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Pruning (Consists in removing any part)

Pruning consists in removing any part of a tree, either stem, branches, or roots, with a view to repressing growth in one direction, and directing the course of sap towards other parts of the tree which are better situated and constituted for performing the natural functions. The work is one of the most important in gardening, but, when the several habits and modes of fruit-bearing adopted by cultivated trees are understood, it is by no means difficult. Pruning is essential where trees have to be subjected to artificial treatment in a limited space, as in gardens generally, where, for example, a Plum-tree may be grown against a wall, or as a bush, pyramid, or standard. These shapes are produced by a combined system of Pruning and training to prepare trees for filling the several positions assigned them, and contributing a crop from one and all. There are several objects in Pruning, and the results attained vary exceedingly from the time and manner in which the work has been performed, and from other causes, some of which are beyond control. The thinning and removal of superfluous and useless shoots, with a view to admitting light and air, which are essential for insuring productiveness; the affording of encouragement towards promoting the formation of blossom-buds on branches hitherto barren; the modification of form in trained trees; the enlargement of fruit; the removal of dead, dying, or diseased branches, and many other such operations, may be cited as objects for which Pruning may be performed. One of the immediate effects of Pruning is to divert the course of the sap, which has hitherto been utilised by the branch removed, into others which are left; this causes them to strengthen and enlarge, which is one of the results generally aimed at. In the management of fruit-trees, the art of Pruning has a most important bearing, as, under artificial treatment, these have often to be cultivated in a limited space, and trained to a shape not in accordance with their natural habits. Again, on the system of management, in respect of thinning and removing the useless wood, and exposing that left to become well ripened, depends materially the state of the crops annually secured. The extent to which Pruning may with advantage be practised, depends very much on the subject under treatment, its rate of growth, and many other local circumstances. Some practitioners recommend a free, others a moderate, use of the knife; and others, again, use it as little as possible consistent with keeping their trees within bounds and preserving an evenly-balanced head. On a subject capable of such a wide and varied application, this is scarcely to be wondered at; and as different soils and localities have their own particular influence over the trees grown in them, so does the proper system of treatment vary somewhat in detail. Although hard Pruning is not here recommended, it is considered essential that the system must be moderately practised, and the work conducted with a view to preserving an equality and symmetry amongst the branches, which shall also, at the same time, promote vigour and fertility. Young trees are invariably disposed to produce more branches than space can be provided for. By thinning out those which are weak and misplaced, additional nourishment is supplied to the others, which may be allowed to develop, and remain almost, or quite, their full length. Where the system of training to be adopted cannot be commenced because of the shoots being improperly disposed, Pruning must be resorted to, and the sap thereby caused to flow more freely where it is required. If a young fruit-tree can be grown on without much cutting, until it arrives at a bearing state, it has, usually, much cleaner and healthier branches, which, of course, are more favourable to fruit-production than others developed under a system which involves frequent amputation, however much this may be necessary in training to a desired shape. The seasons when Pruning is most generally practised are summer and winter, summer Pruning being conducted at various times through the summer, and winter Pruning principally in December, January, and February. By adopting a proper system of summer pinching and stopping, much good may result to the branches retained, from their being more exposed to light, and there will be less need of cutting severely in the winter. When branches are allowed to grow at will, particularly towards the centre of a tree, they frequently become too vigorous for fruit-bearing themselves, and, by utilising the sap, render others unproductive. If attention to summer stopping in such cases is neglected, and the strong branches are removed at the next winter Pruning, it invariably happens that a difficulty arises in getting the flow of sap equalised, and the next spring others, even stronger shoots, start from the position where those of the previous year have been taken away. Summer Pruning then, in relation to permanent training, may be commenced so soon as the relative strength and position which the young shoots are likely to take, can be