Cauliflower
A garden variety of Brassica oleracea, in which the inflorescence, while young, is condensed into a depressed, fleshy, edible head. This differs from Broccoli in being more tender, of finer flavour, and in use more as a summer and autumn vegetable. When at its best, a Cauliflower should have a close head and be free from caterpillars. To attain these points, rich soil, and frequent hand-picking--should caterpillars put in an appearance-are requisite. Deeply-worked soil is also necessary; in fact, with no other crop of the Brassica tribe is this more important than with the Cauliflower.
Cultivation. Cauliflowers may be divided into two sections: Spring-sown and Autumn-sown. The latter is, perhaps, the more important, as the crop comes from them in spring and early summer, when they are sure to be expected and are always appreciated.
Sow seeds for succession in February and March, on a gentle hotbed, and afterwards in the open ground. As soon as the plants are large enough to handle, prick them out in a warm place under hand lights, or in a frame, with a little bottom heat in the case of the earlier sowings, until of sufficient size to plant out finally. It is not advisable to sow later than May for autumn supplies, as the season is not of sufficient length afterwards for the crop to be ready for use before frost comes. The results are not always certain, especially in a dry summer, a large percentage of the plants being liable to "button," or produce their heads prematurely. If, however, smaller successional plantings are made, the loss of, maybe, the majority of any one will not be so much felt. The plants will require a distance of 2ft. each way, and they should be kept watered, if possible, in dry weather. The earlier batches should be planted where there is shelter, such as single lines between Asparagus beds, or between rows of early Peas, if the latter are wide enough apart to admit plenty of light.
To obtain plants to stand the winter, sow in August, or early in September, and, as soon as they are large enough, prick out about 4in. apart, in cold frames, keeping them about 6in. from the glass. Allow the plants all the air possible, but not too much rain, or they will become sappy, and not able to stand the cold of winter. At the approach of frost, put on the sashes, and, in severe weather, apply coverings of dry litter, fern, or some other non-conducting material. Hand lights, protected in a similar way, may also be used to preserve the plants through the winter. Give plenty of air at all times when there is no frost; and on mild, dry days, throw off the lights altogether, the object being to make the plants as hardy as possible. In March or April, transplant to a warm south border, taking the state of the weather into consideration. It will still be necessary to protect with hand lights, if possible, or by some other means. A good plan is to place at distances four plants within the area of a hand light, and remove the latter on all favourable occasions. Keep the soil stirred around the plants, and, as the season advances, plenty of water and an occasional dose of liquid manure will be of great advantage. Should the crop come in too rapidly, cut the heads so soon as they are ready, and place them on the floor of a cool shed or cellar, where they will keep for several days. Cauliflowers should be cut before the white heads are exposed to the sun and light, or they will quickly open and become partially green, thereby injuring the quality. Sorts. Distinct sorts are somewhat limited, but their synonyms are numerous. The best for autumn sowing are Early Erfurt, Early London, and Walcheren. These may also be sown in spring; other good varieties for sowing at this season are Large Asiatic, Lenormand's Dwarf Mammouth, and Veitch's Autumn Giant.