Melon
(Cucumis Melo). The Melon produces the richest and most highly valued fruit of any plant in the family to which it belongs, and its crop is one of the most important each year for dessert and other purposes. It is supposed to be a native of the hotter parts of Asia, and to have been introduced from there to Europe at the commencement of the Christian era. In some parts of the East, where Melons grow plentifully in the open air, the fruit forms one of the chief articles of food for the inhabitants. In this country, where success is rarely attainable without glass houses, or frames, and artificial heat, the product is, in consequence, one of comparative luxury. The Melon is a trailing plant, unless trained to cover trellises, &c., when, by the use of its numerous tendrils in retaining a hold, it becomes partially self-supporting as a climber it is of annual duration. The flowers are monoecious, and are produced in the axils of the leaf-stalks the males being by far the most numerous of the two sexes. Plants only succeed well during the summer, when there is plenty of light and sun for ripening the fruits, and causing them to attain the highest flavour. The season for the best fruits is, therefore, limited to the six months beginning with May; and, for the earliest crops, preparations must commence in January, or early in February. It is advisable to sow a few seeds, from this time until July, at intervals of about three weeks, as various circumstances may tend to render one or more batches useless, and then others will be ready to take their place in a short time afterwards. Melons are raised in any quantity, from seeds, and it is very important that these should be obtained from a reliable source. Where numerous varieties, or even any number beyond one, are grown together, there is a danger of the flowers becoming naturally or artificially cross-fertilised; and, again, if good specimens of fruit are not selected for seed-bearing, deterioration soon takes place. The seeds are best placed singly, or two each, in small pots, with a view, in the latter instance, of removing the weakest plant in due course. A compost of loam and leaf soil is most suitable, and the pots should be plunged in a frame where there is a bottom heat of about 75deg. Considerable attention is requisite in the early part of the year, in respect of inuring young plants to air and light, with a view to getting them strong before being permanently planted. So soon as the first leaf appears, beyond those produced by the seed, the plants are generally fit for repotting. This operation should be carefully performed, to avoid injuring the tender roots, and the soil, before being used, should, for the same reason, be placed where it can become warm throughout. Allowing seedling Melons to become starved in their pots, before planting, is a bad system, unfortunately too commonly practised. It is far better to sow frequently, and plant only such as are healthy, and in a free-growing state, discarding others as soon as it is known they will not be required.
Soil. Melons succeed best in a rather strong, heavy loam, which should be of a friable, rather than of an adhesive, nature. Some growers recommend cutting turf, 3in. thick, from a pasture, breaking it in pieces, and using at once; while the more general plan, in gardens, is, perhaps, that of reserving a small stack purposely for growing Melons and a few other plants, such as pot Strawberries, which require similar heavy soil. A little well-rotted manure is sometimes added, but it should only be sparingly applied, or the soil may become too rich, and induce an over-luxuriant growth. The better plan is to give manure water after a crop of fruit is set, or to substitute a richer compost as a top-dressing, if an additional one is required, at the same period. The soil for Melons should be rammed very firm before planting time, or when an addition is made round their roots. It matters little how hard the bulk is made; roots readily permeate the whole, if kept quite moist, as it should be-at least, till the fruits begin to ripen.
