Plums
Diamond, Early Orleans, Goliath, Pond's Seedling, Prince of Wales, Victoria.
ORCHARD HOUSE. A most useful structure, devoted to the cultivation more especially of fruit-trees that do not succeed favourably in the open air. There are but few localities over the area covered by the British Isles in which any of our comparatively tender fruits can be obtained in perfection annually outside, and, in the more Northern parts, many of them fail altogether to produce crops, except under glass protection. Pot culture of fruit-trees in Orchard Houses has been practised some thirty or more years. It was at first confined simply to providing glass structures on a roughly-built scale; but many improvements have since been suggested and carried out, as a result of the experience gained, and because of the extent to which the system has been adopted, not only in this country, but in some parts of the Continent, and more extensively in the United States. An Orchard House may be either heated or unheated. The mere protection it affords, in spring and summer, because of the bulk of warmed air contained in the interior, even when unheated by hot water, is most marked, even in favoured localities, when the fruits are gathered and compared with others of the same sorts grown outside. A very great advantage is, however, secured by having artificial heat at command in spring. At this season, mild weather may induce the blossoms to open earlier than is desirable, and a glass roof would be insufficient of itself to prevent injury, should there be a severe frost. Again, the prevalence of dull, cold weather at the same season is generally more injurious to expanded fruit blossoms than even a little frost with bright days; and this is the time for using a little artificial heat. It need not, and, in fact, must not, be used very much; but the exclusion of frost, and the preservation of a somewhat dry and airy atmosphere, are most important points to be secured onwards from the time the flower-buds expand. When the fruits are set, a little warmth will also materially help them to commence swelling: the fact that they cannot stand still, but must either swell in a short time or drop off, is but insufficiently recognised in gardens generally. Great attention is devoted to fruit-trees when in flower; they are protected by glass, and by coverings of various descriptions--very important precautions, certainly, yet, of themselves, only part of the necessary provision that should be made for assisting the fruits beyond, as well as at the flowering stage, when the weather is unfavourable towards them. A little heat at command also renders an Orchard House of much greater value in winter, when the fruit-trees are dormant. If the latter are limited mostly to such as are grown in pots, they may be arranged nearly close together, or even plunged amongst dry litter or bracken in a sheltered position outside, the house mean-while being used for plants, such as Chrysanthemums, or others of a hard-wooded description, that flower naturally or have to be forced in spring. Orchard Houses are not usually meant to be used for forcing purposes, although fruit from trees in pots has, under proper treatment, been obtained from such structures equal in quality to that produced in special forcing-houses. An attempt at forcing a number of different fruit-trees in one temperature, and under similar conditions, would, moreover, end in failure--at least, in part. Take the same collection, and gradually bring the different trees forming it into flower, afford them protection at that time, and due attention in respect of cultural requirements throughout the summer, and, in all likelihood, the purpose will be effected for which an Orchard House proper should be intended. Plenty of heat is provided by the sun during summer; it should be utilised to the fullest extent just after the fruits are set, by closing the ventilators somewhat earlier on fine afternoons at that season than is requisite at other times. Fire heat should only be used when it becomes really necessary, and then a little ventilation at the same time is most desirable. To have it at command is, however, a valuable acquisition, which is of material importance for insuring crops, when, otherwise, they would be most likely to fail. Orchard Houses, in their simplest forms, are unheated; but the insertion of hot-water pipes, if only enough to exclude frost, is confidently recommended, for the several reasons already set forth. The main object is that of providing accommodation for the culture of good varieties of somewhat tender fruits, in order that finer produce and superior quality may be secured than that which it is possible to obtain from trees on outside walls, or from such as are in the open ground. The reference to selection being confined to good varieties, is suggestive of what should be specially considered in giving space to trees in an Orchard House. If the fruits of any are but second-rate when so favoured, the trees should be discarded in favour of others that are more certain to fulfil expectations, and repay the extra attention afforded. The Orchard House and its uses having been so far explained, a reference may now be made to its size and shape, and to the general cultivation and treatment of the various fruit-trees worthy of being included amongst its occupants.
