Onion
(Allium Cepa). There are few vegetable crops of greater importance, or more in daily request, than that of the Onion. It is a native of Central Asia, &c. Until recently (comparatively speaking), the origin of the plant was unknown. It is a hardy biennial, as, although the leaves and roots are only of annual duration, the bulb formed in the summer, after being kept for a greater or less time, according as the different varieties admit, has the power of renewing its growth by forming fresh roots and leaves, and producing its flowers and seeds; after-wards, it dies away. Onions have been cultivated from the most remote period, throughout an extremely wide geographical area. Their uses are well and universally known, both in the green young state, and also, more especially, when the bulbs are matured. Much variation exists in the shape and flavour of bulbs belonging to different varieties; some being very mild and succulent, while others are pungent, almost, at times, to an intense degree. An Onion bulb is composed of a series of concentric coats, which surround its growing point, and vary in colour from dark red almost to white, the flavour being generally much stronger in the red than in the whiter-fleshed varieties. Propagation of the several sorts is readily effected by seeds, which, however, soon degenerate if care is not taken; in some cases, also, offsets are produced, and may be utilised as a method of increase. CULTIVATION. One of the best and most open situations in the kitchen garden should be assigned to Onions, as such a position is indispensable for their successful cultivation. They succeed best in a rich, loamy soil, somewhat light rather than heavy, and where the subsoil is of a fairly dry nature. The suitability of a light or a heavy soil, however, depends a good deal on whether the summer is a wet or a dry one; and indifferent soils may be much improved by the addition of suitable manures, and by a system of intercropping, or changing of ground, so that different vegetables are not grown, if it can be avoided, in the same division of the garden two years in succession. For instance, Onions sown in spring could scarcely be better suited, as to position and soil, than by land occupied the previous year with Celery; autumn-sown ones might follow Potatoes, Peas, Beans, or any of the Brassica tribe; and thus a change of crop would be effected. Especially should this change be allowed in the case of Onions, when the produce becomes cankered in any one situation, or the plants are attacked by the destructive maggot of the Onion Fly. Land intended for Onions should be well-trenched in the autumn, and left in ridges for the winter fully exposed to the weather, which will wonderfully ameliorate and improve that of a firm texture, or heavy and adhesive nature, before the seed-sowing time arrives. Where a crop of Celery has been grown, trenching will scarcely be necessary; the deep digging and manuring requisite for Celery culture being sufficient to intermix and change the position of nearly the whole of the soil. A good dressing of manure should be applied at trenching time, or dug in at the same season, if trenching is unnecessary. A few words on the best manures. The scrapings obtained from poultry yards, or from pigeon-houses, have long been considered as excellent manures for adding to land intended for Onions. Sheep-dung and pig-dung, where either can be obtained, are also powerful and good. Mixed farmyard manure may be used in large quantities for a preceding crop, or else it should be well dug in during the autumn. Guano or blood should be mixed in a compost, if either are used; or the latter may be added to water, and applied in weak solutions as a liquid manure. Charred rubbish, wood ashes, and charcoal are beneficial in several ways; salt and soot are also excellent to sow with the seed, as, besides acting as a manure, they prevent, to a great extent, the attacks of insects.
