Planting
This operation will depend somewhat on whether the land between the standard trees is to be laid down in grass, or dug and occupied with other crops and dwarf fruit-trees. If a piece of pasture land is taken for converting into an Orchard, without destroying the turf, it is most important that good-sized holes be dug out, so that the roots may be spread carefully, to their full length, in planting, and the soil moved for a considerable space round further than the distance to which they extend. Young trees would, however, be likely to succeed better were the land for an Orchard well broken up by deep ploughing, or, maybe, on a large scale, by steam cultivation, previous to being planted. The intervening space, to within a short distance of the trees, might then be annually cropped with such things as Potatoes or Turnips, but not with grain of any sort. As the trees get old enough for their heads to overshadow crops beneath, their roots will also have similarly extended, and the whole surface may then be sown with grass seeds, and changed into pasture. In tilled Orchards, where it is not intended to admit cattle at any time, the land between standard trees may be planted with others grown in bush or pyramid form, or with those usually termed small fruits. Standard fruit-trees for Orchards should have stems about 5ft. high, and be planted from 16ft. to 20ft. apart. A greater distance than this is sometimes recommended; but, as a rule, it is unnecessary, even for the admission of light and air, and the trees do not shelter each other so much as when they are somewhat closer together. November, if weather permits, is, perhaps, the best season for planting Orchards; but, if the operation cannot be conducted at this season, any favourable time up to the end of February may be selected, providing the weather is not frosty. No fruit-tree should be planted too deeply in the soil, with the idea of preventing its removal by the wind; a stake to each--in the case of standards, at least--must be provided for this purpose. The same depth as that to which the trees have previously been planted is usually a fairly good guide--say, from 3in. to 4in. of soil above the roots. Any newly-planted fruit-tree, over which the wind may have power, should, apart from being well trodden in, be securely staked, either temporarily or permanently, as the case may be; a little hay or moss, or a piece of old gutta-percha piping, should be placed where each tie is made, to prevent the bark being injured in tying, or afterwards by chafing. It is impossible for young roots to obtain a hold, if the trees are allowed to sway about, and break them off so soon as formed. A mulching of half-rotten manure, or anything of a non-conducting description, should always be applied to the surface so soon as the planting is finished; and watering occasionally, or, perhaps, frequently, according to the season, will doubtless be necessary throughout the following summer.
If the soil is of itself workable, as it should be, and fairly good, it would be best used alone around the roots of newly-planted trees. Manure is frequently very injurious in such a position, when it might be made of great benefit by being placed above, where its goodness could descend, and afford nourishment after some new root-growth were made. Feeding with manure may, at times, be carried to an excess; as, for instance, when strong, sappy growths are produced, instead of firm, short-jointed ones. A free growth should by all means be encouraged, particularly in young trees; but it is desirable that the wood should become well ripened in any case, and it is a necessity in trees large enough for bearing.
Pruning is not very much required in Orchards, except a little cutting back the first year or two, to insure evenly-balanced heads, and just enough thinning afterwards to prevent overcrowding. Much finer fruits are obtained from such fruit-trees as those planted in Orchards, when they are allowed to grow freely and naturally, always provided there is plenty of space for the admission of sun, air, and light.
Selections of Fruits for Orchards. Fruit-trees, as standards, to bear the exposure of an Orchard, must, of necessity, be free-growing, and of a hardy constitution, the degree of hardiness necessary being regulated somewhat by the locality. A list of such varieties of the principal fruits as are, from their strong-growing and generally productive nature, calculated to succeed, when treated in the way referred to, can only, therefore, be given. Apples. Alfriston, Beauty of Kent, Blenheim Orange, Cellini, Devonshire Quarrenden, Duchess of Oldenburg, Dumelow's Seedling, Fearn's Pippin, Golden Winter Pearmain, Hawthornden, Herefordshire Pearmain, Kentish Fillbasket, Keswick Codlin, Lane's Prince Albert, Lord Suffield, Manks Codlin, Mere de Menage, Northern Greening, Small's Admirable, Stirling Castle, Tower of Glammis, Warner's King, Worcester Pearmain, Wormsley Pippin, Yorkshire Greening.
Cherries. Adams' Crown, Bigarreau, Bigarreau Napoleon, Black Eagle, Buttner's Black Heart, Downton, Elton, Kentish, Knight's Early Black, Late Duke, May Duke, Morello.
Damsons. Cluster or Crittenden, Common, Farleigh Prolific, Prune, Rivers's Early.
Pears. Autumn Bergamot, Beurre Capiaumont, Doyenne Boussoch, Fertility, Hessle, Jargonelle, Jersey Gratioli, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Swan's Egg, Williams' Bon Chretien, Windsor, Winter Nelis.