Size and Shape. These are points affecting each other somewhat considerably, so much depending on requirements, and the extent to which it is desirable or possible to adopt the system of fruit culture under notice. The form of structure best adapted is the span roof, as it affords a full amount of light to trees on all sides, and due provision can be made for the admission and free circulation of air, both at top and bottom--in the first place, by means of lifting a portion of roof at the apex, and, in the second, by the opening of upright sashes, situated above the side walls 'or weather-boarding--the latter being sometimes substituted in lieu of walls. In many Orchard Houses, only a little top ventilation is given in proportion to the quantity of air required, but there must be some to cause a free circulation about the trees. Airing is mainly conducted by means of side sashes, or by some method of ventilation situated near the ground line. Proportionate sizes for a rather large span-roofed Orchard House would be 50ft. long by about 24ft. wide, and from 12ft. to 15ft. high from the floor line to the apex; the height at the sides should be 6ft. This would admit of either a central or a side path arrangement inside. If a centre path were desired, beds could be formed on either side, for planting trees in or for standing them on, if grown in pots. A bed in the middle admits of more head-room for trees; but, in a house of the dimensions given above, a much better arrangement seems to be that of having a straight, neat path, made of gravel, from one end door to the other, a bed or border being on either side, then another narrow path for workmen to attend to watering, &c., and, finally, a border for dwarf trees round next the side sashes, and at the ends. Smaller span-roofed Houses, or those of another shape, would require a different arrangement; but these are, so far, only matters of taste, depending on the number and size of trees to be cultivated. Excellent fruits, particularly of Peaches and Nectarines, have been obtained from lean-to or half-span Orchard Houses; but these shapes do not admit of much head-room for trees in pots. The system of culture is of more importance than the form of house, yet the latter is of material help to the former; and the span-roof, having several points in its favour over any other shape, is, consequently, the one recommended.
Trees in Pots and Planted Out. Orchard Houses, in which it is desired to grow a variety of fruit-trees during spring and summer only, are best managed if the trees are grown in pots; a larger number may thus be accommodated in a given space than would be possible if they were planted out, and their portability allows them to be removed wherever desired, and to be placed up together in the winter. Planted-out trees do not require attention so frequently in watering; and, although this is an advantage, they are not so much under the command of the cultivators as if they were movable and their roots restricted. Pot-trees, on the other hand, depend very materially, for success or failure, on the attention given to watering. On an extensive scale, this means an enormous amount of work during the summer, as watering becomes necessary twice or thrice in a day. Manuring, by the application of a top-dressing of some rich compost and liquid manure, is also most essential in summer, in order to sustain health and fertility. It should be practised soon after the young fruits are set, and again when the second swelling begins. In the case of Peaches or Nectarines, a topdressing should be composed of some rich manure and good loam in equal quantities; this should, if possible, be saturated with some liquid manure a few days previous to being used. Horse-droppings have proved an excellent ingredient for such composts, and so also has malt-dust. The mixture should be laid on the surface of the other soil to a depth of about 4in., and the inner part towards the tree left hollow for receiving the water supplied and preventing it from running away. Fruit-trees in pots require to be kept very nearly dry at the roots during winter, as, although the latter are seldom or never altogether at rest, they need being kept from undue excitement at this season. If the roots are kept saturated with water, ripening of the wood is but improperly effected, and, consequently, on the return of spring, many blossoms are imperfectly developed that would have been pushed forth had a system of withholding water in winter been practised. In the case of trees in large pots, especially of Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches, there is seldom any necessity for watering at all between the beginning of November and the beginning of March, when the flower-buds will begin to swell or expand. It has already been stated that a sheltered place outside, in favourable parts of the country, will do, with proper coverings, for the winter, yet, for several reasons, Orchard-house trees are best kept under glass, if space can be afforded them in a structure where fire-heat is not allowed. Exposure to severe weather is ruinous to them. The pots would require a covering of bracken or dry litter all the same, to prevent their being burst by frost, should it be severe enough to reach them. Pot culture, in an Orchard House, has also another advantage, inasmuch as a greater variety can be grown in a given space, and if any sorts are found unworthy of having special treatment afforded to bring their fruit to perfection, they can readily be discarded, and their space re-occupied by other pot-trees of superior merit. It is most important that no roots be allowed to pass through the bottom and establish themselves in a border; consequently, provision should be made for preventing this, by placing two bricks together, and standing the pots on them.