Spring-sown Onions. Land exposed in ridges throughout the winter will be in excellent condition for levelling down about the middle or end of February, supposing the weather is fine; it should not, however, be worked when in a wet state. The whole surface is best if lightly dug over with a spade or fork, and the soil thoroughly broken and levelled, so that raking will be unnecessary for securing a fairly uniform surface. If the soil is as dry as it should be, and moderately light, it may then be well trodden or rolled previous to preparing drills for the seed. Onions succeed and form the best bulbs on firm ground, and the seeds should be but lightly covered. A custom which was at one time in general practice, namely, that of sowing them in narrow beds, and cutting alleys between, is, apparently, fast becoming obsolete, and the crop cultivated in an open quarter instead. Shallow drills should be drawn 1ft. apart, and of as near as possible an even depth, the seeds scattered thinly along them, and lightly covered. The whole surface may then be trodden over again, in a direction at right angles to the lines of seed; or rough stones, &c., may be removed carefully with a wooden rake, and the bed afterwards rolled. Divisions may readily be made, if they are desired, and beds of any size formed, by omitting to sow a line at each of the given distances of so many feet width. It is important that the foregoing operations should only be performed in fine weather, and when the soil is in a workable condition. The principal sowing should be made as early as possible in the month of March as various circumstances and the weather permit; but, if frost, snow, or heavy rains prevail, it is best to defer the operation till the middle of the month. The after-treatment will chiefly consist in keeping weeds removed, and in thinning out the Onions gradually, when large enough, until they are from 3in. to 6in. apart; if extrasized specimens are desired, a greater distance should be allowed at the final thinning. Deep hoeing, so beneficial to most kitchen garden crops, is not so to Onions, as the object with these is to keep the ground solid, so that the bulbs may be the more enlarged on its surface than they would be likely to become if surrounded with soil. Narrow hoes may be lightly used between the rows; but hand-weeding is best in the lines, and thinning of the crop should also preferably be done by hand. In very dry seasons, watering is at times advisable; but it should never be practised when the plants show signs of forming thick necks instead of their proper bulbs. The system of sowing in drills 1ft. apart has many advantages over the old method of scattering the seeds broadcast, as sufficient space is thereby afforded the plants on either side, and weeding, thinning, and all other necessary attention are much more readily bestowed. A little soot, applied thinly over an Onion bed with the hand in showery weather, is of material help to the crop when growing; to use it in dry weather would be unsafe, on account of its burning properties. Towards the latter part of summer, when the tops begin to bend down and show signs of dying away, it is time to pull up the bulbs. For this operation, advantage should be taken of dry weather, and the bulbs laid with their bases towards the sun, on a hard surface if possible, where they can be turned over occasionally and thoroughly dried before being stored. Different varieties are best kept and stored separate from each other, as their keeping qualities vary considerably. Those calculated to keep longest should especially be thoroughly ripened and dried. They are best tied up in bunches, and suspended to the rafters of a cool, dry, shed or loft where frost is merely excluded. If placed in a position exposed to heat, to much moisture, or even hung against the walls of a shed, new growth would be encouraged, and the bulbs would soon be useless in consequence. Where a large quantity of Onions are grown, and time cannot be spared for tying them up, they may be stored, several bulbs deep, in a similar place to that above recommended, and be encased with a covering of clean, dry straw. Long-keeping varieties thus treated are sometimes preserved in good condition until late in spring. Autumn-sown Onions. Onions may be sown in autumn for two purposes: first, for pickling or for drawing as required for use in spring; and, secondly, for the purpose of transplanting at the latter season. Spring-sown bulbs grow to a large size, under good cultivation, by the autumn; after they have been allowed a resting season, instead of further enlarging, they invariably tend to produce a flower-stem. But if seeds of a large-growing, early sort are sown thickly towards the latter part of summer, so that time is only allowed them to form very small bulbs, these may be stored and replanted in March, with the result that a large proportion, at least, will enlarge so as to form finer specimens the following year than could be secured in a similar soil and position, in one season from spring-sown seeds. Again, earlier and finer produce may be obtained by sowing in August or early in September, and transplanting in the new year so soon as weather permits. All varieties are about as hardy as each other; none are secure against a very severe winter, without being sown in a warm position or provided with some protection. The Tripoli or Italian Onions require a long season to ripen perfectly, and are, consequently, best sown in autumn; White or Silver-skinned varieties are also valuable for autumn sowing, as, under such treatment, they form useful bulbs early the following season. Any of the varieties that succeed well, when spring-sown, may also be considered equally good for autumn sowing. The ground should be prepared in a manner somewhat similar to that already detailed, but the seed drills should be made rather deeper, to guard against frost lifting out the plants in winter. In the process of transplanting, the roots should be preserved as much as possible. On a small scale, little trenches may be made, and the roots only inserted, leaving the plant above the surface; but where large quantities have to be transplanted, the dibber must be brought into requisition. A greater or less proportion of any autumn-sown Onions invariably run to seed, as might be expected from their natural habit of flowering the year after being sown. Spanish Onions, so largely imported into, and highly esteemed in, this country, are cultivated chiefly from seeds, sown thinly, in a warm situation, about November, protected with mats, &c., afterwards, and transplanted into rich soil about April. These varieties deteriorate under cultivation in this country, probably from being insufficiently hardy to withstand our climate.
