The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening

Every genus a Victorian gardener could grow — Abelia to Zygopetalum across four volumes, with each plant's history, species, and culture, by the Curator of Kew.

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Orchard

There are few gardens connected with private mansions that are of sufficient size for accommodating enough fruit-trees--such as Apples, Pears, Plums, &c.--to maintain a supply of fruits equal to the demands usually made. Orchards have, therefore, to be formed and established; sometimes for the special purpose of meeting such deficiencies, at others for cultivating to supply the market in addition; and again, in some parts, for the main object of procuring Apples to make, or convert into, cider. Those only required for cultivating fruits to supplement the garden crops are naturally best to be situated near the garden, and placed under the gardener's charge. They might contain, if the soil were tilled, small fruits of all descriptions that succeed, in addition to those above-named, and also many trees in size, shape, and variety that would be inadmissible in an Orchard where cattle were allowed. Various circumstances, such as the want of a proper site, or a suitable soil, may, however, render this arrangement--much akin to market gardening, although the produce need not be grown for sale--undesirable, and the best alternative is usually that of utilising a portion of farm land, varying in size according to requirements or the space available. The best of the produce in Orchards connected with private gardens has annually to be stored in the garden fruit-room, and the possibility of gathering and storing it at once in fine weather, without the fruits getting bruised, also the general overlooking of the crop throughout the season, are points greatly in favour of having the Orchard in near proximity. The farm Orchard is best to be laid down in grass, as the cost in the first place, and also subsequent management, will be much less than if the land were tilled. Grass should not, however, be grown for haymaking if it can be avoided, as this affects fruit-trees considerably, and most unfavourably; it should be kept short, preferably by being eaten off by cattle, such as sheep, or young stock that are being fattened. Horses should on no account be allowed if any branches are within their reach. As a general rule, fruit-trees in Orchards have, of necessity, to withstand, or at least be subjected to, more exposure than others situated inside a garden, unless the position of the latter is a most unfavourable one in respect of shelter. Only sorts of proved hardiness in the locality must, therefore, be selected for planting, and such as are calculated to withstand a more or less open situation, and produce crops with tolerable certainty when once established. It is well known that various localities materially affect different sorts of fruit, particularly Pears; in fact, there are but few good varieties of these latter that succeed at all as standards, except in most favoured parts. In the Midland and Northern counties, the number would be extremely limited if it were restricted to those only which are really suitable. The chief Orchard fruit-tree is, of course, that of the Apple, and as varieties of hardy constitution, which produce large, handsome fruits, suitable both for kitchen use or dessert, are now so numerous, none of an inferior character need be included. Still, it is almost certain that all will not succeed alike under similar treatment, and selection will also have to be made in accordance with the purpose for which crops are required, whether they are supplementary to those of the garden, and intended for private use, or grown more especially with a view to supplying the market. Orchards on a large scale are mainly planted with a view to disposing of the greater portion of fruit in the local, or in that of one of the great central, markets, and it will, in such cases, be advisable to know, at the outset, the sorts of fruits that are most in demand, as well as those which succeed best. Where the land is laid down in grass, and cattle admitted, the form of tree is limited to standards, unless provision is made for protecting the lower parts of any of another description. If the soil is tilled, and a sort of market garden system introduced, standards may, if desired, still occupy similar positions--though they would be better at greater distances apart--and the intervening spaces planted with trees of another shape, and such bush fruits as Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, &c. A considerable amount more labour is involved, as before stated, in attending to a tilled Orchard, than is requisite for one laid in grass; and this, with the character of the soil, and the value and possible demand for fruit of various sorts when grown, must be considered when an Orchard of either description is in course of formation. Besides the fruits already named, Cherries and Plums are largely represented in Orchards, in at least several of the English counties. Speaking generally, Cherries are not of much use to plant on a small scale, or even at all in most parts, as standard trees, in the open. Temporary protection cannot be afforded them, when thus situated, for preventing injury to the flowers by spring frosts, and great havoc is also caused by birds amongst the buds, as well as amongst the ripe fruits. Where the trees are known to succeed naturally in Orchards respecting the first-named condition, they may be planted in sufficient quantity to make it worth while having them looked after when the fruits are ripening, and both seasons would be greatly shortened by planting only one variety. Plums (under which Damsons may also be included) are limited in varieties suitable for culture in Orchards, especially such as are laid down in grass, many of the branches being situated so near the ground. Their fruits are, however, much in demand, and, in seasons when good crops can be secured, they usually prove more remunerative than most other supplies of home-grown Orchard produce. Damson-trees frequently attain a good size, and bear prodigious crops in favourable seasons; they should be planted rather close together, as the heads do not usually spread much; and, the wood being rather brittle, is less likely to get broken by heavy gales than if the trees were inserted as isolated specimens. Nuts may also be included amongst Orchard fruits, as they will succeed in nearly all situations and localities if their blossoms of both sexes escape destruction by spring frosts. If, however, there are Squirrels, or other depredators, about, it is of little use attempting to grow Nuts; at any rate, not as a profitable crop. A specimen or two of Quince-trees, and also of Medlars, should be provided with a place, as, although their fruits are not much in demand, a few are generally acceptable. The trees are also in keeping with the other occupants of an Orchard, and are, at least (apart from the use of their fruits), distinct and ornamental subjects, on account of their flowers and, in the case of the Medlar, beautifully-coloured foliage in autumn.