ascertained; it must be continued at intervals according to the subject under treatment and its natural mode of fruit-bearing. Trees that produce fruit on the short side branches, which are usually termed spurs, may be subjected to a course of summer Pruning, with a view to the production of those spurs furnished with blossom-buds. This work must not be performed before the shoots have reached a certain stage, else the buds at the base of the spurs left will develop into growth the same season, instead of remaining dormant, and forming themselves into fruit-buds for the next. July is generally the most suitable month: the wood is by that time partially solidified, and, if the leading branches are left unstopped, and there is a crop of fruit, most of the sap will be utilised. It not unfrequently happens that fruit-trees which bear on spurs become, from constant Pruning, too thickly furnished with them, and some get long and unfruitful. It is then best to cut some hard back at the winter Pruning, only leaving such as are properly situated. In most cases, other shoots will proceed the next year from near the place where the old spurs have been taken away, and these may, in due course, be subjected to similar treatment, and allowed to remain if there is sufficient space. The summer Pruning of fruit-trees which do not bear on spur branches is of an entirely different character. Apples, Apricots, Pears, and Plums--four of our principal fruits--bear more or less on spurs; but two others, also of great importance--Peaches and Nectarines--are usually managed so as to fruit on what is called young wood--that is, wood made during the previous year. Summer Pruning of these trees consists, therefore, in cutting out whatever wood is known to be useless, and in laying-in and encouraging new shoots to take its place. Disbudding may be considered a branch or part of Pruning, inasmuch as the young shoots removed thereby at an early stage have not to be taken out afterwards, and the full exposure to light, which is such an essential condition, is insured to the foliage of those that are allowed to remain. At the winter Pruning, all trees should be examined, but much less work will be required where proper attention has been bestowed through summer; indeed, the operator will readily see why each of the shoots has been preserved, and will understand which have been left with the intention of being taken out during winter. All weak wood may always be cut away, but attention should be given to leaving eyes, if possible, to furnish wood afterwards where it is required, that, starting afresh, will possibly be of a stronger description the next year. As a rule, fruit-trees are more inclined to become crowded than to be too thin, especially in and about their centres; this must be guarded against, or sunshine and air cannot get the admission and circulation essential for ripening both fruit and wood. All dead wood should be cut out at the winter Pruning, and the leaving of sterile and unripened wood or spurs carefully avoided. In Pruning young trees that are intended for training into any particular shape, their form must always be borne in mind, and the leading branches kept at about regular distances from each other. Trees that are full grown, and have reached their intended limits, are most easily pruned in winter, as they require similar restriction and cutting each year, with a removal of some of the spurs and branches when the latter become too numerous. Occasionally, different varieties of a particular fruit require altogether a different system of Pruning, as, for instance, Cherries. All the sweet varieties of these should be pruned on the spur system, while the Morello bears best on the long, young shoots. At the winter Pruning, therefore, all the latter should be allowed to remain, so far as space can be provided for them. See Cherry. Notes on Pruning the different fruits named may also be found under Currant, Fig, Gooseberry, Pear, Plum, Vine, &c. Peaches are dealt with under Nectarine. Apple-trees that have not attained full dimensions should have about 1ft. left on the tops of the leading branches at each winter Pruning, and some side branches should also be left where there is sufficient room for them to develop. Others not required may be cut back to form spurs; these, and clusters of buds, are the methods of fruit-bearing which the Apple adopts. Apricot-trees fruit mostly on strong spurs, which must, therefore, be preserved; all the leading shoots must be trained and nailed in, and the side growths cut back for forming spurs. Unfortunately, the branches of these trees are liable to die away, one after the other, until, sometimes, the whole tree goes. Such branches must be cut away, and new ones encouraged to fill up the space: the old ones are those which die off most frequently. Apricot-trees have invariably to be grown on walls; any spurs which get old, and project a long way out, should be gradually taken away at the winter Pruning. Root-pruning has a very important bearing in connection with top-growth and fruit-production; the two last named also often very materially depend on the sort of stock used for working