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Pruning (Standard Pear-trees require)

Standard Pear-trees require but little attention in pruning, except in thinning out when it becomes necessary, and in shortening or removing irregular or weak growths. If allowed to grow naturally and somewhat erect, they soon form good heads, and commence bearing. Young standards may be cut back, after being planted, to within about 6in. of where the grafts were inserted; and, if six main branches can be formed, they will be found sufficient, and should be allowed to extend. If bush trees are not allowed to form a central shoot, material assistance will be given in strengthening all the branches; these should not be shortened until the desired size of tree is obtained, and their limit is reached. Bush-shaped trees, grafted on Quince stocks, are never inclined to produce strong wood, especially when in full bearing, and are very easily managed. In form, established pyramids require to have an upright stem, and each main branch, from the top downward, should be shorter, horizontally, than the one immediately below it. To establish and train large pyramids with an even outline, requires considerable experience in pruning, and a great deal of attention to keep the main side branches regulated and the flow of sap evenly distributed. All the laterals formed in and about the centre must be pinched or otherwise removed in summer, in order that the branches and their foliage may receive the amount of sun and air which they require. Pyramids are specially inclined to form a mass of shoots if this is not attended to, and success with trees thus trained depends greatly on the proper and timely execution of summer pruning. Most sorts of Pears are naturally inclined to form a semi-pyramidal habit of themselves; and where the necessity of preserving an even outline is unimportant, the trees may be allowed to grow almost naturally, after being started as pyramids at a nursery. Horizontal and espalier-trained trees require pruning somewhat similar to each other. Young trees should be encouraged to grow strongly by allowing their shoots to proceed without being shortened. During the latter part of summer, all lateral growths should be pinched or cut back to about five joints, beginning with the upper branches, and, after a few days' interval, doing those lower down. This will allow of the free admission of light and air, to assist in the formation of fruit spurs, and additional sap will also be diverted to the whole of the branches left. Cordons of any shape should also be allowed to grow without any shortening whatever being practised on the leading growths when once they are fairly well started, and are of about equal strength. Mr. Rivers' system of pruning cordons, which he has frequently proved, and justly considers very simple, is as follows: "In June, stop the more robust shoots to four or five buds, leaving the well-balanced shoots untouched; in September, when the fruit has attained its proper size and colour, prune all the shoots down to three eyes. Under this system, the cordons look rather straggling and untidy during the summer, but neat enough in the autumn and winter. I believe that, by the exercise of moderation in pinching, the growth is more equally distributed; at all events, my cordons, whether single, double, upright, five-branched, or lateral, have produced an abundant crop of fine fruit, and I can recommend the system as perfectly sound."

Spur-pruning consists in shortening back and reducing the number of spurs, when they are too numerous, or project too far from the branch. A spur is a short side branch, which either has proper blossom-buds at its apex, or only imperfectly-formed buds that elongate but slowly, compared with ordinary wood-producing shoots. It has already been stated that the fruit of the Pear is borne on spurs. The system or mode of bearing is shown in Fig. 48. It frequently happens that a tree has very numerous spurs, but only a few that are set with blossom-buds. The other slender ones produce leaves only, and, when they become numerous, it is more likely that they will, if allowed, still further increase, rather than diminish, as time goes on. To prevent this, and encourage the formation of more blossom-buds, such spurs should be thinned in winter, and cut back nearly close on the upper branches, at the same time thinning and shortening somewhat less severely those on the middle and lower branches respectively. This tends to cause the sap to be more evenly distributed over all parts of the tree, which further conduces to change numerous barren spurs into fruitful ones.