Soil and Situation. In the formation of an Orchard, the first points for consideration are those of soil and situation, the first-named being perhaps the most important of the two, although, in some respects, the other is not of secondary consequence. Drainage is of primary importance, and must be insured, either by a subsoil of a gravelly nature, by the natural disposition of the land, or by drains inserted specially for the purpose. No fruit-trees will succeed properly if stagnant water is allowed in or about the soil surrounding their roots. Respecting different soils, there are few in which the most important of Orchard fruits, Apples, will not thrive to a greater or less extent, as evidenced by such a quantity being grown, without special attention, in all parts of the country. The best and most lasting results, however, are obtained in well-drained land where the soil is of a good depth, and somewhat strong. Light or sandy soils tend to induce trees to bear good crops, but only for a short period, compared with those of a more holding nature. In some localities, there is little to choose from; but in others, great variation exists, even in a very limited area. Where subsoils are gravelly, and, consequently, naturally drained, it might, and most likely would, be very unwise to insert pipes, as by them too much water would be conducted away, and the trees, unless the rainfall were unusually heavy, would be unable to withdraw sufficient moisture to meet their requirements. The situation best suited for an Orchard is a gentle slope to the south or south-west. It is not advisable to select an eastern exposure, as, although the early morning sun is most desirable for many reasons, it frequently adds to the destruction, by frost, of fruit blossoms in spring, by causing the latter, when frozen, to thaw too rapidly. Shelter is of material importance, and, where it exists naturally, due advantage should, if possible, be taken of the site, provided other conditions are favourable. Much may frequently be done towards providing shelter to an Orchard, by planting a belt of quick-growing forest-trees--Larch or Poplars, for instance-at a safe distance away on the north and eastern sides, whence destructive winds proceed. These trees must not, however, be planted close enough for their roots to impoverish the cultivated ground. Orchard fruit-trees shelter each other to a certain degree when established, if they are not planted too far apart. To get them up to this stage, some protection will invariably be necessary; and, should the site be unfavourably situated in this respect, it must be provided, if only to the extent of planting a high hedge, to serve as a break against rough, cold winds. Exposure to full sun and light on the south side is recommended, as it is important that the wood of fruit-trees in a bearing state should be thoroughly ripened in summer for the next year, as well as the fruit of the current year. Spring frosts are far less injurious when the blossoms are strong and the wood firm, than when both are in the reverse condition. Planting. This operation will depend somewhat on whether the land between the standard trees is to be laid down in grass, or dug and occupied with other crops and dwarf fruit-trees. If a piece of pasture land is taken for converting into an Orchard, without destroying the turf, it is most important that good-sized holes be dug out, so that the roots may be spread carefully, to their full length, in planting, and the soil moved for a considerable space round further than the distance to which they extend. Young trees would, however, be likely to succeed better were the land for an Orchard well broken up by deep ploughing, or, maybe, on a large scale, by steam cultivation, previous to being planted. The intervening space, to within a short distance of the trees, might then be annually cropped with such things as Potatoes or Turnips, but not with grain of any sort. As the trees get old enough for their heads to overshadow crops beneath, their roots will also have similarly extended, and the whole surface may then be sown with grass seeds, and changed into pasture. In tilled Orchards, where it is not intended to admit cattle at any time, the land between standard trees may be planted with others grown in bush or pyramid form, or with those usually termed small fruits. Standard fruit-trees for Orchards should have stems about 5ft. high, and be planted from 16ft. to 20ft. apart. A greater distance than this is sometimes recommended; but, as a rule, it is unnecessary, even for the admission of light and air, and the trees do not shelter each other so much as when they are somewhat closer together. November, if weather permits, is, perhaps, the best season for planting Orchards; but, if the operation cannot be conducted at this season, any favourable time up to the end of February may be selected, providing the weather is not frosty. No fruit-tree should be planted too deeply in the soil, with the idea of preventing its removal by the wind; a stake to each--in the case of standards, at least--must be provided for this purpose. The same depth as that to which the trees have previously been planted is usually a fairly good guide--say, from 3in. to 4in. of soil above the roots. Any newly-planted fruit-tree, over which the wind may have power, should, apart from being well trodden in, be securely staked, either temporarily or permanently, as the case may be; a little hay or moss, or a piece of old gutta-percha piping, should be placed where each tie is made, to prevent the bark being injured in tying, or afterwards by chafing. It is impossible for young roots to obtain a hold, if the trees are allowed to sway about, and break them off so soon as formed. A mulching of half-rotten manure, or anything of a non-conducting description, should always be applied to the surface so soon as the planting is finished; and watering occasionally, or, perhaps, frequently, according to the season, will doubtless be necessary throughout the following summer.