Culture in Frames. Where a quantity of Melons have to be supplied, and houses suited for their culture are not obtainable, the ordinary pits and frames have, of necessity, to be utilised for growing them. In summer, this is not difficult, especially with some of the hardier sorts; but, in spring, there are many disadvantages in not being able to attend to the plants without having them exposed to the air. Pits for Melon culture may or may not be heated by hot water; in either case, the bottom heat is usually supplied by fermenting material, into which the roots are allowed to extend. This, and the soil, should be prepared, and put in a few days before the plants are inserted, in order that rank steam may escape, and everything become warmed to a suitable temperature. Some soil should be incorporated with the dung on the surface, and small mounds of soil alone made where it is intended to plant-say, under the centre of each sash, if there is sufficient space between for the plants to develop. In training Melon plants in frames, the points should be pinched out when the second or third rough leaf is expanded. Two branches will then proceed from the axils of the lower leaves; one should be trained towards the front, and the other towards the back of the frame. When these extremities are nearly reached, pinch out the points again, and fruiting laterals will be those next produced. The chief aim will then be to get enough flowers fertilised to eventually form a crop. This process, called "setting," is generally performed artificially, when the weather is fine, and plenty of air can be admitted. It consists in transferring dry pollen from the anthers of the male to the stigma of the female flowers, when both are in a fully expanded state. The operation may be performed by means of a camel's-hair pencil, or by detaching a male flower, removing its corolla, and applying the pollen direct. It is best to allow only one fruit on a lateral; if more are set, they should be removed. When any commence swelling with certainty, the lateral on which they are growing should be stopped at the point, and a piece of slate, or board, placed beneath each fruit, to keep it clean. The sub-lateral growths made afterwards must be kept somewhat thinned, so as to admit the sun and light necessary for perfecting the fruit. Cultivation in Houses. Although large numbers of Melons are grown successfully in frames, superior accommodation, in every way, is afforded in houses, the plants being fully under control for receiving the necessary attention. Houses used in winter for forcing or plant-growing, may be utilised throughout the spring and summer for Melons, if special provision cannot be made. For early supplies, small lean-to or half-span houses, about 10ft. wide, and facing south, are best adapted; and an ample supply of heat should be at command. Melons succeed much better with than without bottom heat. It is sometimes supplied by pipes fixed in the bed beneath where they are planted out; and, at others, by fermenting material placed to the depth of 2ft. or 3ft. Where pipes are in use, they should be surrounded with clinkers, or other material, through which the heat may pass readily to the soil in which the Melons are grown. This should be placed in mounds, not less than 4ft. apart, near the centre of the bed, and allowed to remain until thoroughly warmed through. The plants, having been previously prepared in pots, and not allowed to become starved, or infested with insects, may then be inserted, one in the middle of each mound, the collar being kept a little above the surface, and the soil pressed firmly round the roots. A trellis must be provided, about 1ft. from the glass, if one is not already fixed, and a stake placed at once to each plant, to prevent it getting broken. The training of Melons is differently practised in houses to what it is in frames. The main shoot is encouraged to grow nearly to the top of the trellis before being stopped. Side shoots, which then appear from the axil of nearly every leaf on the main stem, invariably bear female blossoms, and it is advisable, before any are fertilised, to wait until a sufficient number of these open at one time to form the crop. When one or two fruits are allowed to take the lead, they swell rapidly, and later ones frequently turn yellow, and drop off. About six fruits will be enough for plants occupying the space above given, and, if this number can be successfully fertilised about the same time, they will each have a good chance of swelling. A support must be placed beneath each fruit before it becomes very heavy, to prevent it breaking down, or, when getting ripe, becoming detached from the stalk, and falling. A small board, with a string or wire secured to each corner, for tying to the trellis, is a handy method much practised, the boards being equally useful for several fruits. Ripening will be indicated by the fruit parting from its stalk, changing colour, and emitting a strong perfume, not before observable. It may then be cut, laid for a time in the sun, and afterwards in a cool, airy fruit-room, until required for use. The period during which a Melon is at its best is a short one, and it is very important to know from experience, as near as possible, when this period is, and to send the fruit for dessert at the right time. Hastening or retarding the ripening process, to supply at certain dates, may be accomplished by exposing to a higher or lower temperature, which, in either case, should be a somewhat dry one.
Some growers cultivate Melons, in summer, on what is called the extension system, and many of the free-growing varieties succeed admirably when thus treated. A large house, in which the air is warmed by hot-water pipes, and the bed heated similarly, or with fermenting material, is planted with Melons in the usual way, or at greater distances apart, the object being to allow a less number of plants to grow without much restriction, and keep on producing fruits. Thus, if three plants are inserted, the centre one may be cropped and removed, and the others allowed to occupy the space afterwards; or the two permanent ones only may be inserted at first. Under this system, it will be necessary to have additional soil supplied, to keep the plants growing. Watering, so far as is requisite, must be continued, and air admitted more freely when successional fruits are being fertilised. It would be well for the inexperienced to try this plan before generally adopting it, as the treatment of plants respecting the ventilation, watering, and other details, must, of course, be different where the same house contains fruits in the several stages of flowering, swelling, and ripening. The advantage claimed is the larger, more juicy, and highly-flavoured fruit, because obtained from plants whose sap is allowed free circulation, consequent on less restriction being practised in training the branches.
