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Asparagus (Officinalis AS A VEGETABLE)

(A. officinalis) AS A VEGETABLE. The value and importance of this plant as a vegetable cannot be over-estimated; it is extensively grown, and, when properly managed, produces a fairly lucrative crop. Soil and Bed. The first thing to be done in the preparation of an Asparagus bed to stand for any length of time, is to secure an efficient drainage; and on wet soils this is best effected by placing a layer of brick rubbish over the whole of the bottom, and connecting this with a drain. On gravelly or other soils which are drained naturally, of course, this is not needed; but if really good crops are a desideratum, water should not stand within 3ft. of the surface. In all cases, the ground must be dug to a depth of 18in., and, if stiff, a goodly amount of road sweepings, or other gritty materials, should be well mixed with the staple soil. Asparagus requires a good soil, neither too heavy nor too light.

Manuring. After the soil has been well trenched, and has lain long enough to settle down, a good dressing of manure-thoroughly rotted, and not too rank, at the rate of from twenty to thirty tons to the acre, dug into the surface of the beds-will be found very beneficial. If possible, this should be introduced in January; and then, if the weather permits, the beds should be forked two or three times by the end of March, so as to render the soil as friable as possible. A very good manure, and one that is easily obtained, is common garden salt. This may be given annually to established beds. A moderate dressing should be applied just before growth commences in spring, but a little will do no harm at other times during the summer. It is best scattered on with the hand, and a showery day should be selected, as it will then soon disappear. Salt, besides acting as a manure, has also the properties of keeping the beds cool and moist in hot weather, and of preventing the growth of weeds.

Planting. Asparagus can be planted during March and April, the latter month being the best time for the work. The soil having been thoroughly prepared, the next point is to decide on the size of the beds; this depends on the size of garden, and the class of "grass" desired. When very large and fine stocks are the object in view, the best results will accrue if the plants are fully a yard apart each way; but this means a comparatively small crop. A good plan is to make the beds 3ft. wide, planting two rows, at a distance of 1ft. from each other, and allowing 18in. between each plant, placing them in alternate order. An 18in. alley should be allowed between the beds. The roots used for making the beds should be one year old, and fresh from the ground. In planting, pull out a wide drill with a hoe, or other tool, to the depth of about 3in. or 4in., and spread out the roots all round. Carefully shake the soil in amongst the roots, and, if dry, apply some water through a coarse-rosed watering pot, to settle the earth around them. At intervals, as necessary, give other waterings till September, when they should be discontinued. At all times, keep the beds free from weeds, removing them by the hand to prevent injury to the crowns of the plants. If the ground is good, no liquid manure will be needed the first year. As soon as the foliage turns yellow, cut it off, cleanly rake over the beds, and leave till about January, when a top-dressing of from 1in. to 3in. of thoroughly rotted manure may be applied with advantage. At the end of February, rake off the bed all loose straw or other debris, and throw on them a little of the soil from the alleys, raking down, and finishing off the edges squarely and neatly. During this and succeeding years, apply liquid manure and clear water, from time to time, as required; and, provided the manure is not of too great strength, there is scarcely any limit to its application; but, in many instances, beds which have only received an annual dressing have given a good return. Each year they must be cut over and dressed as before described, but care must be taken to keep them flat on the surface, otherwise the plants will die out for want of moisture. When the produce appears, the beds should be kept cut over until the 20th of June, after which, cutting should cease, or they will be rendered comparatively unproductive. Cutting can commence the second or third year, or as soon as there is any "grass" worth taking. Several methods of growing these plants could be cited, but that which we have recommended will be found most satisfactory. Seeds.* Plants are raised by sowing seeds in rows across the kitchen garden, or selected quarter, about the month of April. The seedlings make a growth, and form good plants during the first season. In March or April of the following year, or the year after, they may be removed, and planted out, permanently, as already alluded to. Many cultivators prefer growing their own plants from seed; because during the transit of the roots from any distance to where they are to be grown, a frequent and injurious exhaustion takes place, and particularly so when they are carelessly packed. Forcing. Asparagus can, if properly treated, be obtained from December onwards; and at Christmas time the produce is very valuable; but, in order to obtain it at this season, it will be necessary to resort to forcing. Prepare some beds to secure a lasting heat, and on these place about 3in. of ordinary garden soil, not very stiff. Then take the roots, and place them crown upwards, and moderately close together, shaking the soil well amongst the roots, and covering about a couple of inches deep. Water well, to settle the whole, and put on the lights, allowing a little ventilation, to let out any steam which may arise. Unless the weather be very cold indeed, give a little air at all times, and only cover the lights in actual frost. From time to time, apply fresh linings of hot manure, and in cold rains, or wind, cover the outsides of the frames with old sacks, or other things which will keep in the heat. A regular and steady temperature of 60deg. will force this plant with better results than a higher one. Houses that are fitted with hot-water pipes to give bottom heat can be used equally as well as manure beds, and so long as the soil is kept moist, the heat thus obtained is as good as any for the purpose, and much less trouble than fermenting materials. To keep up a regular supply, a succession of beds will be necessary. Asparagus can be forced, or rather forwarded, in pots or boxes, in a warm green-house or vinery, and, of course, when the plants are done with, they can be cast away. We give an illustration (Fig. 160) of a bearing crown fit for gentle forcing; but, of course, it must not be left so bare of earth as appears here, which is done for the purpose of clearness.

Varieties. Connover's Colossal, and Giant, are the most esteemed. Strains are frequently largely advertised as improvements on the sorts above-mentioned, and the charges are higher accordingly. The difference may be generally attributed to the culture the plants receive more than to an improved variety. When saving seed for home sowing, they should be taken from the strongest growths, or deterioration will ensue.

A. aethiopicus ternifolius (ternate). fl. white, in shortly-stalked racemes, very profuse. August. l., false ones in threes, flattened, narrow, linear; prickles solitary, reversed; branches angular. h. 30ft. South Africa, 1872. A greenhouse evergreen.

A. Broussoneti (Broussonet's).* fl. very small, succeeded by small red berries. May. l., lower ones solitary, the others ternate, 1in. long, needle-shaped, persistent, distant, glaucescent; stipules with reflected spines at the base. Summer. Stem tapering, streaked, shrubby. h. 10ft. Canary Islands, 1822. A very pretty hardy climber.

A. Cooperi (Cooper's). fl. axillary, one to three, from the same nodes as the false leaves; perianth cream-coloured, one line long. April and May. l. minute, deltoid, scariose, reddish-brown; false leaves six to fifteen to a node, subulate, moderately firm, 1/4in. to 3/8in. long, spreading or ascending. h. 10ft. to 12ft. Africa, 1862. A greenhouse climber, with a shrubby terete main stem. 1 1/2in. to 2in. thick at the base, sending out crowds of spreading branches, which bear abundant slender, firm, alternate branchlets; nodes of branches and branchlets, furnished with distinct red-brown, subulate prickles, those of the main stems 1/4in. long, deflexed, but not curved.

A. decumbens (decumbent).* Stem unarmed, decumbent, much branched; branches wavy; leaves setaceous, in threes. Cape of Good Hope, 1792. A greenhouse evergreen herbaceous perennial.

A. falcatus (hooked-leaved). l. fascicled, linear, falcate; branches round; prickles solitary, recurved; peduncles one-flowered, clustered. h. 3ft. India, 1792. A greenhouse evergreen perennial.

A. officinalis (officinal). Common Asparagus. fl. greenish-white, drooping.