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Outdoor Bulb Culture (Late in the fall as the ground)

late in the fall as the ground remains open; however, the proper planting season is early enough in the autumn to enable them to become rooted before hard frost as this means better flowers and sturdier growth next spring. In the neighborhood of Philadelphia October is the chief bulb planting month. An exception to this rule is the Narcissus which gives larger and better flowers if it is put in the ground in early fall. In the case of tulips, six weeks are required for their root formation and if they are planted much earlier than six weeks before frost arrives, a late warm spell will induce top growth to commence and be severely damaged later by frost. October 15th, in this locality, is the best planting time for tulips, in the average season.

The depth of planting varies with the size of the bulb; tulips, narcissi and hyacinths require a covering of from 4 to 6 inches, smaller bulbs being planted shallower. A general rule to follow is to plant three times the diameter of the bulb. In planting an excellent idea is to surround the bulb with coarse sand such as Jersey gravel. When the hole is made the required depth throw in a handful of sand, insert the bulb face upward, then cover it with another handful of sand before filling in the hole with soil. This insures perfect drainage in the immediate vicinity of [143] the bulb thus reducing the danger of rotting which occurs very easily in bulb culture. Another precaution to observe in planting is not to "hang" the bulb in the hole, but to bring the base of the bulb into direct contact with the solid ground beneath. Otherwise, the little rootlets as they are emitted from the base of the bulb would run the risk of drying out before they become long enough to reach the soil below.

When freezing weather arrives and a hard crust has formed over the surface soil, winter protection should be given. Apply it to the bed when the soil is dry and to a depth of from 3 to 6 inches. Dry leaves, slightly weighted down to prevent them from blowing, corn fodder, straw, or strawy manure may be used, the essentials for success being not to mulch too early nor when the soil is wet and to gradually remove the covering in early spring. Applications of weak liquid cow manure applied every week or ten days until the buds show color will increase somewhat the size and brilliancy of the flowers.

The care given the bulbs after flowering must receive careful attention, never frogetting that this is the time when the bulb is being filled with energy for next year's work. It has already been mentioned that this is accomplished through the agency of the leaves and roots which together manufacture food [144] which in due time is stored away in the bulb for future use. Therefore, do not destroy the leaves. For the good of the bulb the best treatment is to allow it to remain undisturbed until the foliage becomes soft and yellow. Where the garden plan calls for annuals or bedding plants to succeed the bulbs it is not often possible to wait the necessary three weeks or so for this ripening process to be completed as their space must be utilized sooner. In this case lift the bulbs carefully, breaking as few roots and leaves as possible and "heeling" them in, in a trench, selecting some semi-shady out-of-the-way spot. Do not plant them too closely and when the foliage has thoroughly ripened they should be lifted, cleaned and stored in a dry place until planting time arrives. Discard any soft, small bulbs, replacing them with new ones. The importance of buying sound, healthy bulbs from a reliable source can hardly be overestimated as undersized, flabby bulbs will hardly repay the trouble of their culture. In gardens planned for continuous bloom, bulbs, especially the spring-blooming sorts, hold an important place. By a careful selection of varieties splendid effects can be produced before the majority of perennials have fully awakened from their winter rest. Many gay and charming effects can be produced by the planting of large colonies or groups of bulbs in the [145] hardy garden. Much disappointment is avoided by obtaining a thorough knowledge of the blooming periods of the various kinds and varieties of bulbs. For example, the blooming season of tulips extends from about April 15th through May, and unless one is well acquainted with their various blooming dates those varieties planned to bloom at the same time will often fail to do so. Another rule to observe is to plant tulips, hyacinths or whatever the bulb may be the same depth. A difference of an inch or so will cause an uneven growth and irregular blooming even with the same variety. This can easily be accomplished by notching a plant label or stick the desired depth the bulbs are to be put into the ground and measure each hole before inserting the bulb. This sounds like a great undertaking but is really not troublesome at all, and after a few holes are made the eye becomes trained to the correct depth and the work progresses rapidly. Where bulbs are bedded outdoors in beds made especially for them an easier and more accurate method is to remove the surface 6 inches of soil over which may be spread a layer of sand. Place the bulbs in the sand, then carefully replace the soil firming it around the bulbs. This way of planting is, of course, impossible to follow in the hardy garden or border filled [146] with plants, and in such cases each hole must be measured as recommended above.

If some planting scheme is not carefully worked out beforehand the chances are that the result will be that of a poorly balanced scattered planting. An elaborate plan is not necessary; any sketch showing the design of the garden is all that is required. This will prove of the greatest assistance while planting is in progress. The plan should be made, if possible, before ordering the bulbs; if this is not done one runs the risk of having too many of one variety and too few of another to carry out the desired effect. On paper it is so easy to arrange and rearrange the distribution of bulbs and shift the various varieties around until the desired planting is obtained. While planning, try to picture clearly how the garden will look during each period of bloom, and be careful to so locate the bulbs as to provide an equal amount of bloom in each part of the garden at all times. To accomplish this, rotate the plantings through the beds of those bulbs having different blooming seasons. The effect during each flowering period will then be a well balanced, evenly distributed one. For example, alternate clumps of early and late tulips, or hyacinths and late tulips, thus securing the effect of general bloom throughout [147] during each blooming season rather than a few flowers in one part of the garden and a preponderance of bloom in another part. When the bulbs arrive, the plan will prove a great comfort, without this helpful guide the work would prove confusing and changes would be difficult to make.

If the garden is small it is far better to limit one's choice in the kinds of bulbs planted, the reason for this being, that if a great variety of bulbs representing different blooming seasons are introduced into a small area, only a limited number will bloom together and no really fine effect will be obtained at any one time. The planting of bulbs need not be confined to the garden. Naturalizing them in lawns, woodland paths, orchards, meadows and along the margins of streams is a very popular practice. Crocus, squills, grape hyacinths and chionodoxas are best for lawn plantings. They bloom so early that their foliage is quite out of the way when lawn-mowing time arrives. Daffodils can also be naturalized but their foliage ripens later and interferes with the lawn mowing during the month of May. Poeticus narcissi, jonquils and the large trumpet daffodils seem to be particularly at home along streams and in wooded paths. Large, informally planted colonies of them in meadows and orchards are also lovely. To secure an effect in naturalizing [148] bulbs it is necessary to plant them by the hundreds or thousands depending upon the size of the lawn or meadow; this is especially true of squills, grape hyacinths, crocuses and snowdrops which appear insignificant and fail to attract unless massed in large quantities. Mix the bulbs to be planted and strew them over the ground, planting them where they fall. Some will be closer than others, but this irregularity of distance will procure the desired effect during the blooming period. Dig holes with a trowel to receive the bulbs, work a little bone meal and sand into the soil, insert the bulb, replace the sod, and the work is done.

A clump here and there of crocus, daffodils or early tulips along the edge of the shrubbery border, beneath flowering trees or in irregular groups bordering the top of wall gardens creates an unexpected patch of color in odd places which is greatly appreciated after the dull winter months.