Budding
This process consists of taking an eye or bud attached to a portion of the bark, and transferring it to another and different plant; it is an operation almost confined to woody plants, but has been practised with more or less success upon herbaceous perennials. The stock should not be budded unless the sap is in circulation, which is assured if the bark will detach itself easily, when gently lifted, from the wood.
There are many ways of performing the different systems, in preparing and inserting the Buds, &c., and all may prove more or less successful if undertaken when the Buds and stock are both in a suitable condition. The principal methods are Shield or T-budding, including the Circular, Square, and Inverted forms; Flute or Tube-budding, and Annular or Ring-budding. The first-named method, which is fully described below, is very extensively practised for propagating Roses and stone fruits. It is also coming more in use for the propagation of many other fruit trees, including Apples and Pears, especially new or scarce varieties, as the great advantage of making use of many more of the eyes, to form separate trees, is thereby attained. In large nurseries, where skilful propagators are employed, thousands of trees are annually budded, the majority of them with very successful results. It is, in most cases, preferable to purchase established fruit trees, as cultivators require the produce much quicker than they could get it by propagating trees themselves. The same system of Budding is, however, applicable for increasing Roses; and this may be adopted with every chance of success by even a cottager, if he takes the necessary care in performing the work. Rare varieties of ornamental deciduous trees are largely propagated in this way; for instance, many of the Acers, Elms, Horse Chestnuts, &c. Evergreen shrubs, such as Rhododendrons and Hollies, are also rapidly increased in some establishments by this means.
In the case of fruit-trees, plump wood Buds must be selected, from medium-sized branches. On some sorts these are scarce, the majority being Flower-buds, and it is rather difficult to distinguish between them at the Budding season. The best time for the operation is from June to the end of August; but surrounding influences, condition of Buds, stocks, &c., must be taken into account. Clean cuts, with gentle and skilful handling, are even more important in the Budding of stone fruits than of Roses or other plants, and the ties should be lightly but firmly made. In all cases, the operation must be performed as quickly as possible, as both Bud and bark are injured if exposed to the air for any length of time.
To proceed with the ordinary system of Shield-budding, the stock should first have a longitudinal and a transverse incision made in the bark, the former about 1in. long. Next, the Bud should be prepared, removing half the leaf. Hold the branch with the left hand, and pass the knife from about 1/2in. below, gradually upwards and inwards under the Bud, bringing it out in a similar way at a somewhat shorter distance above. A portion of wood will also be taken out, and this is generally removed the opposite way to that in which the Bud has been cut. By skilful Budders, it is removed by a sort of twitch from either end. Great care must be taken not to pull out the base or root of the Bud at the same time, as this would render it useless. Should the whole come out together, leaving a hollow place under the eye of the Bud, it must be thrown away, and another prepared. The Bud being ready, loosen the bark at the point where the incisions meet, with the ivory knife handle, and insert it by means of the piece of leaf attached. It must then be tied in with soft matting or bast, to exclude air, but not tight enough to injure the bark. Shading from bright sun is advisable for a few days afterwards, and, as soon as the union takes place, the ties must be frequently examined, and loosened if necessary. Some prefer Budding late in the season, in order that the Bud may remain dormant during the winter, and breaking stronger the following spring. Occasionally, Buds are inserted in spring, just at the commencement of growth. The stocks of the Summer-budded trees should only be allowed a moderate amount of foliage during the autumn, and should be cut back to the established Bud before growth commences in spring.
Square and Circular Shield-budding consists in cutting out a piece of bark of either shape from the stock, and inserting another piece of exactly the same size, containing a Bud, and covering with a bandage, or piece of sticking plaster, all except the eye. This mode is seldom made use of. Inverted T or Shield-budding is preferred in the south of France for propagating Orange-trees, but is not other-wise much used. The only difference is that the transverse incision is made below, instead of above, the other, and the Bud inserted upwards, making it fit with the bark at the point where the stock is cut across.
Flute-budding is sometimes used, and answers well for some trees. A cylinder of bark is removed from the stock, and one of a similar size from the scion, containing Buds, is fitted in its place, being carefully made air-tight by means of a bandage or grafting wax. Some prefer splitting the bark, as shown in the illustration, and laying it over the tube or cylinder; but the parts cannot be fitted so well as when it is removed.
