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Protecting the Roses

"It will be seen by the method of winter-protection herein described that our aim was to prevent, if possible, thawing after frost had set in; to protect the plants from the drying effects of the strong winds, without preventing the free circulation of air. We have employed the same method of protection ever since, and generally we have been successful in bringing the plants through winter in very good condition." (Article, "The Minneapolis Municipal Rose-garden in Lyndale Park," by Theodore Wirth, in "The American Rose Annual," 1916, pages 79, 80.) Protecting Tree roses over winter is most important. Set up a box about 2 feet square, and high enough from the ground to encase the head, and fill this with soil to cover all but the topmost branches. No part needs protection more than the point where stock and branches join. Another method is to loosen the earth on two sides of the plants so they may easily be bent over without breaking anything and then, when staked to the ground, cover with 6, 8 or more inches of earth till danger of frost is past in spring, when they may again be reinstated and restaked. In some locations it may prove quite as convenient, and equally effective, to take up the plants entire, and bury them in a trench in the vegetable garden.

Protecting Roses from Enemies Eternal vigilance is the price of perfect flowers, because "prevention is better than cure." Vigorous, healthy plants are seldom troubled much.

The two golden rules to remember, says Mr. Edward Mawley, one-time President of the National Rose Society of England, are these: "Keep sharp watch out for the first appearance of insect or fungoid pests and adopt measures for destruction at once. Then persevere with the remedy adopted until a cure has been effected."

Our Lady Rosa likes cleanliness above all things, and will respond generously to these attentions. Keep your roses clean and healthy and they are almost certain to be happy. The beginner need not be dismayed at the array of troubles that may happen; if they do, these hints are offered as a "first aid." As a matter of fact, not all the pests are likely to appear in the same garden. Rose-growing is not so complicated or difficult as might appear. Insects Probably our worst enemy to roses is the ROSE CHAFER ("Rose Bug"), which is particularly severe on sandy soils. For this, handpicking into a vessel of kerosene is effective, or, as a preventive, spray every two weeks through June and July with bordeaux mixture (1 ounce to 1/2 gallons of water) or a solution of 1/2 pound of arsenate of lead in 12 gallons of water. This is also a good remedy for the ROSE-SLUG, which skeletonizes the leaves. It works from the under side of the foliage so when going after it, turn the foliage down side up and spray it thoroughly.

APHIDES, or GREEN FLIES, attack the plants during May and June, and, if not dispatched, they multiply rapidly, and suck the life-blood from the leaves. A vigorous spraying of black-leaf 40 or whale-oil soap will settle them. SCALE seldom bothers any except old, neglected shrub roses. Use scalecide or lime-sulphur wash.

Diseases Of the fungous diseases, POWDERY MILDEW is by far the worst and most difficult to overcome. It will be recognized as a white mold appearing on the foliage, which, if not checked, will spread.

This is most likely to occur in warm, damp weather, and certain varieties, such as Crimson Ramblers, are more subject to its attacks. Bordeaux mixture, applied at fortnightly intervals, is a good preventive (see formula above). Even better, use sulphur arsenate dust mixture. Formula: Nine parts finely powdered sulphur to one part arsenate of lead. Apply with a dust gun. For BLACK-SPOT, Rust, and other fungous diseases, follow the same course. Also promptly remove and burn foliage thus affected.