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Compositae (Hardy or half-hardy annuals)

Hardy or half-hardy annuals, biennials, or perennials. Pappus feathery; receptacle chaffy; involucre imbricated, tumid, the outer scales with numerous spines, the inner coloured, spreading, resembling a ray. They are of very easy culture in ordinary garden soil. A few only are worth growing, and are readily increased by seed, sown in spring. C. acanthifolia (Acanthus-leaved).* fl.-heads white. June. l. pinnatifid, downy beneath; segments toothed, angular, spiny. Plant stemless. h. 2ft. Southern Europe, 1818. Hardy perennial. (A. F. P. iii., 51.) C. acaulis (stemless). fl.-heads white. June. l. pinnatifid, naked; segments cut-toothed, spiny. Stem simple, one-flowered. h. 9in. Europe, 1640. Hardy perennial. SYN. C. subacaulis. (G. C. 1880, xiii., 1720.) C. Biebersteiniana (Bieberstein's). fl.-heads purple. August. h. 2ft. Caucasus, 1816. Hardy perennial.

C. subacaulis. A synonym of C. acaulis.

CARLUDOVICA (named after Charles IV. of Spain, and Louisa, his queen). SYNS. Ludovia, Salmia (of Will-denow). ORD. Cyclanthaceae. A genus of low-growing, palm-like, stove plants. Flowers of separate sexes, in squares arranged very close together in a spiral manner, and forming cylindrical spikes. Leaves stiff, plaited, deeply cut into from two to five division. Plants unarmed. The species are very ornamental, and several are eminently adapted for sub-tropical gardening, for which purpose they are largely employed in Parisian gardens. They are easily grown with the usual routine of stove management, thriving in a compost of two parts peat and one of sandy loam; a liberal supply of water is needed.

C. atrovirens (dark-green).* l. and petioles very deep green, smooth, deeply bilobed. A very fine ornamental-leaved plant.

C. Drudei (Drude's).* fl. ivory white, borne on a erect-stalked, terete spadix, of cylindrical form. l. rich deep green, 17in. long, and about 33in. in transverse diameter, tufted, transversely oblong in outline, palmately three-lobed, the lobes plicated, and deeply and regularly incised at the margin. h. 4ft. Columbia, 1878. (B. C. n. s. 8, 715.) C. ensiformis (ensiform). fl. white, in close spikes. l. bipartite, ensiform. h. 2ft. Costa Rica, 1875. (B. M. 6418.) C. humilis (dwarf).* l. rich deep green; 12in. to 18in. long, 9in. to 12in. broad at the widest part, rhomboid, deeply bifid at the apex. New Grenada. A very handsome but rare species. (R. H. 1869, 71.) C. palmata (palmate).* l. rich dark green, 2ft. to 3ft. across, bifid at apex, and divided quite down to the point of attachment into four lobes, each of which is divided into narrow segments; petioles 4ft. to 6ft. in height, round, smooth. Peru, 1818. (R. H. 1861, 10.) C. purpurata (purplish). l. deep green, 2ft., or more, long, and 12in. to 18in. broad, bifid at the apex, tapering towards the base; petioles 2ft. to 4ft. high, smooth, reddish-purple. Tropical America. C. rotundifolia (round-leaved).* l. flabelliform, divided in two places quite down to the point of attachment, thus presenting a trilobed appearance; lobes divided into segments, which are very gracefully pendent. Costa Rica. C. Wallisii (Wallis's).* fl. white, very sweetly scented, disposed in roundish oblong heads. l. ovate, two-lobed, and plicate; each division is about 1ft. long, and 6in. or 8in. broad; petioles erect, semi-terete. Columbia, 1879. (R. G. 992.) CARMICHAELIA (named after Captain Dugald Carmichael, F.L.S., an acute Scotch botanist, author of the "Flora of the Island of Tristan da Acunha," inserted in the twelfth volume of the Linnaean Society's Transactions). ORD. Leguminosae. Very ornamental greenhouse evergreen shrubs, flowering for a considerable length of time. They thrive in a compost of sandy peat, to which may be added a very little fibry loam and leaf soil. Cuttings of half-ripened side shoots root in sand, under a glass, in a cool house, in April or May. C. australis (southern).* fl. lilac; racemes simple, rising from the denticulations of the branches. May, September. l. with three to seven obcordate leaflets. Branches compressed. h. 2ft. to 4ft. New Zealand, 1823. (B. R. 912.) CARNATION (Dianthus Caryophyllus). These charming flowers were, at one time, universal favourites, and the varieties were far more numerous than now. In the early days of gardening, they were often called Gilliflowers as well as Carnations. For some unaccountable reason, after 1850, they were seriously neglected, and many of the old varieties were entirely lost to cultivation; they are now, however, regaining popular favour, and are not only cultivated by specialists, but scarcely any garden can afford to be without some. There are no hardy flowers more deserving general cultivation than Carnations, as they present charming diversity and brilliancy of colouring, with a delicious perfume. Their stateliness of growth, and value in a cut state, are also characteristics greatly in their favour.

