The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening

Every genus a Victorian gardener could grow — Abelia to Zygopetalum across four volumes, with each plant's history, species, and culture, by the Curator of Kew.

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Hardy Plants

Although this title may refer to all plants sufficiently hardy to withstand the winters of our variable climate unprotected, it more particularly applies to those which are herbaceous and of various heights, and to others of dwarf dimensions introduced from alpine regions. They may, in either case, be of annual, biennial, or perennial duration. A collection of Hardy Plants should form part of the occupants of every garden. The treatment of many of the most popular and useful is of the easiest description, provided due preparation be made in the first place, and ordinary attention bestowed afterwards in keeping the borders cleaned and the cultivated plants properly tied up, to protect them from rough winds. A large number of species of this class of plants are of botanical interest only; but, apart from these, a numerous selection, unsurpassed in beauty and usefulness when in flower, may be obtained for garden embellishment. Some are well adapted for massing in large or small beds, according to the several habits of plants so employed; the majority, however, most suitable for cultivation in private gardens may be better arranged in mixed borders, reserving the dwarf and more delicate kinds for special culture, if possible, on rockwork. A general display at any particular season is not usually the rule with Hardy Plants of a varied description, if we except that made by Narcissi and numerous other bulbs in spring. The flowering period of a mixed collection extends, with one or another genus, nearly throughout the year; spring and autumn being the seasons when most are represented-their requirements being more fully met by a somewhat cooler temperature and moister atmosphere than those experienced in summer. Various select perennials, grown in quantity, afford an invaluable supply of cut blossoms, especially in early autumn, when there is a scarcity, under glass, of flowers adapted for cutting. Their culture is a matter of great importance for this purpose alone. A large number of Hardy Plants, particularly the bulbous section, flower very early in spring, and these are additionally attractive on that account. We are indebted to the latter, and to a selection of hardy annuals and perennials, for furnishing flower beds in spring, and making them interesting, long before it is possible to plant the summer occupants. Spring gardening deserves considerably more attention than it at present receives; at least, in localities where the climate is favourable, and where there is room in the reserve ground for the preparation of plants. Some few gardens have a space specially set apart for hardy spring flowers, in which the latter are kept all the summer, and invariably succeed much better for not being much disturbed. Hardy bulbs, planted permanently, may be left alone with advantage, in such positions; and annual or perennial plants can be renewed as becomes necessary. A number of plants for spring gardening may be propagated annually from seed, or by division of old plants, in autumn, according to the different habits, or period of duration, belonging to each. Hardy spring-flowering subjects, such as Myosotis, Primroses, Polyanthus, Silenes, and Wallflowers, in variety, should be sown during the middle or latter part of summer, and be prepared, in the open ground, for placing out permanently in autumn. Dwarf perennials secured in quantity for associating with these, are: Alyssum saxatile, Arabis albida and its variegated variety, Aubrietias, Daisies, and dwarf species of Phlox. All these latter may be divided, and the stock largely increased, if desired, after flowering is over, or, better still, in August, on account of dry, hot weather. In geometrical summer flower gardening, perennials can scarcely be appropriately introduced; but, where bedding is of a mixed description, suitable positions may frequently be found for whole beds or masses of such plants as Anemone japonica alba, some of the dwarf species of Aster, Border Carnations, tall-growing Lobelias, Pent-stemons, Phloxes, Pyrethrums, &c. These are all attractive in their flowering seasons, and materially reduce the supply of more tender subjects, by filling the space in their stead. The majority of Hardy Plants may be readily raised from seeds, which may be sown in pots, and placed in a frame with a very slight heat, from the month of February throughout the summer; or they may be sown outside, after the middle of March, when germination is tolerably certain. Forwarding in frames sometimes has advantages; but it is important that the young plants thus treated be fully exposed to light, and not allowed to become drawn for want of air. A large proportion of perennials may be more readily propagated by division, and this is best performed early in autumn, or at the commencement of new growth in spring.