Seed-sowing of Onions for Pickling. Silver-skinned varieties of Onion are preferred for pickling, on account of their flesh being nearly white, and of a better appearance than when coloured. Two-bladed--so named because of its peculiarity in only producing two blades or leaves--is a very small and an early variety most useful for pickling purposes. Seeds may be sown in early spring, and also in autumn, in a bed where the soil is poor rather than rich, the object being to get a large quantity of bulbs; the smaller they are, the better. The seeds should be scattered broadcast for pickling Onions, thickly, but, at the same time, as evenly as possible, and thinning-out will be unnecessary.
Seed-saving. Only specimens of a good shape and of large size, according to the variety, should be selected for seed-production. Varieties or forms soon deteriorate, if selection is not rigidly practised. Plant the bulbs in good soil, and in a sheltered position, early in February, and tie up the flower stalks as soon as they require support. When the seed vessels turn brown, and begin to burst, cut the heads, and dry them in the sun; or place in paper bags, and suspend them, head downwards, from the roof of a dry, cool shed. The seeds keep fairly well for two years, but cannot be depended upon afterwards. FUNGI. Onions, and their allies, Leeks, Chives, &c., are liable to be much injured by the growth on them of several kinds of parasitic Fungi, which belong to groups noted for the harm done by them to cultivated plants. Each group is described under the headings noted below; hence, we shall not give any full account of the species here, but shall refer our readers to those headings. All the Fungi bore into and through the tissues of the host-plants; hence, no external applications are of much use. The best thing to be done is, therefore, to remove and burn all the affected plants, in order to prevent the spread of the disease. The most hurtful species of Fungi on Onions are: (1) The Onion Brand (Puccinia minta = P. Allii), which produces yellow and brown patches of spores on the leaves and flower-stalks (see Puccinia); (2) the Onion Smut (Urocystis cepulae), filling the bulbs with a black mass of spores (see Urocystis); (3) the Onion Mildew (Peronospora Schleideniana), which causes a whitish-grey bloom on all the young leaves, and fills all parts with its mycelium (see Peronospora); and (4) the Onion Mould (Mucor subtilissimus), which penetrates the tissues at the top of the bulb, and also of the bulb itself, and forms in them multitudes of small black bodies (sclerotia) like grains of gunpowder. These emit mycelial tubes in moisture; and, when the tubes reach the air, the branches form, at their tips, small bladders (sporangia), full of spores, which are set free by the bursting of the bladders.
SORTS. There are over twenty sorts of Onions which may be considered distinct, and forms of one or another of these are in some cases named as new kinds almost indefinitely. The majority answer equally well for sowing both in spring and autumn; but there are some that do not obtain a season sufficiently long to ripen them, unless sown in the autumn. Of these the Tripoli, or Italian, and Lisbon varieties are examples; the whole of the Silver-skinned section (except for pickling purposes), may also be sown in autumn with good results, as they form bulbs so early the following spring. Spring-sown Onions are, generally speaking, the most important as a crop, and the majority of cultivators who have not to maintain a continuous supply, limit their operations to the one season's growth. Produce of medium size, so long as it is solid and thoroughly ripened before being stored, is, as a rule, more useful for ordinary purposes than large specimens; size and shape are, however, most important conditions where exhibiting is practised.
Brown Globe. Bulbs of medium size, somewhat globular, with high crown and dark or reddish-brown skins. An excellent keeping variety, and one which is much esteemed. MAGNUM BONUM is a good form of this.
Deep Blood-red. Bulbs of medium size, or rather small, flattened, and generally of an even outline; the inner part is pure white, while the outer coats vary in colour from dull, to deep glossy, red. A very strong-flavoured, solid Onion, and an excellent keeper.
Deptford. Bulbs medium, flattened or oblate, with a small neck; skin dark reddish-brown; flesh solid, tinged with red. A good keeping variety, of excellent quality; very hardy, and ripens early. SYN. Brown Spanish.
Early White Naples. An early form of the Silver-skinned section, excellent for sowing in autumn, as it produces useful little bulbs early in spring. SYN. Early Nocera. PARIS SILVER-SKIN is very similar to this, but is somewhat later in forming bulbs. It does not keep long.