Potting, or re-potting, of Orchard-house trees should be attended to soon after the fruits are gathered, and before the leaves drop. A large heap of soil should be prepared beforehand, where there is much to be done, and allowed, after being well mixed, to remain for a few days--or weeks, for that matter. It should be composed of about two-thirds loam, rather tenacious preferred, the other portion being well-decomposed manure. To this may be added, with advantage, some sifted brick and mortar rubbish, or chalk, particularly for stone fruits, and sufficient bone-dust or fine horn-shavings to be visible when the bulk is mixed up. Trees that are in large pots, and are healthy, do not absolutely need their balls disturbed every year, beyond removing some old soil off the surface, and replacing it with new. Whenever the drainage is defective, or the roots or soil in bad condition, the trees should be taken out, their balls reduced with a pointed stick, and replaced in clean, properly-drained pots of a similar, or, maybe, even a smaller, size. Sufficient space must be allowed above the ball for the large quantity of water required in summer, and the soil should be rendered firm with a stout hand-rammer. When top-dressing only is intended, it may be practised in October with a stronger compost than that described above for potting, namely, more manure in proportion to the loam used; but a general overhaul is recommended earlier in the season, and new drainage, clean pots, and fresh soil supplied to the old (reduced) balls, with only few exceptions. Water should be given very sparingly after re-potting, until the injured roots shall have recovered somewhat the check experienced; it is most important, however, that the compost, when used, be suitably moist and workable. Before the flower-buds are so far expanded in spring as to show their colour inside, it will be advisable to stand the trees apart, as, if this is delayed, there is great danger of a large number of the former getting broken off. This appears a small matter to refer to; yet, from its apparent unimportance, it is frequently neglected, and many blossoms become broken off in consequence. It is almost an impossibility to separate entangled branches without such a result.
Thus much having been said respecting the culture of Orchard-house trees in pots, a reference may now be made to those planted out in a similar structure. First, it will be necessary to prepare borders of soil suitable for fruit-trees, instead of those of almost any description, which might answer well enough for pots to stand upon. It is unnecessary to make borders of a great depth; 2ft. of soil above the drainage is usually quite sufficient for such trees as may be recommended for planting out, such as Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines. The soil for borders must be somewhat tenacious, and not be made over rich with manure. It should be rendered quite firm, by being rammed a few days after the trees have been planted and watered. It is important that fruit borders in Orchard Houses be allowed to remain firm and hard on the surface; the latter should not be broken, except being very slightly forked, in spring, to admit water all over alike. Surface roots are numerous on healthy trees, and they must not be broken off in spring, or there will be a great risk of the flowers dropping off, instead of setting. Mulchings of manure, or top-dressings, may be applied to planted-out trees, in summer, if they have heavy crops, and need help; but both should be avoided if there is evidence of the branches or shoots being already too vigorous, and, consequently, not likely to ripen well. Standard trees are, generally, best suited for planting out; those of pyramidal shape are soon liable to become uneven, because of the sap flowing more towards the upper branches and shoots, making them too gross, and rendering the lower ones weakly. This latter style of training is most successfully practised in pots, and, if standards are to be accommodated in borders, they should be sufficiently wide apart to admit of some pot-trees being arranged between. Standard Peaches and Nectarines are not, as a rule, very satisfactory, unless their heads are kept under proper management, and the shoots thinned so as to admit sun and air amongst them for properly ripening and colouring the fruit. Pear or Apple-trees are apt to grow too vigorously for planting in an Orchard House; their roots should be restricted in large pots. Apricots succeed well as standards in Orchard Houses. The border, when prepared for them, should have a small portion of chalk intermixed, and some would also be of service to trees of the Peach and Nectarine. The soil should be made very firm, by treading and ramming, and, above all, should not be disturbed afterwards more than what is really necessary for getting water to soak in properly.
