the builder when his operations are finished, and the incoming tenant has, perhaps, only a short lease, which naturally prevents him going to the expense of extensive alterations to suit personal requirements for a very limited time. It cannot be expected that anything elaborate can be obtained in such a limited space as that connected with a villa; yet it is surprising what an amount of interest and pleasure may be derived from such, if care and judgment are exercised-first, in laying out, and afterwards in the selection of suitable subjects for filling the space at command. Flower beds are recommended, so far as circumstances admit, particularly those of a mixed character, where the permanent occupants may be select hardy perennial and alpine plants, various spring flowering bulbs, &e.; and the intervening spaces filled, in summer, with annuals and various tender bedding subjects. A position should always be found for Roses, as they are indispensable in every Garden. The selection of shrubs should be restricted to such as are known to be limited in growth, and suitable for their positions, when required for the lawn or for a border below the front windows. When it is necessary to plant trees near flower beds, for a screen, considerable injury must, of necessity, be caused by the roots permeating the soil, and by the tops frequently overhanging and so causing too much shade. One of the greatest faults in any Garden is overcrowding. This should be a point especially avoided with those adjoining villas, where the owners, in their laudable endeavour to grow as many things as possible, are often advised to try what is quite beyond their means to successfully accomplish. Laying out, replanting, the care of plants, &c., grown in the greenhouse or frames, with the ordinary general attention requisite for all, should always be entrusted to someone competent to advise and undertake it, in preference to employing another whose services may be procured at a cheaper rate. Just sufficient trees, of limited growth, should be planted to insure privacy at all times; a certain portion of the inclosure, according as circumstances admit, being devoted to the cultivation of a few good shrubs and flowers, and the rest laid in turf, i.e., supposing the whole is arranged for pleasure only. This is generally the intention with villa Gardens, in which a space is allowed, perhaps not exceeding 6yds., from the house to the front boundary, and another, about 25yds. Long, at the back, the width being that of the building and its side entrance. A greenhouse is always interesting when adjoining a villa, if the plants therein are such as do well, and are properly tended-a condition, perhaps, not practicable with all, but one that is insufficiently studied where means are at command. Far more pleasure is derived from a few floriferous plants well grown, than from a quantity that merely exist, and are unduly crowded. Villa Gardens depend so much on the plan adopted with the building and with others adjoining it, also on the taste and resources of the proprietor or tenant. It, that definite advice cannot be given so as to be applicable to all. With a view to assist amateurs in the arrangement or laying out of their gardens permanently, both in the front and back parts of their residences, some illustrations are given with a view to suggestions being taken therefrom. In Fig. 77 is represented the front entrance to a detached villa by a semi-circular carriage drive. The object is to screen the door from view outside by a thick shrubbery, and to have circular flower beds cut in the turf on each side of the steps; a larger one of another shape, also for flowers, such as dwarf Roses, being situated in the front, on the opposite side of the drive. Front gardens connected with two semi-detached villas are shown in Fig. 78. That on the left (a) is laid out in a formal style, a large flower bed surrounded with a gravel walk. The bed might be panted geometrically, as shown, or in any way desired. The other (b) has a narrow border of shrubs under the window, which is continued round as far as the entrance gate. The space between is intended for turf, with a few small beds cut in it for flowers or some dwarf shrubs. This style is much to be preferred to the preceding one. A plan of a detached residence situated inside its grounds is represented in Fig. 79. This shows a greenhouse and pits attached to the building, the lawn having flower beds in it, and nearly surrounded with a dwarf shrubbery. The object here is to get the best view from a summer house in the corner (b), and from the windows of the principal rooms. The plan shown at Fig. 80 is one that might be adopted on a rather large and expensive scale for a Garden connected with a good-sized villa. The outside boundary is usually a wall, and in this case it is intended to be hidden by a row of dwarf Robinias and an irregular belt of shrubs. These are followed by turf and a walk of an irregular outline, which ends in a rustic summer house at one corner (a) and has a garden seat at another. A greenhouse joins the residence, which is not shown in the figure; and the lawn, situated in the middle, has a few clumps of evergreen* flowering shrubs arranged in the corners and curves formed by the walks. Considerable expense would be incurred in stocking and properly keeping up a Garden of this description; but it would not require to be frequently renewed, like a quantity of summer flower beds.