Tomato
(Lycopersicum esculentum). A tender annual, native of South America, cultivated for the use of its fruit for cooking as a vegetable, as an ingredient in salads, for making Tomato sauce, and for various other culinary purposes. The fruits are sometimes used in a green, but more generally in a ripe, state. In most gardens of extent, the Tomato is considered one of the most important vegetables grown, and the keeping of a continued supply, if possible, throughout the whole year, is a point to be specially aimed at. For marketing, Tomatoes are very extensively cultivated, as they invariably command a good price, except, perhaps, for a limited period when the general crop is being harvested at the end of summer. The annual supply grown in this country for market purposes is nothing like equal to the demand, and large quantities of fruits are imported. Of late years, a considerable number of establishments have sprung into existence in which Tomatoes are cultivated (planted out) under glass on a vast scale; and while the demand for their produce is good, and more likely to increase than diminish, it proves, as a rule, a remunerative undertaking, and one which promises to continue so. In this country, it is only in warm situations, and in favourable localities, that the Tomato crop can be depended upon in the open air, though much depends on the season--whether it be a hot and dry, or a cold and wet one--and the strength of the plants when placed outside. Plants raised under glass, and grown to a good size, large enough to begin flowering, or even setting fruit, before being put out into their permanent quarters, have a manifest advantage over others which are not so prepared, in perfecting a crop afterwards. Indoors, Tomatoes may be grown to bear freely in large pots or boxes, or they may be planted in a ridge of soil, and trained to a trellis, or nailed against the back wall of a melon or cucumber house, provided there is sufficient light.
Tomatoes may be increased in any quantity from seeds, which ripen in abundance in most of the fruits that reach maturity; or they may be raised from cuttings, which is sometimes an advantage, as these root readily in heat, and soon grow to a fruiting size. Seeds intended for raising plants for the open air should be sown at the end of February, or during March, in 5in. pots, or in shallow pans, filled with light soil, and placed in a temperature of 55deg. or 60deg., either in a heated structure, or on a hotbed. As the seedlings come up, they must be kept well exposed to light, to prevent them becoming drawn. When the second leaves appear, they should be potted off singly, and still kept in heat, until re-established, when they may be grown on in any light house or frame, with more air, until gradually they are hardened off for placing outside, towards the end of May, or early in June. If placed singly, at first, in 3in. pots, the plants may be readily shifted into others, 6in. in diameter, some time during April, and this will be sufficiently large for them. Some growers place two plants in a pot, opposite each other, and close to the edge, and then divide the ball when planting out; but it is obvious that this must injure the roots, although, if they are not very much crowded, and due attention is given to watering and, if necessary, shading, for a few days, new growth is soon commenced. As our ordinary summers are not long-lasting, it is most important that the plants be thus forwarded, and special attention given them in training, to induce a fruitful, instead of a too luxuriant, growth. This may best be done by keeping the side shoots pinched out, and limiting each plant to the centre one only, or, at most, to not more than two. Treated in this way, the clusters of flowers which will appear before the plants get up very much will be strong, and--what is of equal or more importance--they will be swelling off at the earliest possible moment. Early ripening, or management with a view to attaining it, is quite a necessity, as it is of little use only having heavy crops at a time when they cannot ripen for want of sun. The best place for Tomatoes outside is a warm south wall; there are generally spaces in such positions, unoccupied by fruit-trees, which cannot be more profitably furnished. Select the places, and add a few spits of turfy soil round each plant when inserting it. The after-treatment consists in keeping the leading shoots tacked up as they lengthen, and in pinching off all the side ones rather frequently--say, once a fortnight--if there are any formed. In dry weather, water should be plentifully given if the plants appear to be in want; but a mulching of loose, leafy manure or litter will, if applied, be of material advantage in preventing this. Fruits, when they commence colouring, should be fully exposed to the sun; this can be done by fastening to one side, shortening, or removing altogether, some of the leaves which prevent the direct exposure to sunlight. When there is danger of frost, any green fruits may be cut and placed on a shelf in a warm house or vinery--if it is kept rather dry, so much the better--where many of the most forward ones will ripen. The plants, and also any part of the crop that is left out, are soon destroyed by frost. Tomato culture outside, in market gardens, has of necessity to be conducted on a different system, as there are no south walls as in private gardens. The plants are raised in frames, filled with fermenting manure, in early spring, and grown on as sturdy as possible, by allowing them plenty of air on all favourable occasions. Towards the end of May, they are thoroughly hardened off by removing the sashes daily; afterwards, they are planted in one of the most favourable warm positions at command, and still protected until all danger from frost is past. Large Red and Conqueror are two of the most profitable varieties for outside culture, either in private or other establishments: they fruit freely, and the produce is large and ripens well, provided the conditions under which the plants are placed are such as suit Tomatoes outside.
When grown in the open ground, the plants may be trained to strong stakes about 4ft. high, and the side shoots kept well thinned, to allow all the strength to pass into the fruits situated on the main. Where there is lack of wall space, this method of planting may be adopted in any garden; the plants must be strong and well hardened off before putting them out, and the position given them should be well sheltered and one of the warmest at command: a south border is most desirable.