Methods of Training for Orchard-house Trees. The two kinds of fruit favoured, perhaps, most extensively with Orchard House protection, are Peaches and Nectarines. It has already been stated that, for planting in borders, standards or half standards, according to the height of the structure, are best suited for these fruits, and also for Apricots. The two first-named may be grown in pots as pyramids, or as bushes, the Apricot in pots being best adapted for the latter shape, or as a half standard. Cherries are most important Orchard House fruits, at least, if compact-growing sorts are selected, and they are worked on the Mahaleb stock, which induces a dwarf habit. The form of Cherry-tree most eligible either for planting or pot culture, is the pyramid. Plums of the finer dessert varieties are well worthy of glass protection, previous to, at the time of flowering, and throughout the season, in unfavourable districts. In warm parts, the trees are best to be placed outside, in a sheltered position, after the fruits are set. The fruits are considered superior if they can be properly ripened in the open air; but, should this be impracticable, the trees may be kept under glass, and subjected to free ventilation. It is when the trees are in flower that prospects of a crop are so frequently blighted by the havoc generally resulting from frost, rough weather, or a continued low temperature at that season. Pears are under the same disadvantage as Plums, and they succeed, under similar treatment, in Orchard Houses. Trees of both are best adapted for training in pyramidal form, and Pears are most fertile, and best suited for pot culture, when worked on Quince stocks. None but good varieties should be accommodated in an Orchard House, as considerable labour is incurred in potting, watering, and supplying all other requirements throughout the year. Apples also come under Orchard House fruits, as many of the good, yet somewhat tender, varieties, have been most successfully grown under glass, and the superior quality of the fruit obtained, compared with that of a similar sort from outside, has been favourably marked in respect of size, colouring, and flavour. Apples from trees grown under glass are readily distinguished, in an autumn exhibition, from all that have not been so favourably situated. This tree, like those last-named, succeeds in pots as a pyramid, preferably on the Paradise stock. Figs are sometimes included in Orchard House fruits; but they are best if provided with a higher mean temperature; and a house or compartment to themselves. A tree which should, if possible, be accorded a place along with Apricots, Peaches, &c., is the Mulberry. A good-sized standard of this in a tub will occupy but little space, and it will fruit abundantly, and the produce be far superior to any usually procured from the open air. Judicious summer pinching is most important in the training of Orchard House trees in pots, or of those planted out. Cordons are sometimes very useful, where space is limited, as excellent fruits are frequently obtained from trees of that form. Maiden trees can only properly be trained into the desired shape by people somewhat experienced in the art; yet sufficient knowledge may soon be obtained, by practice and observation, to supply all the attention necessary for preserving a fairly even balance afterwards. Summer pinching of the leading shoots may be practised twice, or even three times, in a year, to induce a compact habit. Cordon trees may be pinched to three leaves or joints; bushes and pyramids may be allowed from four to six. Overcrowding must specially be prevented, otherwise sunshine, light, and a free circulation of air, are much impeded, to the detriment of the fruits, if there are any, or, at any rate, to the proper ripening of the shoots for the following year. Young trained trees of all sorts, suitable for culture in Orchard Houses, may be purchased from nurserymen who make such things a speciality, already established in pots, and set with blossom buds. Pruning may be performed in early spring, but it will not amount to very much, if summer pinching has been properly attended to, beyond thinning, and removing weak and superfluous shoots.