If the soil is of itself workable, as it should be, and fairly good, it would be best used alone around the roots of newly-planted trees. Manure is frequently very injurious in such a position, when it might be made of great benefit by being placed above, where its goodness could descend, and afford nourishment after some new root-growth were made. Feeding with manure may, at times, be carried to an excess; as, for instance, when strong, sappy growths are produced, instead of firm, short-jointed ones. A free growth should by all means be encouraged, particularly in young trees; but it is desirable that the wood should become well ripened in any case, and it is a necessity in trees large enough for bearing.

Pruning is not very much required in Orchards, except a little cutting back the first year or two, to insure evenly-balanced heads, and just enough thinning afterwards to prevent overcrowding. Much finer fruits are obtained from such fruit-trees as those planted in Orchards, when they are allowed to grow freely and naturally, always provided there is plenty of space for the admission of sun, air, and light.

Selections of Fruits for Orchards. Fruit-trees, as standards, to bear the exposure of an Orchard, must, of necessity, be free-growing, and of a hardy constitution, the degree of hardiness necessary being regulated somewhat by the locality. A list of such varieties of the principal fruits as are, from their strong-growing and generally productive nature, calculated to succeed, when treated in the way referred to, can only, therefore, be given.

Apples. Alfriston, Beauty of Kent, Blenheim Orange, Cellini, Devonshire Quarrenden, Duchess of Oldenburg, Dumelow's Seedling, Fearn's Pippin, Golden Winter Pearmain, Hawthornden, Herefordshire Pearmain, Kentish Fillbasket, Keswick Codlin, Lane's Prince Albert, Lord Suffield, Manks Codlin, Mere de Menage, Northern Greening, Small's Admirable, Stirling Castle, Tower of Glammis, Warner's King, Worcester Pearmain, Wormsley Pippin, Yorkshire Greening.

Cherries. Adams' Crown, Bigarreau, Bigarreau Napoleon, Black Eagle, Buttner's Black Heart, Downton, Elton, Kentish, Knight's Early Black, Late Duke, May Duke, Morello.

Damsons. Cluster or Crittenden, Common, Farleigh Prolific, Prune, Rivers's Early.

Pears. Autumn Bergamot, Beurre Capiaumont, Doyenne Boussoch, Fertility, Hessle, Jargonelle, Jersey Gratioli, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Swan's Egg, Williams' Bon Chretien, Windsor, Winter Nelis.

Plums. Diamond, Early Orleans, Goliath, Pond's Seedling, Prince of Wales, Victoria.

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