The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening

Every genus a Victorian gardener could grow — Abelia to Zygopetalum across four volumes, with each plant's history, species, and culture, by the Curator of Kew.

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Cultivation (Having selected the site)

Having selected the site, deeply dig the ground for the Short varieties, or trench to a depth of from 18in. to 2ft. for the Long kinds. This should be done as early in autumn as possible, and the ground left in ridges for the winter, forking it over in spring. Before sowing, rake the ground level, and draw shallow drills, from 8in. to 12in. apart, according to the sort grown. In these drills thinly sow the seeds; and here a little discretion and care are required. The seeds being very liable to stick together, it is advisable that they should be mixed with sharp sand, and well rubbed between the hands, to separate them, otherwise the plants will come up in thick clusters or bunches. After sowing, lightly cover the seeds with fine soil, and again rake over the whole of the ground, to remove stones and make the soil fine. As soon as the rows can be seen, flat hoe the beds, to destroy weeds, or they will grow much faster than the Carrots, and make it a difficult matter to clear them. When the plants are large enough, thin them out to about 4in. apart, again removing some when large enough to cook. The main crops will be ripe and ready to lift during October, or early in November, according to the season. Carefully lift in dry weather, cutting off the leaves close to the crowns, and store the roots in moist sand or soil, in a cool place. For table use, the Horn varieties are, perhaps, the best. To secure a succession, sow small quantities on a warm border, under a wall, in February, in March, and again in April. The main crop should be sown about the end of March, and additional sowings made each month until August. The smaller kinds will only require a space of about 8in. between, and 6in. in the rows; on this account, they are most useful for small gardens.

Forcing. Early Carrots are generally in great demand, and to obtain them it is necessary to sow on a hotbed in early spring. A great heat is not necessary, but it should be constant. Stable litter, with plenty of leaves well mixed with it, should be prepared and put into a frame with a depth of 3ft. or 4ft. Tread it firmly and evenly, and allow it to remain for a few days before sowing. About 6in. of light soil will be sufficient, and the seeds may be sown thinly, either broadcast or in shallow drills, afterwards watering in. The first sowing should be made early in February, and succession beds kept up until the end of April, according to the quantity required. Give air on every favourable opportunity so soon as the plants are up, or they will quickly get drawn. They should only be moderately thinned at first, allowing them to grow large enough for use, and then removing the largest each time for this purpose. Early French Forcing is one of the best varieties for forcing purposes.

An umbel of Carrot, intact, is shown at Fig. 375. It is necessary to thoroughly separate the seeds before sowing.

Sorts. There are many varieties of Carrots in cultivation, but some are not fit for table use, on account of their pale colour or the hardness of the core. The following may be relied on as some of the best for any purpose. Forcing and early crops; Common Early Horn, Early French Forcing, Early Nantes, and Early Short Horn. Main crops: Altrincham, James's Intermediate, Long Horn, and Long Red Surrey.

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