Airing and Temperatures. The Orchard House, above all other garden structures, should be provided with plenty of ventilation. This matter has already been referred to, but may receive a further notice. A spanroofed house, for the purpose named, should, preferably, run north and south; consequently, the side next the east will need to be carefully managed when cold winds from that quarter prevail, and there are any blossoms or tender foliage. In winter, the house, supposing the trees are inside, should be kept wide open whenever the temperature is above the freezing point. In spring, under such treatment, the trees will naturally move somewhat earlier than they would outside, yet they must never be unduly excited. A night temperature of 40deg. will be high enough, or even less than this, if the weather is severe. It should be remembered, that a confined atmosphere is more destructive to fruit blossoms under glass, particularly Apricots, Cherries, Plums, and Pears, than even a little frost. A circulation of air should, therefore, always be maintained, by leaving the ventilators open, more or less, night and day, according to the weather, until the fruits are properly set. Pears and Plums especially require a dry atmosphere, and plenty of air, to insure their setting freely. If fire-heat is at command, it will prove of immense advantage at this season, should frost or very dull weather prevail, yet it must be most cautiously applied, or more harm than good may result. By the time all the fruits are properly set, the season will have considerably advanced, and more solar heat will be procurable. This must be taken full advantage of, by closing early in the afternoons, with the exception of a little ventilation, which should be always kept on. In summer, early attention must be given to airing each fine morning, and the greatest possible amount of air be gradually admitted during the hotter portion of the day. No fixed scale of temperatures for the summer need be given, as it would be unnecessary to attempt following it in dealing with fruit-trees in Orchard Houses. The sun usually supplies sufficient heat after the end of April or May, without the use of hot water; and it is left for the cultivator to moderate its, at times, overpowering influence, by the admission of air, and the application of water about the house, and to utilise and conserve its valuable properties, by nearly closing the structure each day when the sun's power has sufficiently declined.
Syringing is an important point to be attended to in the culture of Orchard-house trees. From the time the fruits are safely set, until they begin to ripen, each tree should be thoroughly syringed, both in early morning and in the afternoon, except at times when experience and the weather suggest omissions. The water used should be of a similar temperature to that of the house, and it should be applied--preferably through a garden engine--with considerable force, after the foliage gets strong enough to withstand it. So soon as the fruits are gathered, pot trees may be stood in a sunny position outside, to thoroughly ripen their wood. They must, however, receive an equal amount of attention, in respect of watering, &c., as before. Trees planted under glass must have all the exposure possible.
Insects. Orchard-house trees seldom escape the attacks of several most destructive insect pests. No sooner are leaves developed, than Green or Black Aphides appear; sometimes the latter are to be seen first on the wood, or fruit blossoms. Fumigation, on two or three successive evenings, will dislodge these pests; but this must only be practised previous to, or after, the trees have flowered. Red Spider is invariably found, in greater or less quantities, on fruit-trees under glass. It can be kept in check by the frequent syringing already recommended, both beneath and above the leaves, but seldom altogether destroyed by any available application. Brown Scale is also frequently to be seen on fruit-trees; it fixes itself in crevices, and on the bark, and can best be destroyed by hand-washing, or scrubbing with a rather strong solution of soft-soap water.
ORCHESTES (Spring Weevils). The name given to a genus of Curculionidae (small beetles) that, at times, do great harm to Beech-trees and hedges, and, in a less degree, to Oaks, and to a few other trees. They are usually about 1/8in. long, but may vary from 1/10in. to 1/5in., and, in colour, are reddish, brown, or black. The body is nearly oval; the head is small, and the beak about as long as the thorax, and strongly bent downwards; the antennae are situated near the base of the beak, and are eleven-jointed and elbowed, with the club oblong-ovate. But the most ready means of recognising them is their power of leaping, which is given by the great size of the thighs of the last pair of legs. The enlarged thighs contain correspondingly powerful muscles, and the beetles, when touched, leap surprising distances.