Ring Budding. By this mode, it is not necessary to cut off the top of the stock. A ring of bark may be removed from any convenient part and replaced with one containing eyes. The latter should be taken from a little larger branch than the stock, as the bark could then be made to fit better. As in Flute-budding, air must be excluded by means of adhesive paper and bandages or grafting wax.
Budding operations may be performed at any time during the season; but dull cloudy weather, and morning or evening, are most suitable. If the branch, containing Buds, cannot be obtained as required for use, the ends may be placed in water, to keep them fresh; but unnecessary delay should be avoided. Stocks for Budding upon. For the Cherry, the Wild Gean, and seedlings from the Morello, make capital stocks for tall trees and those of moderate growth; and the Mahaleb, or Perfumed Cherry, for small trees for pots, bushes, pyramids, or cordons. For the Plum, the Mussel, Myrobalan, Magnum Bonum, St. Julian, &c., are mostly used for stocks, the Myrobalan being best for small trees. Peaches and Nectarines are generally budded on the Mussel, St. Julian, or Myrobalan Plums; the last are best for dwarfs. The Apricot is budded on the Mussel or Myrobalan Plums, for small plants; and the St. Julian Plum for standards. In France, the Damas Noir, or Black Damask, and the Cerisette, are also used. They should all be raised from seeds, and not from suckers. Seeds for raising plants for stocks may be sown as soon as ripe; but where quantities are used, the stones are thrown into heaps, so as to slightly ferment during winter. In the spring, they are sown in drills or beds, and transplanted the next year in rows 2ft. or 3ft. apart, and 10in. or 12in. from plant to plant. The dwarfs are generally budded the second year, and the standards the third or fourth. Dwarf trees are budded from within a few inches of the ground to 1ft. above; standards and riders from 3ft. to 9ft.; cordons, pyramids, &c., can hardly be budded too low.
Rose Budding. Propagation of Roses by Budding is very extensively practised both with standard trees and dwarf plants. It is perhaps easier and more certain to succeed with these than with fruit trees; but the mode adopted is precisely the same-that of the shield-shaped Bud with the core, or root, and the bark attached. For standards, the common briar of the Dog Rose is the best. The earlier these are obtained and planted in November, the better, as roots are then formed at once. For dwarf plants, the Manetti stock is mostly used, being easily obtained and had in proper condition almost at any time when Buds are ready. Plants on this stock do not succeed in all soils, and suckers are also very liable to be produced. Budding on the seedling briar is attended with good results, and is practised more than hitherto. The De la Grifferaie stock is also used, more for Tea Roses than others, and is considered by some to produce better plants than the Manetti. The shoots on standard briars should be reduced to about three of the strongest, selected as close together as possible, and near the top, the briars having been previously cut back the desired height at planting time. Two Buds are sufficient for a good head; but, for certainty, three may be inserted. Fig. 291 represents a tall briar with three shoots; a shows the shoot slit for the Bud; b, the Bud inserted; c, the Bud tied in. Fig. 292 is a branch showing Buds, the lowest ones of which are most suitable, being in firmer wood. Those at the top are often useless. Fig. 293 represents a Bud taken from Fig. 292, a, b, and Fig. 294 gives an idea of how the wood is removed. As previously remarked when describing the system, experienced Budders remove the wood from either end. Fig. 294 shows its removal from the lower end. Budding as close as possible to the main stem is most desirable. Raffia grass is superior in every way for tying, which should be performed as soon after the Bud is inserted as possible. It requires much care, and, of course, the Bud itself must be entirely free. As soon as the Buds swell, the tying material should be loosened, and the top of the stock cut back to the level of the budded shoot. By Budding late, the Buds lie dormant till the next spring, and the necessity of tying the young shoots is dispensed with for that season. The shoots of the briar in advance of the Rose Buds must be cut back, as shown in Fig. 295, so soon as the Buds are safely established. The Manetti and other dwarf stocks are budded on the main shoot nearly close to, or underneath the ground, and if low enough to cover part of the rose stem when grown, the latter often roots as well and assists the stock. Being small, they may be grown in pots and removed to the required position at any time. Dog Roses, used for standards, are usually collected from hedgerows, and sold at about 8s. per hundred. Manetti stocks are increased by cuttings, which, after making one season's good growth, will be fit for use. Briars are raised from seed, which may be collected from hedges, and sown in the autumn, in drills. The seedlings should be trans-planted the first year after sowing, and the following season they will be ready for working.