Transplanting
The act of removing any plant or tree from one situation, and transferring it to another, lifting it bodily, and placing the roots in new soil. The operation is one which is of the greatest practical utility, and is in daily practice on a most extensive scale. Because of the possibility of Transplanting, seedlings may be raised in immense quantities in a comparatively small space, and carefully tended in the younger stages of growth; plants and trees that are gradually developing may be lifted, and allowed additional space according to their requirements; and others, with some few exceptions, that reach a considerable size, may, with proper appliances, be transferred to particular situations for producing an immediate effect. Transplanting forms one of the chief divisions of labour in nurseries, where, by its aid, thousands of plants are being continually prepared, in a limited area, for dispersing, eventually, over hundreds of acres of land. Fruit-trees may also be prepared in any quantity in nurseries, and grown, if desired, into a size large enough for bearing, when, at the proper season, they may be safely lifted and despatched for planting elsewhere, in private and other establishments.
In private gardens, Transplanting of seedlings of various descriptions and sizes forms part of the routine work, more or less, all the year round, but more especially in spring and early summer. Amongst the most important points to consider are the proper seasons for performing the work successfully, the previous preparation of the ground, and also the plants, if necessary, the operation of lifting, conveying to the new situation, and replanting, and after-management until the roots have re-established themselves. It scarcely need be said that considerable knowledge of the subject, and the exercise of much judgment and care, are necessary for Transplanting on an extensive scale, and with success. Some of these provisions are always essentials in the management of every garden. It is next to impossible to lift a plant that has been growing in the ground, and place it again in soil elsewhere, without cutting or breaking some of the roots, which, at least in a young state, are invariably tender in nearly every kind of tree and plant. In some cases this is comparatively unimportant--it may even be advantageous--but in others it may be quite the reverse. Sometimes, the spongioles, which extract nourishment from the soil, are numerous, and if a few become injured, there are plenty left for sustaining the plant; in other instances, there are but few, and then a greater risk is incurred. The proper season for Transplanting depends upon the kind of plant. Seedlings of vegetable crops, and tender or half-hardy plants raised under glass, generally need inserting into new soil soon after they become large enough to handle, in order to allow each individual more space and to prevent injury from overcrowding. The operation may have to be repeated, in some instances, two or three times before the permanent positions are reached; but, as a rule, it is with such plants one of the easiest performed, the chief precautions requisite being a good watering and shade for a few days, should it be necessary. Transplanting is, however, always best performed in dull, mild, and preferably damp weather: there is then less evaporation going on, and the ground is usually in better condition for working. Dry weather is not favourable for the work; it is important to watch opportunities, and never to lift plants until the new situation has been prepared for receiving them. The act of pricking out seedlings and frequently removing plants when in a young state, so far as may be consistent with their well-being, causes an increase of roots and also keeps them closer to the base. This is an advantage, inasmuch as every operation renders success in any subsequent Transplanting more certain, because of its effect in preventing an unlimited extension of the main spongioles. Beyond the recommendation that all seedling plants raised under glass and in seed-beds, for growing out of doors, should be moved, so far as possible, only when the weather is favourable for a quick renewal of growth, little further need be said here respecting them. Root action takes place most quickly when the soil is light; it is therefore a good plan generally to provide a light compost for seedlings, even if they require to be transferred into a heavier one when more fully developed. The Transplanting of fruit-trees, ornamental and forest-trees, and shrubs of every description, into what may be considered more or less permanent quarters, forms annually a very important undertaking in many establishments, particularly when alterations are taking place, and new gardens or grounds are being laid out. As the usual sources of supply are the nurseries, the trees have often to be forwarded a long distance before reaching their destination. This not unfrequently has an injurious effect if the soil falls away when unpacking, or the roots become dry from a certain amount of exposure, which is often unavoidable. There is a vast difference between Transplanting trees or shrubs from one place to another in the same garden, and procuring them from a nursery. In the former case, the roots need only be exposed for a very short time if the work is properly managed, and, providing the weather is favourable, it may be conducted at seasons when long exposure would entail certain loss. Frequent Transplanting in the nursery keeps, as already noted, the roots close home, and this renders lifting and packing a more successful process than it otherwise would be. Trees and plants of any description should never be longer on a journey than is really necessary; they should be unpacked immediately on reaching their destination, and, if they cannot be immediately planted in their new quarters, the roots should be covered with soil. Root action may, and doubtless does, in many subjects, recommence gradually, very soon or directly after the work of Transplanting is completed: hence the importance of placing trees or plants at once in permanent positions, to prevent further disturbance.