Shading and Temperature. Seeds of Melons, when sown in pots, should be plunged in a bottom heat of about 75deg., either inside a dung frame or in a heated house. In the early part of the year, the young plants must be very carefully treated, by gradually exposing them to light before there is a possibility of their getting drawn. Later on in the season, as the days lengthen, they grow more strongly from the first. A light shading should be temporarily applied in hot weather, to prevent flagging; but Melons bear a good deal of sun without injury, if properly watered and ventilated. The temperature of the Melon house or pit, in spring, may be from 60deg. to 65deg. by night, with a rise of 10deg. by day. Air must be very cautiously admitted during March and April, and the house of pit shut up early on bright days, to take advantage of the sun heat. If the latter raises the temperature after closing to 90deg., when the plants are growing, and there is plenty of moisture about, no harm will be likely to result. During the flowering period, more air must be admitted, and a drier atmosphere maintained. In summer, but little fire heat need be given, and none will be necessary, as a rule, during the latter part of June and in July. Plenty of air should be given early in the day when a great heat is expected.
Watering. Melons require abundance of water and frequent syringing when they are growing freely. Both must be regulated according to the time of year, and the amount of light and sun heat available. All the water used for both purposes should either be heated, or allowed to stand and become warmed to the temperature of the house. In frames, where there is a depth of manure into which the roots penetrate, watering need not be so frequently practised as in houses, where a comparatively small mound of soil is placed above hot-water pipes. When the plants are growing, and also after the fruits are set, water should be frequently thrown about the passages and round the walls of the house, unless the weather be dull and wet; but when flowering, and so soon as ripening commences, the air and soil must be kept drier, and the fruits in the later stages allowed exposure to the sun, which materially contributes to their good flavour.
Insects, &c. The most injurious insect commonly found on Melons is Red Spider, very few batches of plants escaping its attack altogether. It is important to start with a clean house or pit, and also to have plants free from such a troublesome pest. In the early stages of growth, the leaves may be examined separately, at frequent intervals, and if any insects are detected, they may be carefully sponged off. The leaves are, however, so brittle that this cannot readily be performed without injury. The best plan of removing the insect is to syringe with as much force as the leaves allow, using soft rain water, which has been standing in the house to become warmed. Melon leaves will not withstand the use of insecticides that are applied to many other plants. Green or Black Fly, if allowed a footing, increase rapidly; consequently, their appearance should be watched for, and the usual remedy of fumigating with tobacco smoke applied. Some caution in this performance is necessary, as the leaves may be easily injured thereby.
Melons not unfrequently damp off, just at the neck of the plant. It is considered that one great cause of this disease-if it really is one-is a close and over-moistened atmosphere. The remedy of constant ventilation, if only very slight, will naturally be suggested, and a little powdered lime and charcoal, applied when the first symptoms are seen, will often dry up the affected tissues, and prevent further injury. The stem and roots are also sometimes attacked by canker, which is not generally observable until the leaves give indications by flagging, and the plants die in a short time. A small nematoid worm, also, now and then, attacks the roots, living inside the tissues, and causing them to decay. The injured parts, or, better still, the whole plant and roots, should be burned, and the use of any part of the soil avoided for a future crop. Unhealthy plants, or those subjected to checks from improper airing, watering, or other causes, are most liable to canker; sturdy, free-growing ones are far less frequently attacked.
