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Outdoor Bulb Culture (Soil may be prepared)
soil may be prepared for planting by incorporating into it a top dressing of well-decomposed manure to the depth of the spade. After frost has killed the tops allow the plants to dry out for a few days, then dig them up and store for the winter in a cool but frostproof place, allowing some of the soil to remain on the roots; otherwise, they must be covered with sand or dry soil to prevent undue shriveling during the winter months. Before storing allow the roots to dry out thoroughly.
Cannas are best propagated by division of the root stock. Unless it is desired to increase the stock as much as possible it is best to divide the roots into divisions containing several buds on each, but any piece of root having one bud will grow, although this is not practiced except for propagating purposes, the large stools giving a handsomer effect.
Plant from 1 to 3 feet apart depending upon whether the grower wishes to produce a mass effect or specimen plants. The blooming season is from midsummer to frost.
Varieties. Mrs. Alfred F. Conrad, salmon pink, Apricot, apricot color, City of Portland, pink. The President, red, Eureka, white, Austria, yellow. Mrs. Pierre S. du Pont, good pink. [159] DAHLIAS The Dahlia and the Chrysanthemum without a doubt reign supreme in the autumn garden. The varieties and types of garden dahlias are innumerable in variety of form and color varying from the single, collerette and pompon types to the large, handsome double flowers of the peony and decorative; the shaggy, graceful blooms of the cactus are a striking contrast to the tightly compressed, stiff flowers of the show dahlias, so well adapted for use in old-fashioned gardens.
For dahlia culture a sunny location that is airy but sheltered from high winds is best. The growth becomes weak and spindly in shady, stuffy situations; damp hollows in which early frosts settle must also be avoided in the selection of a site in order to prolong the autumn bloom as late as possible. The most suitable soil is a rich, well-drained, sandy loam; one that is light and porous, but containing enough humus to make it retentive of moisture. To prepare the soil, first top dress the bed with well-rotted cow manure or leaf mold, digging it into the bed to a depth of 18 inches; this deep trenching makes a well-aërated mellow soil through which the roots can readily strike.
If the soil in which it is desired to grow dahlias is unsuitable it is worth while to excavate the planting holes 18 inches deep and 18 inches square, filling them [160] with a suitable soil mixture of rich top soil, sand and leaf mold. It is best to prepare the beds the previous autumn, bone meal incorporated into the soil at this season will become available plant food the following spring. Before planting takes place in spring rake a light top dressing of wood ashes into the soil.
Field-grown tubers may be planted outdoors from May 1st to June 15th, preferably in late May or early June. First of all ram the stakes into position as this cannot be done so satisfactorily after growth starts. Make a hole 8 inches deep and place the tuber in it lying on its side with the bud close to the stake and cover it with 3 inches of soil, gradually filling up the hole as growth progresses. Set green plants 6 inches deep first removing their lower leaves; planting in this case must be deferred until the weather becomes settled and warm as the tender succulent growth is unable to withstand sudden drops of temperature.
During the growing season frequent cultivation will be necessary, in order to conserve the supply of moisture in the soil. Too much stress can hardly be laid on the necessity of keeping the soil well stirred. Artificial watering may be resorted to in hot, dry spells being careful to thoroughly drench the soil each time the work is done, followed by cultivation as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. If the bed is kept well [161] tilled the need for artificial watering will be greatly reduced. From time to time tie shoots needing support to the stakes, using raffia for this work; care must be taken to do any necessary tying loosely so as to allow for the expansion of the shoot as growth advances. As the season progresses and the buds begin to develop, a little extra food in the form of sheep manure will be appreciated, apply just before a rain or watering giving each plant 2 tablespoonfuls.
By now constant disbudding must be practiced if large blooms are desired. Remove all the buds down to the second joint allowing only the center one to remain. If the growth is dense it will be advisable to thin out some of the surplus shoots, only allowing each main trunk to bear 10 branches and removing every alternate one if more than this number develop. Cultivation during the flowering season must be shallow, a depth of 2 or 3 inches being sufficient.
Early in the season a deeper tillage is beneficial, but at this time it would be harmful by causing the plants to bloom poorly.
The flowers will keep better if they are cut in the late afternoon and plunged immediately into a pail of water, first removing the lower leaves, as when they are left in the water they poison the plants. Arrange the flowers in vases large enough so that the stems will [162] not be tightly pressed together, keep overnight in a cool place; when the flowers wilt plunge them in water just off a boil for a few minutes, then arrange in vases containing fresh cold water. After frost has killed the tops lift the roots, allow them to dry in the air for a few hours then store in a cool but frost-proof place, covering the tubers with sand.
Dahlias are propagated by means of division of the roots, seeds, cuttings and grafting. For the amateur, division of the roots is unquestionably the best method. The rule to observe in this work is to retain at least one good bud on each division. The buds do not grow on the tubers but on the crown to which the tubers are attached. Frequent division is advised for best results as large clumps of roots produce an abundance of vegetative growth at the expense of bloom. For further information on dahlia culture see "The Amateur's Book of the Dahlia," by Mrs. Charles H. Stout. A Few Leading Varieties. Patrick O'Mara (Decorative) orange tinged rose, Gorgeous (Peony) Scarlet and yellow, Foordhook Beauty (Peony) salmon and yellow, Hortulanus Fiet (Decorative) salmon shaded yellow, Crown of Gold (Decorative) vivid orange, Jack Rose, (Decorative) crimson, George Walters (Hybrid Cactus) salmon suffused gold, Mrs. J. G. Cassatt (Dec- [163] orative) bright cérise pink, Attraction (Cactus) mauve, W. E. Cooper, (Decorative) pink, Dreamlight (Peony) pale old rose.
Single Varieties. St. George, light yellow, Mona, bright salmon, Apple Blossoms, pink, petals tipped carmine.
GLADIOLI Gladioli bulbs may be grouped advantageously in the flower garden or border where the variety in height and growth of the surrounding foliage helps to conceal their stiff habit of growth. Their culture is exceedingly simple and the many varieties offered combine such lovely shades that one can hardly resist their charm. The flowers last well when cut which makes them very desirable for house decoration, and if the water is changed daily and the withered blooms removed the flowers will remain fresh for from five to ten days. It also helps to cut off the ends of the stems each day before putting them in fresh water. Gladioli like warm, sunny, locations and in common with other bulbous plants prefer a light, well-drained soil enriched with rotted manure. Plant the corms 4 or 5 inches deep, and from 3 to 6 inches apart, depending upon their size. It is especially necessary with gladioli to be careful not to allow any manure to touch the corms [164] when planting. In beds made especially for gladioli culture it is best to remove the surface 6 inches and work the manure into the soil below in order to avoid the danger of its touching the corm; after doing this, replace the surface soil.
The planting season is from April, after the frost leaves the ground, until July. From 21/2 to 3 months are required for maturity and a succession of bloom can be maintained from July to October by making plantings every 2 weeks from April to July.
During the summer all the care necessary will consist in keeping them well cultivated and lightly stirring into the soil an occasional application of sheep manure.
After the tops turn brown the corms may be lifted, dried, cleaned and stored away in a frost-proof place, until planting out time arrives in spring.