The methods of Transplanting vary considerably in detail, according to different plants, and the manner in which their roots are naturally disposed. Some are deep, others shallow, rooting; and at times it is desirable, as in the case of some fruit-trees, to check the natural tendency when Transplanting, and to place roots in a horizontal direction, instead of allowing them to proceed downwards. There are some directions which are generally applicable, and these may be briefly referred to; the special details attending the management of individual plants or kind of trees can only be given in dealing with their cultivation separately. Usually, the hole should be first prepared, unless there are two sets of workmen--one digging holes, and the other lifting the plants. The requisite breadth and depth depends on the quantity and length of roots, but plenty of space should be allowed to spread them at full length, and to work readily all round. If the top soil is of better quality than that beneath, it may be placed on one side of the hole and mixed with some new, if the plant requires it. The bottom of the hole should be well broken up, and raised a little in the centre under the base of the plant. Having thus far prepared the hole, the plant may be placed in position, and the roots spread out evenly. It is best to ascertain first if the depth is all right, by laying a rod or drawing a small line across the top, taking a fair level on both sides. On no account should tree-trunks be buried, though they may be kept slightly lower than the ground level, in order that water may readily pass to the roots. A rod or line laid close to the trunk will show immediately if it is necessary to raise or lower the base, and any alteration can soon be made before filling in. Carefully spread out all the roots with the hand, and, should there be any hollow places beneath, fill in some soil to insure a firm resting-place. All soil that is placed in contact with the roots, both beneath and above, should be rather fine, and in a friable condition; this is very important, as hard lumps, or anything of too heavy a nature, would not fill up the cavities satisfactorily. Once the roots are arranged and covered, the holes may be filled up and trodden sufficiently, as the work proceeds, to render the whole firm. All trees that are of sufficient height to be blown about and injured by rough winds, should be securely staked so soon as transplanted, or supported in some way, for preventing injury to the roots which would be caused were the trees allowed to sway about. In the case of standard or tall trees, transplanted for immediate effect, or for fruit-bearing, two or three guy ropes prevent this most effectually, and they may frequently be dispensed with so soon as the roots re-establish themselves. When lifting a tree for Transplanting, it is best to tie up with some soft cord any branches that may be near the base, and to commence digging out a spit of soil outside the line to which it is calculated the roots will reach. Then use a fork from the base of the tree outwards to separate the roots, but preserve as large a ball of earth as may be convenient to move, unless the tree is of a sort which transplants readily with bare roots. All roots which become mutilated had better be cut clean off before replanting; also any small ones, which sometimes die back--as, for instance, when trees have to be sent on a long journey. The necessity for watering depends very much on the season and the nature of the soil; if the subsoil is gravelly, a heavy watering would seldom do any harm, and water is the best of all substances for consolidating the top soil and roots. Watering is not so requisite in autumn as in spring Transplanting; but attention must be given to the subject throughout the summer immediately following. A mulching of loose litter or light manure, placed above the roots for a season, tends greatly to prevent evaporation, and to keep them moist even in dry weather. The foregoing remarks are generally applicable to the Transplanting of any fruit and forest-trees, also all shrubs of moderate size that are amenable to the operation. The best seasons for performing the work, like other details, vary with individual subjects; some will transplant successfully at almost any season when carefully managed, while others are best moved at one particular period of the year. As a rule, all deciduous trees and shrubs transplant best in the autumn as soon as most of their leaves have fallen. These, and also Conifers and shrubs of all kinds, may generally be moved with safety any time during October, and up till the middle of November. There is then sufficient warmth in the soil to encourage the production of new roots before winter, and this is of great advantage. Transplanting may be proceeded with all through the winter whenever the weather is favourable; but the seasons when there is a certain amount of activity--as October and the early part of November, already mentioned--and a period immediately preceding the resumption of active growth in spring (February and March), are preferable. From the middle of November till the middle of January is the worst period for Transplanting, as vegetation is then so inactive, and the temperature of the ground very low. This period should not, therefore, be chosen by anyone who has but a moderate amount of the work to perform in any one season. Evergreen plants may be successfully moved later in the spring than deciduous ones, and Hollies transplant better in May, just as new growth begins, than at any other season. Rhododendrons may best be moved in March, or early in April. Such plants as half-hardy annuals, raised under glass for flowering in the open borders, are best transplanted into permanent positions before their flower-stems show; and hardy perennials which require division should be attended to in spring, before the annual growth is begun. Naturally, anything which is growing in a pot may be planted out in the open at periods when it would often be hazardous to attempt lifting the same individual from the ground. Transplanting in its entirety is therefore a subject the details of which have an extremely wide application; the after-success will generally well repay for close attention to detail when performing the work. Briefly, the principal points are these: Lift the roots with the least possible injury, make the new holes sufficiently wide that all may be spread at full length; and, after regulating them with the hand, cover with soil that is in a good, workable condition. Avoid having any roots doubled underneath--when the tree is placed into its new position this must be guarded against--and secure the stem from rocking about with the wind afterwards. Give a copious watering soon after planting, or at a future period, according to the season and state of the soil, to consolidate all the earth which has been moved, and to supply