Root-pruning has a wonderful influence on Pear-trees worked on the Pear stock, when they become unfruitful from over-luxuriance, or because of their roots having entered a cold and unfavorable sub-soil. The Quince, being of weaker growth, curtails the supply of sap, which thus restricts the undue vigour of shoots, and causes a more generally fruitful habit. Hence, trees worked on it do not require root-pruning so frequently to insure fertility, as do those on the Pear. If trees requiring root-pruning are not too old, they should be lifted early in autumn, and their large roots cut back, while all others must be carefully preserved. All cuts should be finally sloped on the upper part of roots, leaving that beneath intact; this tends to keep the small new ones, when formed, near the surface, instead of encouraging them to proceed downwards. Root-pruning of large trees may be effectually performed by digging a trench round them, and shortening back the mains, to within, say, 3ft. or 4ft. of the base. The first year after this has been practised, the trees will not be likely to bear much fruit--indeed, the necessity of such an operation suggests that the wood is not in a proper fruitful condition--but, in the following winter, the results will invariably be apparent by the presence of numerous spurs, furnished with properly-developed blossom-buds. Gathering and Storing. Some few sorts of Pears require gathering at a particular time: otherwise, the fruits never acquire their proper flavour. The well-known Williams' Bon Chretien, for instance, becomes musky if allowed to hang too long, while it is juicy and excellent if gathered early enough. As a rule, most of the varieties are ready so soon as their fruits, on being lifted to a horizontal position, part readily from the spur. Many of the early sorts require gathering before they are so far advanced; others, ripening in succession, must be frequently examined, and gathered at the time experience suggests. Fine specimens should be laid on a little moss, in shallow baskets, and carried to the fruit-room, where they should be placed in single layers, on shelves. A cool, steady temperature is best suited for preserving fruit, and the atmosphere should be kept dry. To maintain a supply of ripe Pears, it is frequently necessary to adopt some method for hastening the ripening process, with a variety usually coming into proper condition at a later date, to supply a deficiency, maybe, a month previous. This may be successfully accomplished by packing some fruits in soft material, such as cotton wool or dry fern, and placing them in a warm cupboard, or drawer, not far from a fire. In winter, almost any late variety may be improved in flavour, as well as forwarded in ripening, by this simple process.

Pear-trees in Pots. This interesting method of culture is almost certain to succeed if only due attention is given to watering, and also feeding, after the fruits commence swelling. Mere protection from frost in any unheated glass house is all that is necessary in spring. About the beginning of June, the pots may be plunged in some prepared soil outside, into which the roots may be allowed to enter for the summer; in autumn, when repotting should be attended to, they may be cut off. For this system of culture, trees on the Quince are best adapted. They are often inclined to produce more flowers than could possibly be matured; in such instances, a large number of the weaker ones should be removed before expanding. For other remarks respecting fruit-tree culture in pots, see Orchard House.

SORTS. Varieties of Pears are extremely numerous, a large proportion of them being worthless, and unfit for any purpose whatever. It is, therefore, extremely important that reference should be given only to sorts that are worthy of cultivation: this aim has been kept in view in the preparation of the following list. It includes the varieties, with some additions, recommended as being worthy of cultivation, in an abridged statement, taken from the full Report of the Executive Committee of the National Pear Conference, held in the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, Chiswick, from 21st October to 4th November, 1885. This interim report was prepared by Mr. A. F. Barron, secretary to the committee, and published in the horticultural press during December of the same year. At the Pear Conference referred to, contributions were received from thirty-five of the English counties, also from Scotland, Ireland, Wales, and the Channel Islands. In addition, several large and meritorious collections were received from France. The report in question states that, "without entering into comparison of the merits of the different collections exhibited, it is important to notify this fact, that the cultivation of good Pears is not confined to any particular climate or district of the country." To confirm this, reference is made to noteworthy exhibits from Jersey, Kent, Hampshire, Sussex, Cheshire, and also from Scotland. The subjoined is added: "Nothing contributes so much to these successful results as good and careful cultivation. As a general rule, the best fruits are produced where the greatest care is bestowed. An important factor in the successful cultivation of the Pear is, as gathered from the returns, in the use of the Quince stock, which, from its close, surface-rooting character, is more directly amenable to the attention of the cultivator." A considerable portion of the subjoined descriptions of Pears is translated, briefly, from Leroy's comprehensive and reliable work, the "Dictionnaire de Pomologie," which contains, doubtless, the most exhaustive treatment of the subject that exists.

Alexandre Lambre. Fruit medium, roundish-obovate; eye small, open; skin smooth, pale yellow, with small points of russet; flesh white, melting, and sometimes very rich. A very fine November Pear, but somewhat variable. Althorp Crassane. Fruit medium, roundish-obovate; eye rather large, open; skin pale green, slightly flushed with brown-red; flesh white, juicy, buttery, with a pleasant flavour. October and November. A first-rate sort. The tree is hardy, vigorous, and bears well.

Autumn Bergamot. Fruit rather small, roundish, somewhat depressed; eye small, open, set in a shallow depression; skin brownish-green on shady side, reddish-brown next the sun, covered with rough, brown-russet specks; flesh whitish, tender, slightly gritty at the core, juicy and richly flavoured. October. A good and very old sort. Vigorous growing and hardy. See Fig. 49.