The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening

Every genus a Victorian gardener could grow — Abelia to Zygopetalum across four volumes, with each plant's history, species, and culture, by the Curator of Kew.

HomeC › Conservatory

Conservatory

This structure is distinguished from a greenhouse by having central beds, in which permanent plants are placed, in addition to those arranged to form a continued floral display on the side shelves. The term is also applied to small glass structures where a few creepers are planted for covering the roof or back wall, and the remaining space occupied by decorative foliage or flowering plants. The greatest enjoyment is obtained from a Conservatory either joined to the mansion or connected with it by means of a suitable corridor. An opportunity is then afforded of visiting and admiring the flowers in any weather or at any season. This arrangement is not always practicable with large glass houses, on account of the position of the mansion, or its style of architecture; consequently, the plan of having an isolated building has to be adopted. The latter is, as a rule, better suited to good cultivation, and gives greater facilities to the gardener for renewing and arranging the movable plants. In the other case, only a very limited time can be allowed each morning for such work. Conservatories found in gardens of an early period, have, in many cases, been built to correspond, and produce with the mansion an architectural effect. This much they may do, but they are wholly unsuited to good plant culture. If the external architecture of a Conservatory has to coincide with that of another building, the important and primary point of making suitable provision for the well-being of the plants internally, should also be in some way combined. Those of modern construction are invariably better in this respect than many of an earlier date. Only sufficient space is here available to give a few general remarks, that may be modified to suit individual requirements. The selection of position has at times no alternative, but if there is an opportunity, an open one with a south or south-west aspect should be chosen, so as to obtain all possible sunshine in winter. Shelter afforded by trees from north and east winds is also a great advantage at that season, but they should be sufficiently far away as not to overhang the house. Provision for admitting abundance of light and air, both at top and bottom, is of great importance. The ventilators at the apex only are best for winter use, but all may be utilised in summer, as cool-house flowering plants are soon injured in a close atmosphere or a high temperature. A thin shading is necessary in bright weather, but is best if placed on rollers, to admit of removal at other times. The heating apparatus should be capable of maintaining a temperature of 50deg. in winter, although it is not always advisable to keep so high as this. The pipes are best concealed as much as possible under the side stages, or a part may be under the floor, covered with perforated iron gratings, through which the heat will pass readily. In the formation of the ground plan, sufficient width should always be allowed for the paths. These may be made of gravel, and covered with white spar or shell, or a lasting floor may be formed of ornamental tiles that are specially made for the purpose. A kerbing of terra-cotta or stone should separate the paths from the beds of soil. Sufficient space cannot be obtained for placing many plants out of pots in small glass houses that adjoin or form part of a mansion. In large structures, of proportionate hight, a much greater diversity of plants, both in size and habit, may be introduced permanently. Beds for these must have ample drainage and a depth of nearly 3ft. of good soil, formed principally of loam and peat, with plenty of charcoal intermixed, to keep it open and allow water to pass freely. A cool fernery for the smaller growing varieties, placed in connection with, or forming part of, a Conservatory, is always a great source of attraction, especially if some rockwork is constructed on which to plant the ferns. This part should be on the northern side, or in the coolest position obtainable. Many such places are among the best for cultivating cool orchids, as the requisite moisture given the ferns is just what is required by the former when placed on inverted pots or suspended from the roof. Hanging baskets, if well filled and attended to, by watering frequently in summer, are always good additions to Conservatory decoration. Where there is sufficient space, large cool or temperate tree ferns, with others of a dwarfer type, also cycads and palms, may be introduced, with Araucarias, Aralias, Camellias, Dracaenas of the greenleaved type, greenhouse Rhododendrons, and many other plants of a similar habit, to form permanent features. Care must be taken, and forethought exercised, regarding their arrangement and the position to be occupied by each when fully developed. Climbers and pillar plants must not be omitted in any Conservatory, as many of these show to much greater advantage when grown in this way, although they may be amenable to other systems of culture. A few indispensable ones may be given: Begonia fuchsioides, Bougainvillea glabra, Cestrums, Fuchsias, Lapagerias, cool-house species of Passiflora, Plumbago capensis, climbing Tea or Noisette Roses, Tacsonia exoniensis and T. Van Volxemii, &c. Temporary plants, suitable for the embellishment of the stages and Conservatory generally, are endless in variety, and will be found recommended for the purpose under their respective headings. A band of Selaginella Kraussiana, about 9in. wide, planted on the margin of the beds, and, if practicable, on the side shelves also, tends greatly to increase the general effect produced by the plants. All Conservatories, and everything connected therewith, should at all times be kept as clean and tidy as possible.

← ConostephiumConvallaria →