upon. Some stocks are more fibrous-rooted than others, and are not so vigorous-growing--as, for instance, the Paradise and Quince stocks for the Apple and Pear respectively, in comparison with the Crab and wildling Pear. What was at one time performed, or attempted, solely by Pruning, is now much more readily attained, in these two important instances, by the use of stocks that favour a dwarf, pendulous habit, and great productiveness, instead of vigorous wood-growth, which seldom accompanies or precedes a fruitful habit. It is not, however, always desirable or practicable to cultivate trees on dwarfing stocks, and it is then that the effect of Root-pruning, when adopted, is most plainly marked. This operation is best performed in autumn, but it may be safely practised, under certain conditions, at almost any season, except during spring, and until the leaves have well expanded. No precise rules can be laid down as to when Root-pruning would be beneficial, but it usually proves so when fruit-trees make an over-luxuriant growth, and bear comparatively few blossom-buds. When practised in autumn, a trench should be dug out at a distance from the tree proportionate to its size; the soil may then be forked from the ball outwards, and the roots examined. If they are found long, and destitute of fibres, cutting off the leaders will induce them to produce small roots; and this will, doubtless, have the desired effect, eventually, of modifying and checking the top-growth in a corresponding manner, and also of increasing fertility. Top growth is regulated by that beneath ground, and the necessity for Top-pruning is reduced to a minimum when the main leading roots are prevented from taking a wide-spreading or downward course, without being properly furnished with a due proportion of others of a fibry description. The necessity for Root-pruning may therefore be judged from the appearance of a tree above ground; the operation is not, of itself, desirable, but is a valuable means to an end whereby moderate growth and productiveness, more or less permanent, may be insured.

The remarks already made on this subject have reference more especially to the management of fruit-trees; but there are endless other subjects among which Pruning may, with advantage, be enforced. Deciduous and evergreen forest and ornamental trees require frequent attention in order to keep them within proper limits, and induce them, particularly when young, to grow into shapes according to their habit, and the purpose for which they are required. Pyramid trees, for instance, generally need some Pruning to bring them into proper shape; and it is a frequent occurrence to find several leaders growing where there should only be one. Many evergreen shrubs, too, where they have to be kept within limits, need both summer and winter Pruning; otherwise, one would soon overgrow its neighbour, especially where some of a slow-growing and others of a fast-growing, nature are planted near each other. Summer Pruning amongst shrubs supplies almost constant employment, where shrubberies are extensive. When a severe cutting-back becomes requisite, as it sometimes does with Aucubas, Box, Laurel, Yew, &c., it should be attended to about April or May; the shrubs then soon recover. There are numerous subjects amongst indoor plants benefited by judicious Pruning, to which it is unnecessary to refer in detail; indeed, it would be impossible to name them from memory. Some have to be pruned hard back each year, and others only require thinning to admit air and light amongst their leaves, to assist in perfecting the foliage, flowers, or fruits, as the case may be.

PRUNING KNIVES, &c. Of the several instruments in use for Pruning, the Knife is most generally in request, and, as it can be used for various other purposes, few things are more requisite. Pruning Knives are made in various shapes, some being nearly straight in the blade, while others are curved and carried to a point. Proper Pruning Knives are fixed into strong buckhorn handles, and are provided with a sheath to hold them when not in use; but those most extensively used for Pruning are made to shut up in the usual way, which renders them more portable. Buckhorn handles are best, as, having an irregular surface, they afford a grip for the hand. For small shoots, a straight-edged blade is preferred, but with a curved blade the operator has more command over a large branch.

Besides a Knife, most useful instruments are small Pruning Shears, or Secateurs, and a Pruning Saw. There are various sizes and makes of the first-named in use, according to the size of the branches that are to be cut. Some have a movable centre, which causes them to draw and cut like a knife; others, very strong and well adapted for pruning Gooseberries, Roses, &c., are riveted together, and answer for the purpose most effectually. Pruning Saws are often required for removing branches that are too strong for the Knife or Shears. The blades are narrow, and somewhat like those employed for turning, and for cutting circular holes in boards; they are carried very narrow at the point, and may be introduced to cut off one branch without injuring another.