Sorts. There are few kinds of fruit amongst which natural or artificial cross-fertilisation is practised with greater ease for the production of new varieties, than amongst Melons; hence the appearance of such a numerous quantity of so-called new or improved sorts each year. A few of the old ones are only with difficulty surpassed; and a selection from those of recent years presents a standard of excellence, on every point, which it is most desirable to maintain. Deterioration soon takes place, and good varieties may readily be lost by allowing their fruits to be cross-fertilised; consequently, it is well to keep raising some new ones, with a view of, at least, preserving a high standard, and, possibly, further improving it. A thin skin, quality, size, and productiveness, are the most important properties. If one or two sorts are found to suit in these particulars, they should be grown; others should only be admitted for experiment, unless proved to be superior. The Cantaloup Melon is supposed to have been one of the first ever cultivated in Europe. It has a remarkably irregular surface, and both the skin and flesh are variable in colour. Coulommier's Melon is only remarkable for its hardiness and the size of its fruits; it is cultivated, almost without shelter, in the open fields in Normandy, &c. The Embroidered Market Melon also a netted variety, bears a large nearly spherical fruit, with orange, or reddish-orange flesh; the ribs are not prominent. The Figari is an ornamental and small-fruited Melon, probably of African origin. Its obovoid fruits are scarcely as large as a medium-sized hen's egg; they are smooth and yellow when ripe, and exhale a very decided Melon odour, but are not edible, being only cultivated for ornament, garnishing, &c. The Persian Melon has elongated pear-shaped fruits, of medium size, without ribs, not, or only slightly, netted; the rind is yellow, marbled with dark green; the flesh is greenish-white, and very sugary; this sort keeps a long time. Queen Anne's Pocket, or Dudaim does not differ markedly in foliage and habit from ordinary Melons, but its very small round fruits, marbled with brown on an orange or orange-red ground, distinguish it at once from all others; it is probably of African origin. The fruits, when ripe, have a very strong odour, but are not edible; they are only of use for garnishing and decorative purposes. The Winter Melon is the largest of the white-fleshed kinds, but is also one of the least desirable. The fruit is elliptic, more or less elongated, rarely subspherical, with a smooth or faintly netted skin, and thick flesh; it varies much in size and colour, the latter ranging from dark green to creamy-white or yellow. This sort is cultivated in open fields in the South of Europe.
Melons are usually divided into two, and sometimes into three, classes, according to the colour of their flesh inside the skin. For all practical purposes, the two under which the subjoined limited selection of varieties are classed, are amongst the best in cultivation. Doubtless, there are very many others considered of equal or superior merit, according to the views of different cultivators and consumers of the fruit.
Class I. Green and White-fleshed.
Cashmere (Meredith's). Fruit medium or large, oval, slightly ribbed; skin thin, yellow when ripe, not much netted, flesh nearly white, very juicy, and of excellent flavour. An old variety, but, when well grown, one of the best in cultivation.
Colston Bassett Seedling. Fruit slightly obovate; skin yellow, beautifully netted; flesh whitish, melting, very juicy.
Eastnor Castle. Fruit medium or large, from 3lb. to 4lb. in weight; skin pale yellow; flesh melting, and very rich. A free grower and bearer; one of the best, but does not keep long.
Gilbert's Green-fleshed. Fruit large, oval, greenish-yellow; flesh melting and juicy.
Golden Gem (Cox's). Fruit round, yellow, netted; flesh whitish-green, of good flavour.
Golden Queen. Fruit medium, round; skin thin, golden-yellow, beautifully netted; flesh very juicy. Plant of a hardy constitution. Hero of Lockinge. Fruit medium; skin rich golden-yellow, with white lacing; flesh white, melting, of very fine flavour. An excellent variety, either for pits or houses.
Queen Emma. Flesh almost white, tender, and melting, with thin rind. A large, handsome, free-bearing variety, of strong constitution. Victory of Bath (Gilbert's). Fruit large, slightly oval; skin greenish-yellow, not much netted; flesh green, juicy, and richly flavoured. Plant of moderate growth.
William Tillery. Fruit large, handsome; skin dark green, thin; flesh pale green, juicy, sweet, and of excellent quality. One of the best varieties if well grown.
Class II. Scarlet-fleshed.
Blenheim Orange. Fruit medium or large, and of excellent flavour. Plant of good constitution, and remarkably prolific; one of the best of this class. Read's Scarlet-fleshed. Fruit medium size, beautifully netted, more oblong than Scarlet Gem; flesh solid, and of good quality. An old but excellent sort. Scarlet Gem. Fruit nearly round, handsomely netted all over. A constant, free-bearing variety, of excellent flavour.
Scarlet Premier. Fruit handsome, slightly oval, highly coloured and beautifully netted; flesh solid, thick, having a delicate aroma.