Under glass, and with sufficient heat and space at command, Tomatoes may be had in greater or less quantity all the year round. During summer, when the supply is but uncertain from outside plants, it is always advisable to have some additional plants fruiting indoors, and from these the produce is also superior, because better ripened. The plants may be grown in large pots or deep boxes, or they may be planted out in a narrow bed formed with loose bricks to allow an inside space of about 2ft. Plenty of light is essential; consequently, a span-roofed house is best adapted, although a lean-to answers admirably. Plants raised from cuttings are generally preferred, as they are considered to begin bearing earlier, and are sometimes less vigorous than seedlings, which is an advantage in a limited space; but either plan of propagating may be adopted. Cuttings root very readily, if kept close, anywhere in heat, and either spring or the latter part of summer is the best time for renewing the stock. Young plants bear best, and, as they can be so easily raised, it is preferable to replace old ones rather than keep them after the produce begins deteriorating in size and quality. Ripe Tomatoes are most valued if procurable during the winter and in early spring; the plants intended for bearing at these seasons are, therefore, of much importance. Cuttings, struck in August, in small, single pots, should be grown on and shifted into larger ones as becomes necessary, until a 10in. or 12in. size is reached, which will be sufficiently large for fruiting them in if pot culture is adopted. Even when it is intended to plant in narrow borders or in boxes for fruiting, the plants may first be grown in pots and transferred to their permanent quarters when some of the earlier fruits are set. The mode of training should be that of keeping either to a single stem, or to two main shoots, all side ones being kept removed from the first. These shoots should be supported, from an early stage, with a stake; and a wire trellis, fixed about 9in. or 12in. from the glass, is best to train to afterwards. To get two shoots formed of about equal strength, the plants should be pinched once when from 6in. to 9in. high; and to encourage the production of heavy crops, the extreme points may be taken out after each bunch of fruits shows: new leaders will form readily, and generally additional fruits will appear at their first joints; hence the productiveness at an early stage, and in a small space, secured by this mode of training. This frequent stopping is not a necessity where there is plenty of space for the plant to grow: it will invariably show far more flowers than can be perfected, if the variety is a productive one. When sufficient are set for a crop, the others which appear may be pinched off. To succeed autumn-raised plants, others should be propagated in February, and grown on in pots preparatory to being placed in permanent positions. A night temperature in winter of 55 deg. to 60 deg., with a rise of 5 deg. by day, is not too high for Tomatoes. They need a somewhat similar temperature to winter Cucumbers, with which they are sometimes grown in the same house. If but an occasional dish of ripe fruits can be secured in winter, they are generally much valued; through the dullest season the ripening process goes on but slowly. Throughout the summer, Tomatoes may be grown in almost any glass structure, or in slightly-heated pits and frames, after the latter are cleared of bedding plants, &c., for the season; and the crops thereby obtained are more certain to ripen than those on plants outside, although in private gardens, where a quantity is required, both modes of culture are recommended. Tomatoes need an ample supply of water at all times, particularly when growing in pots or in any limited space. A rough, turfy compost, with a little decayed manure intermixed, will suit them; it is preferable to give manure water, or one of the concentrated artificial manures, when the fruits begin swelling, than to give a very rich compost previously, which would tend to induce too vigorous a growth--perhaps at the expense of productiveness. Fungi. Tomatoes frequently suffer greatly from the attacks of the Potato-disease Fungus. See Phytophthora for an account of this parasite, and of the means to be employed against it.
Insects. Tomato--plants are seldom very seriously injured by insects; but in the course of the year 1886 a species of Aleyrodes (see Snowy Fly) proved very destructive, in several localities, to plants in green-houses, and more especially to Tomato and Cucumber-plants. The species now in question was named A. vaporariorum, and figured, by Prof. Westwood, in 1856. The larvae feed on the backs of the leaves, piercing the skin and sucking the juices, like the more common A. proletella on Cabbages. The pupae are also fixed to the leaves; and the perfect insects emerge after a few days spent in the pupal stage. The insects differ from A. proletella in having milk-white, unspotted wings and pale yellow bodies. The leaves occupied by them turn yellow, wither, and die. These insects are unable to withstand exposure to the open-air temperature of England; and are supposed to have been brought from Central America or Mexico, with plants of some sort. They have been found on the Continent of Europe, on a large variety of trees and shrubs. Remedies. The remedies employed should be the same as those found to give good results against Aphides (which see), which these insects greatly resemble in their habits.
SORTS. Of the somewhat numerous sorts of Tomatoes in cultivation, the subjoined is a selection. For general purposes it is immaterial whether the fruits are smooth, or ribbed, as represented. but there are many occasions when those of even outline and medium size are specially asked for. It is, therefore, advisable to grow at least one of the smooth kinds. Acme. Fruit purplish-crimson, handsome, smooth in outline, very distinct in colour. Plant prolific.
Chiswick Red. Fruit bright scarlet, egg-shaped, borne in large clusters. Exceedingly productive, and of good quality.
Conqueror. Fruit vermilion-red, large, handsome, of excellent quality. Early, and one of the best for outdoor culture.
Dedham Favourite. Fruit rich ruby-red, of large size, quite smooth. Productive, and good for exhibition.
Greengage. Fruit of a beautiful citron-yellow colour, when ripe, produced in clusters. The best yellow-fruited variety; very distinct and ornamental. Hackwood Park Prolific. Fruit scarlet, large, smooth, even in form an size, borne in large clusters. Early, and exceedingly productive. Hathaway's Excelsior. Fruit fine red, handsome, very smooth and even in outline, firm, and of excellent quality. One of the best. Large Red. Fruit deep scarlet, very large, flattened and ribbed. Very productive, and well adapted for outside culture.
Orangefield Dwarf. Fruit red, large, frequently much ribbed, of excellent flavour. Plant unusually dwarf, early, and an abundant bearer; one of the best for indoor culture in a limited space and during winter. Pear-shaped. Fruit red, pear-shaped, very distinct, produced freely in clusters. This variety is ornamental, but not very extensively cultivated. Stamfordian. Fruit red, smooth, very large, somewhat in the way of TROPHY. Fine for exhibition.