PROPAGATION may be effected by layers, pipings, or by seed. Layers. This method is far more generally adopted than any other, whether the plants are grown in pots, borders, or beds. The end of July, or the beginning of August, is the best time for layering. Before commencing, a compost of leaf soil, loam, and sharp sand, in nearly equal proportions, should be prepared. Some pegs can be made of bracken stems, or other material of a like nature, which will decay in the soil. A layer of the compost, about 2in. in thickness, should be placed around each plant, as in this the young plants will root. The shoots selected should be denuded of a few of their leaves at the base of the young wood, and a slit must be made from this point upwards, extending through a joint of the bare stem, so that a tongue is formed. The layers should next be carefully pegged down in their place, keeping the incision open. About 1in. of soil must then be placed over the layered part to a little beyond the peg, and the whole well watered. If dry weather ensue, it will be necessary to give occasional waterings; but care must be taken that the shoots are not denuded of soil. Plants layered in pots should be placed in the open till they are rooted, which usually takes a month or five weeks. See also Layering. Pipings. Where shoots are too short or too numerous for layering, or where they become broken by accident, it is desirable to propagate by pipings; such shoots may be removed before the time for layering. For this mode of propagation, it is necessary to have a slight hotbed, and on it to put 4in. or 5in. of fine light soil, covered with silver sand. The pipings must be long enough to have a tolerably firm base, and they must either be taken with a heel, or cut off at a joint, and firmly inserted in the soil. After a good watering, the light should be placed upon the frame, and the pipings must be kept close, and shaded. The soil must be maintained moderately moist till the roots are formed, but damp must be guarded against.

Seed. Propagation of Carnations by seed is a very interesting operation. By this means, new and excellent varieties are raised. Both single and double-flowered plants are produced from a packet of seed; the latter can be selected, and the best perpetuated by layering. The principal nurserymen supply seed of good quality, or anyone with a good strain may save his own. Hybridising may be effected with the best flowers in each class, so as to secure seed which will probably produce new kinds. The most suitable time for sowing is in April or May, and the best place a slight hotbed, or in a greenhouse. The pans should be properly drained, then filled with fresh sandy loam and leaf soil to within an inch or so of the top, making it tolerably firm, and the surface afterwards levelled, before sowing the seed. This should be scattered evenly over the soil, and then slightly covered with a little of the potting mixture, finely sifted. To keep the whole uniformly moist, a piece of glass should be laid on the top of the pan, till the seeds germinate; after which, the covering should be removed, and the pans placed in an airy position near the glass. As soon as the seedlings can be handled, they should be pricked out in beds, previously prepared by mixing in some fresh loam and rotten manure with the ordinary soil, and watered when necessary, to assist them in their growth. By the end of September, the plants will be sufficiently large to transfer to their permanent position in beds or borders, where they will bloom the following season.

GENERAL CULTIVATION. Winter Treatment. In favoured positions, many kinds will withstand the winter, especially if the soil is light and well drained. Generally, however, it is necessary to provide accommodation, for a portion of the stock at least, in cold frames; and when a choice collection is grown, it would be useless to attempt to keep it intact without winter protection. About September, when the layers or pipings are well rooted, they should be potted singly or in pairs, the former in 3in., and the latter in 4in. pots, according to the size of the plants. The potting compost should consist of loam two parts, leaf soil one part, and sand one part, with a fair amount of drainage. After potting, a good watering should be given, and the frame kept close for a week or two, until root-action is resumed, when air may be freely admitted. All through the winter, full advantage should be taken of fine weather to give all the air possible, by tilting, or entirely removing, the lights. If bleak winds prevail, it will be best to tilt the lights in an opposite direction to the wind. Until the beginning of February, when, as a rule, the plants begin to grow, great attention must be paid to watering. They must be kept somewhat dry rather than excessively wet, as the greatest enemy in winter is damp. If kept too wet, a disease known as "Spot" is likely to appear in the foliage, which may prove very prejudicial. Watering those that are dry, with a small-spouted can, so as to avoid unduly wetting the foliage, is preferable to using a rose. After February, they may have more water; in fact, it will then be very unwise to allow them to get at all dry.