moisture, of which the roots will be in special need, to enable them to re-establish themselves. Transplanting of trees and shrubs of an unusual size is practicable by the use of mechanical means and plenty of strength. For filling up a blank in any important place, such as an avenue, or for planting with a view to producing an immediate effect, the work is sometimes undertaken, though, of course, under more or less exceptional circumstances. The trees must first be at hand, or be procurable within reasonable distance for removing, and they must be of a nature likely to transplant successfully with due care and previous preparation if necessary; they must also be situated where removal is practicable. With a view to safely Transplanting trees of a larger size than usual, a system of preparation one year in advance is advisable, particularly if the specimens are valuable. This consists in cutting a trench round the stem, at a distance which depends on the size of the ball which it is intended to move, and severing with a knife the large roots that reach thus far, making a clean cut. Previous to digging the trench, some new soil, of a light rather than heavy nature, should be prepared and brought alongside ready for use. Without allowing the roots to be long exposed, the trench should be filled up again with the fresh compost. In this, new feeders will usually push, during the following season, from the points which have been mutilated; and when the time for removing the tree arrives, the next trench requisite should be cut outside the one already referred to, and the young roots carefully preserved. Of course, cutting off the roots will effect a check on the vegetation and growth above ground. When there is a danger of the check being too great, the preparation is sometimes extended over two years, and only a half cut at one time. When this is practised, the circumference of the intended circular trench should be divided into about four equal parts, and two of these, opposite each other, dug out; the other two, which will also be opposite, may be left for treating similarly the next season. The principles which have been detailed in treating of the Transplanting of trees and plants of moderate size are similarly applicable, but on a larger scale, to those of unusual dimensions. If a ball of earth to be removed measures 2ft., 4ft., or 6ft. through, then the hole must be prepared so as to allow plenty of additional space for the roots to be spread out their full length. In starting to lift, it is best to begin wide, and allow sufficient room to work: the roots may be all the more readily separated from the soil and preserved from mutilation. For Transplanting trees with a great weight of soil attached to their roots, different machines or tree-lifters are in use; the management of these invariably requires the closest attention on the part of every workman who assists, as well as the person in charge. Hence, this work, when mechanical power is necessary, should be executed only by those who understand the business from practical experience. Two of the best tree-lifting or Transplanting machines are those known respectively as Mr. McNab's and Mr. Barron's. The diameter of the ball is limited with Mr. McNab's to that of the inner part of the machine, which travels on two high wheels and is provided with handles for guiding it. There are double rollers before and behind; those furthest from the handles lift out, and allow of the machine being placed in position for lifting with the tree in the centre. The ball is reduced to the proper size, and bound round with a piece of strong canvas and cords; then two strong boards, which belong to the machine, are placed just underneath at the bottom, and ropes are passed under their ends at right angles, and brought up to the rollers of the machine. When everything is ready, the plant is wound up sufficiently high for travelling by means of four cross shaped, iron levers or handles, which fit, at the point of intersection, on the ends of two of the rollers. One of the disadvantages in the use of this machine is the liability of the soil to fall out from the bottom of the ball, but this largely depends on the kind of soil and its tenacity, and also on the amount of roots which the plant possesses. The boards are also sometimes liable to shift from their proper places beneath, and allow the plant to fall through; but this is not a very frequent occurrence. These are but some of the risks that must be encountered if Transplanting machines are used; they only happen occasionally if the balls are firm, and everything is properly adjusted. Mr. Barron's Transplanting machine is capable of moving very large trees and masses of earth; it is, as may be imagined, very strongly constructed, and travels with the tree in an upright position. The weight is borne by two very strong rollers, whose ends rest on beams about 20ft. in length, that pass from the front to the back part of the machine, one on each side. There are four wheels, which stand rather high, to allow of the ball of earth being suspended beneath the beams, but above the ground line, for travelling. Two strong planks are placed through beneath the ball, as near as can be under the centre, to which are attached the lifting ropes or chains, and cross planks are also placed above these, to make sure of bringing the mass up together. When all is in readiness, the rollers are very gently turned by means of straight, steel, lever bars, and a snatch catches in cogs on each roller, and prevents it from running back. Whether ropes or chains are used for lifting, they must be of great strength, as a serious accident might be the result at any minute were anything to break. If the ground over which the wheels are to pass, when loaded with a tree, is not very firm, it is necessary to use planks 3in.thick for forming a roadway. When the tree reaches its destination, it has to be brought over the hole, which should by that time be in readiness, and lowered into position by having the process of lifting reversed. This requires, if anything, even greater care than lifting, as there is more danger of a great weight overcoming the workmen when they are lowering than when they are raising it.
The whole details of working any Transplanting machine are beyond what can be properly described on paper so as to be understood; the operation can only be learnt from persons who understand the matter and have a machine before them, and by practical experience. The latter is in this case, as in most others, the best teacher; and it becomes necessary that anyone who undertakes the removal of large trees should have had such experience, not only for performing the work successfully, but also because the operation is one which, if improperly executed, endangers the lives of workmen employed, apart from accidents to which they may be subjected in the event of any unavoidable mishap.