Mode of Life. Those that survive the winter eat their way into buds, and the females lay their eggs alongside the midribs, on the lower surface of the leaves. The larvae burrow into the leaves, and there form large galleries or patches between the surfaces, and in these change to pupae, from which the beetles soon emerge. A severe attack by these insects on any kind of tree or shrub causes the leaves to become prematurely withered, or even useless, and considerably injures the health of the plants.
Remedies. In the mornings, shake the beetles off the plants, over a tarred vessel, from which they cannot escape, and pick off and destroy the leaves that show mines of the larvae. Of course, both methods are applicable only to small trees. Very little can be done to limit the injury to forest-trees; but of these we are not treating here. The most hurtful insects in this genus are: O. Fagi--a small species (1/10in. long), black, with a faintly reddish, less often greenish, thin coating of short hairs, limbs paler, thighs one-toothed--often very abundant in June and July on Beeches; and O. Quercus--which is larger (1/8in. to 1/5in. long), of a dull brick-red colour, slightly hairy, eyes black, wing-cases with a large triangular ashy patch over their place of meeting at the base, thighs of front legs each one-toothed, of hinder pair each with a double row of six or seven spines--frequent on Oaks. Others occur on Alder, Hazel, Elm, &c., but do not call for a longer notice. ORCHIDEAE. A very large order of monocotyle-donous plants, and one of the most natural families of the vegetable kingdom. Herbaceous terrestrial perennials, with tuberous or fascicled roots; epiphytes (with or without pseudo-bulbs), found generally growing on the trunks of trees, to which they attach themselves by their long adventitious roots; or saprophytes. Flowers solitary, spicate, racemose or paniculate; perianth superior, irregular, of six coloured segments, the three outer (the sepals) nearly similar, free, or the two lower ones connate (Cypripedium), or all three coherent (Masdevallia); the inner lateral (the petals) similar; the third inner segment (the lip) originally superior, but afterwards becoming inferior by the twisting of the pedicel, dissimilar, usually larger, extremely varied in shape and colouring, frequently spurred (Angraecum, &c.) or pouched (Cypripedium); stamens united with the style into a column, usually one opposite the upper sepal, sometimes two (Cypripedium) opposite the two lateral petals; anther two-celled (or one-celled by absorption of the septum), or four-celled by more or less perfect secondary septa; pollen agglomerated into two, four, or eight, pear-shaped, usually stalked masses (pollinia), lodged in the membranous pockets of the anther, and composed of grains, usually collected by fours into numerous groups, cohering by means of elastic filaments, or gathered round a cellular axis; grains sub-pulverulent, easily separable, or agglutinated into a solid, compact, waxy tissue; pollenmasses sometimes free, usually fixed, either directly or by means of a pedicel (caudicle), to a viscous gland (retinaculum), which may be exposed, or inclosed in one or two pouches; ovary inferior, often long, and twisted, one-celled (more rarely three-celled), trigonous; style often terminating in a beak (rostellum) at the base of the anther, or between its cells; stigma a viscid surface facing the lip, beneath the rostellum; seeds innumerable, very minute, fusiform; testa very lax-reticulate and albuminate. Leaves sheathing at the base, glabrous, rarely velvety (Eria), very firm in texture (Cattleya), or membranous (Liparis), cylindric (Brassavola), linear (Isochilus), or linear-lanceolate, usually entire or emarginate, as in Vanda, or some Angraecums, fan-shaped (Pogonia) or heart-shaped (Listera); nerves parallel, rarely reticulate (Dossinia, &c.), now and then developing buds on their surfaces, as in some Spiranthes and Malaxis. Stem or scape usually simple, cylindric or angular, often leafless. According to the authors of the " Genera Plantarum," there are 334 genera and about 5000 species; in that work, these are divided into five tribes, the principal distinguishing characteristics of each being here given.