Flat Tripoli. Bulb large, roundish, with a thick neck; flesh reddish, soft, of mild and excellent quality, but soon decays after being stored. Should be sown in autumn.
Giant White Tripoli. Bulb large, flattened, with an irregular base; skin silvery-white; flesh greenish-white, of very mild flavour. Plant strong and robust, attaining a very large size, when sown in autumn and transplanted.
Globe Tripoli. Bulb globular, with a thick neck, very large; flesh white, mild, of excellent quality. Plant of strong growth. The varieties of Tripoli Onion are not good keepers, but are very useful in summer and early autumn.
James's Keeping. This is sometimes considered as a form or synonym of BROWN GLOBE. It is, however, well marked in most samples by being more of a pear-shape. One of the best and longest keeping varieties, and one much esteemed.
Lisbon. Bulb large, globular, with rather thick neck. Useful for spring salads, if sown in autumn, but not generally recommended.
Naples Giant Rocca. Bulb large, roundish, regular in outline; flesh white, thick, and of good quality. A desirable sort, of robust growth; ripens and keeps well.
Queen. A small and very early variety of the Silver-skinned section, which forms bulbs very quickly, perhaps quicker than any other. Sown early in March, it is full grown by June; and it is also highly recommended for autumn sowing. The bulbs are small, but very firm and solid, and keep well; skin thin, silvery-white. The plant has rarely more than two or three leaves. SYN. New Queen.
Silver-skin. Much like PARIS SILVER-SKIN, or EARLY WHITE NAPLES. The bulbs ripen and keep well into the winter. This variety and all in the section are most desirable, and of greatest use for pickling.
Trebons. Bulbs very large, obovate, tapering to the stalk or neck; flesh pale and rather soft, but of mild and excellent quality. A first-rate Onion, of fine appearance, resembling very closely the imported Spanish variety. It is one of the best for autumn sowing, and succeeds most favourably in warm seasons.
Two-bladed. The true two-leaved type has small roundish bulbs of a dull yellowish-brown colour; they are about 1in. in diameter, firm, ripen early, and keep well. Much grown for pickling on account of its small size.
Wethersfield Red. Bulbs large, flattened, or oblate, of even and regular outline; outer skin dull red or purplish; inner flesh pure white. A handsome American variety--perhaps the best of all the red Onions--of excellent quality, and good keeping properties.
White Globe. Bulbs of medium size, globular or obovate, with a high crown. A much-esteemed, and good-keeping sort, similar in many respects to WHITE SPANISH, but of a different shape.
White Spanish. Bulbs large, flattened, base broad, and sometimes a little hollow and uneven; skin pale straw-colour, and falls off readily; flesh solid, almost white, and of first-rate quality. This is the type of Onion most largely cultivated. It generally keeps in good condition up till late in spring. Of the numerous forms, the following are recommended as being the best: ANGLO WHITE SPANISH, BANBURY, NUNEIIAM PARK, READING, and ROUSHAM PARK HERO.
Yellow Danvers. Bulbs of medium size, with small base and fine slender neck; flesh very firm throughout, of fine quality. A fine and distinct variety, which ripens off freely and keeps well.
The following are varieties of Onion that are distinct in habit from those already enumerated. They are useful to grow in small quantities, as sometimes they come in when others are not procurable.
Egyptian, Tree, or Bulb-bearing Onion (GARDEN ROCAMBOLE). This throws up a stem from the bulb, which has to be planted, and produces a number of small bulbules, about the size of marbles, on the top, that are excellent for pickling. Offset bulbs are also formed underground; and from these, and the other small ones produced on the stem, the variety is propagated.
Perennial Tree or Top Onion. This is somewhat similar to the EGYPTIAN, but the bulbules are smaller, and none are produced underground. The plant is perennial, and has long, fibrous roots.
Potato or Underground Onion. A variety cultivated something like Shallots. Small bulbs are planted singly, and around them new ones are formed. They are of irregular shape, of fair quality, and useful for an early supply. This variety is not propagated from seeds.
Welsh Onion. This is a herbaceous perennial, with long, fibrous roots; it forms no bulbs. There are two varieties, the Red and the Green, cultivated for the use of their tops, or leaves. Propagated by seeds, or by division of the roots.