Preparation and Planting of Mixed Borders. In the preparation of a border for Hardy Plants, it is important that the soil be deeply trenched, so far as it will allow, the autumn previous to planting. If it is moderately rich and heavy, rather than light and sandy, it will be all the better, as many of the vigorous-growing species require a strong soil. Manure should be added at trenching time, to insure its proper incorporation amongst the soil; and, if the surface is laid rough for the winter, the border will be in good condition for planting early the following spring. Herbaceous subjects, in general, are not well suited for planting alone in a border. Mixed borders should not be less than 10ft. or 12ft. wide, and a greater width allows of a better arrangement being provided for the taller-growing sorts. Evergreen shrubs, planted irregularly according to their height, are advisable for permanently furnishing the border in winter, when the primary plants have died down, and they also afford protection from wind and strong sunshine in summer. The object in planting should be to dispose of the different colours, varieties, heights, &c., of the material at command, so that the whole shall prove equally interesting at all seasons, without a frequent repetition of similar effects in different parts. A knowledge of the habit, height, time of flowering, and other points in connection with the various plants employed, will be requisite on the part of the cultivator, to enable him to fix proper positions for each, so that a gradual rise in the heights is secured, at flowering time, from the front line to the back. This cannot always be secured during the first season, on account of the nature of the soil, and its effect on the growth of different plants; but any that are misplaced may be marked, and the error remedied the following season. Tall Asters, Delphiniums, Helianthus, &c., should be planted near the back; other plants, reaching a height of 2ft. to 3ft., placed about the middle; and dwarf ones, such as Aubrietias, Iberis, Pinks, Saxifrages, &c., near the front margin. Mixed borders may be utilised for the cultivation of an endless variety of plants in summer. Spring bulbs may be inserted at intervals, and allowed to take care of themselves; their positions should be marked by sticks or labels, to avoid injury being caused when the tops cannot be seen. Vacant spaces may be utilised for seeds of annuals, either hardy or tender, and these may be sown where the several heights will correspond, at the latter end of March. The general keeping of the mixed border consists in frequently tying up any tall-growing plants, that require it; but only those of an erect-growing habit should be thus treated, the stakes not being allowed to exceed the height of the plants, and inserted so as to be hidden by the foliage as much as possible. In moderately heavy soils, watering will not be much required; but, where the ground is light, almost any quantity may be applied in summer. The usual method of annually digging mixed borders, is not to be recommended, as many plants are surface-rooting, and are, consequently, much injured by the process: a slight forking over, to break the surface, and an addition of some leaf soil or light manure, about March, are beneficial. Sufficient space should be allowed each plant without overcrowding, and any subjects which spread beyond their limits-some of the Asters, for instance-should be considerably reduced each year. If alpines are introduced, they should be kept to the front line, and have stones placed round them, to keep the crowns above the ground line, and special soil added round their roots. A large number of these interesting dwarf plants may be successfully grown in mixed borders, if a little extra attention is bestowed on their cultivation, especially in raising the crowns somewhat, to prevent their damping off. Hardy Aquatic and Bog Plants. Numerous beautiful Hardy Plants succeed best in a very moist situation, and many require entire submersion in water. Where a pond or lake exists, advantage should be taken for providing some accommodation for them, and planting accordingly; or artificial preparation may be made for a limited quantity. Bog plants should, in most cases, have their crowns kept a little above the surface. They may either be planted out, or grown in pans, and plunged. Hardy aquatics, such as Aponogeton distachyon, Nuphar advena and N. lutea, Nymphaea alba and N. odorata, with several others, may be planted where there is a considerable space and depth of water. Calla palustris, Iris pseudacorus, Lythrum Salicaria, and Sagittaria sagittifolia, are examples of such as succeed near the edge, or in shallow water. Amongst others worthy of culture, and which succeed in moist, boggy situations, are: Anagallis tenella, Caltha palustris and its double form, Droseras, Parnassia palustris and other species, Primula rosea, Sarracenia purpurea, and Spiraea palmata.

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