Cultivation in Pots. The end of February, or the beginning of March, is as a rule, the best time for potting; but, to some extent, this must be regulated by the season and condition of the plants. Pots 10in. in diameter are large enough to accommodate a pair of good strong plants, while weaker growing ones may be placed in 9in., or even 8in. pots. These should be well drained, and a layer of leaf soil or rotten manure placed over the crocks. The following is an excellent potting compost: Two parts good fibrous sandy loam, not broken too finely, one part leaf mould, and one part good rotten old hotbed manure, to which may be added a good sprinkling of coarse, gritty sand, from a river if it can be procured; well mix the whole together, but do not pass through a riddle. Pot the plants moderately firm, and sufficiently deep to allow of the layers being got to the surface without fear of breaking off. After potting, place back in the frame again, and keep well ventilated, until the plants show signs of fresh growth, when they may be stood outside in an airy position. Watering must be very carefully performed for some time after potting, and staking the leading growths must not be delayed, or they will be broken with the wind. If large flowers are required, the buds should be thinned in their early stages, and means taken to prevent the splitting of the calyx. Should there be signs of this, make two or three incisions in the opposite side, and fasten a piece of matting round it, which will materially assist to keep the petals together. In order to produce fine flowers for exhibition or other purposes, it will be necessary to thin the buds severely, leaving only the primary or finest ones to develop. For flowering, the plants are best removed to a cool greenhouse, where an abundance of air can be afforded; this protection will greatly lengthen the period of blossoming, and materially assist to bring out the quality of the flowers. Where this is not practicable, a few lights, or some tiffany, should be temporarily arranged over them, when the same end will be gained; and after the plants are layered, the covering can be removed.

Cultivation in Beds or Borders. With the choicer varieties grown in pots, a magnificent collection may be cultivated in specially prepared beds or positions in an ordinary border. There are a large number of beautiful Selfs, and fancy border varieties, as a rule richly scented, which are far better treated in the open ground; and, presuming a special bed is allotted them, which is a much preferable method, even if duplicates are planted in the mixed border, it is necessary to ridge up the bed in the autumn for exposure to the sweetening effects of wintry weather, and the extermination of insects. At the same time, a dressing of soot and lime, mixed, may, with advantage, be well incorporated with the soil, for the destruction of these pests, especially the wireworm, which is a very troublesome insect in Carnation culture. An addition of leaf soil and sharp sand should also be made if the soil is stiff or clayey. The plants should be put out in March, about 1ft. apart each way; more space between the lines may be allowed if desired, according to the size or shape of the bed. Keep the beds clean, and, when dry, thoroughly watered. As the buds expand, occasional doses of liquid manure will be found beneficial. It will also be necessary to thin the buds if large flowers are required, as recommended for those grown in pots. When grown in odd spaces in the border, equally as much attention is needed as when grown in beds. The blossom-stalks require staking in order to display the flowers, and to keep them from being soiled. Very neat stakes should be used, and they should be neither longer nor shorter than really required. A very good form of wire stake is shown in Fig. 370, with which tying is unnecessary.

Insects. Green fly is the most troublesome. As a rule, unless in very dry seasons, they do not attack those planted out; but, when grown in pots, and while the young plants are in the frames, they are very likely to cause great injury. The best means of eradicating them is by tobacco fumigation; and it is better to give a thorough fumigation before the young growth is developed. If they are trouble-some after, it will again be necessary to fumigate, but rather repeat than overdose the plants. Wireworms are very destructive at the roots. The soil should be carefully looked over before being used for potting, as any wireworms left in it would eat the roots as fast as they are formed, eventually killing the plant. Should established plants be attacked, some carrots placed in the soil will form a good trap, as the wireworms eat into them, and may easily be removed and destroyed.

PROPERTIES. The characteristics of a good Carnation are as follows: The pod (i.e., calyx) should be long, as then the flower is not liable to burst it, as is the case when it is short. The flower should be quite circular, and rising up gradually towards the centre, so as to form half a ball. The outer, or guard petals, should be large, and few in number, rising slightly above the calyx, then spreading horizontally; and the other petals should be regularly disposed on them, nearly flat, and diminish in size towards the centre. The texture of the petals should be thick and wax-like, and the markings distinct and clear; the ground a pure white, any flushing or running of the colour being a decided disqualification.

CLASSES. There are three distinct classes, viz.: Bizarres, Flakes, and Selfs. The Bizarres have a clear ground, variously marked and flaked with two or three colours; of these there are Crimson, Scarlet, and Pink and Purple varieties, each characterised by the distinguishing colours predominating. Flakes have a pure ground, flaked with one colour, of which there are Scarlet, Purple, and Rose varieties. Selfs should be one-coloured, in any shade, but the more defined, the more effective they are. The following is a selection of the best varieties in each class, at present grown, to which additions are constantly being made: